Kawasaki 150 KLX & D-Tracker choices 2012

Re. posts on the NOB thread (that I was starting to hog)...

What's this all about? Does this explain why I often think my clutch is slipping on slow steep/slippery hill bits? http://www.kawasaki.com.au/motorcycles/offroad/klx140l (Same clutch on 140L,125 and 150)

Progressive Manual Clutch
The clutch features a spring damper that facilitates half-clutch use when riding at low rpm or idling speeds.

A spring damper is utilized to provide two-stage clutch engagement that facilitates partial clutch use when riding at extremely low rpm or idling speeds.

KLX140L clutch parts diagram: http://www.powersportsplus.com/part...ycle/2011/KLX140BBF+KLX140L/CLUTCH/parts.html

The only part/part number different from the 125 and 150 is the clutch housing - but it looks exactly the same.
Well, guess it just means the first part of clutch use/movement is less sensitive.

So, figured I may be getting some actual slip. Last time I went at the clutch I saw the outside plate looked pretty frazzled, but wanted the thing back together so didn't bother about it. Will replace that tomorrow and see how it works then. Dropped the gearing to 13/50 also - so going to need a sorted clutch.

Come on fork springs!!!
Just a note... In case anyone ever wants to do similar.

As I mentioned before, in hindsight, seemed better idea to get the big bore and carb change, etc. done through Kawasaki - rather than taking it direct to Chiang Moi. That's a def now after the thing blew up - after loads of time spent trying to sort the carb when it seems the carb wasn't actually all of the problem. Got the bike back from Kawasaki today and reckon it's OK now. They've replaced what got knackered and fitted a PWK copy carb I got to use instead of the possibly dodgy PE copy carb Chiang Moi fitted. Will test at altitude tomorrow...

Looks like if I'd got Kawasaki to do the job in the first place then could have saved 15k+ and a load of time spent trying to fix it - and lots of missed rides. Kawasaki are reluctant to say what actually went wrong but can't see how I caused this. My guess is some problem with (lack of) sorting conrod/piston height re. valve clearance meant bad camchain tension, which then broke, which then ended up causing things to crunch up... But i don't have experience of this kind of job myself so only really know that some things were not right internally.

Just hope it's finally sorted now. Happy with everything else I've done to the bike - got the stronger fork springs at last and these are an improvement. This one job I couldn't do myself has been a right pain in the arse though!
No, scrap that - looks like it was my bad.

The 150 has lots of extra emissions stuff on it. The tank has 2 'vent' outlet pipes underneath it. As standard, these connect up to a fancy emissions kit with valves for air/vapour and fuel overflow in and out, purge tank, etc. Tricky to figure exactly how it all works and what goes where. Originally, I took off all the emissions stuff and just left both the pipes open. But this meant, if the bike went over, fuel pissed out. So, knowing the tank only needs 1 breather, I checked the pipes routes and blocked one. Think i also checked this with couple of them at chiang moi and kaw too... Seems I did the wrong one - which made engine run lean - which lead to a hard freeze. Fk. An expensive, time wasting, annoying mistake.

I'd still recommend going through kaw - at least unless your Thai is good and you know enough to check chiang mois work. If they'd of done my carb, pipes, air intake right in the first place, I maybe wouldn't have started messing with things so much.

Edit - here's a scan of the small diagram of this stuff that's in the owners manual. Frik knows exactly what's going on with the tubes inside the tank - can't see from the diagram so i just had to blow through them to see where they went. Both pipes vented the tank, one way or the other, so figured I'd just leave the biggest one open (the one on the right of the diagram). This one goes directly inside the upper part of the tank, the other goes up through the tank and into the cap - which seems to have a small vent to the tank below. Must be some sense for it all, I guess. Probably help if I could read the Thai.

Scan 1.jpeg
Got it. Sorted now. Apart from the tank breather vents in a crap place under the tank. Might be best to leave emissions stuff on with its valve system and air intake via airbox, or block all and fit a tank cap with an external breather. (This is what I meant to do - but got sent wrong one from Indonesia.) I tried to bodge around the various problems - but, unfortunately, looks like I fkd it. The emission system causes the hassle. How much pollution from fuel vapor is that kit actually going to stop??? Fk all, I'd have thought.
When my arm's better, will definitely put the emissions valve and piping back on. The bike was stalling when going down the slope with a full tank - possibly cos there's still not enough air getting into the tank as the small vent at the top was blocked by tilted fuel. This tank vent issue has caused enough trouble... I'll try drill the cap if still no good. Perhaps it's the carb now though... Fk sake. Wishing I'd got a different bike now - my experiment still hasn't got a result. (Freeride or WR250F??? :RE) Yep, a lightweight, local made, road legal, insurable bike is good - but only if you can ride it OK. Hopefully one last change will sort things out!

Stalling while trying to get down a bit of a tricky slope was too much for my hungover brain to deal with last time I was out - hence a pretty summersault. Was trying to engine brake down the slope with both feet on each side of rut for balance (crap, I know), with just the front brake on a bit. That was working OK but then bike wouldn't run even with clutch in - so couldn't do that... Should have either balanced in the rut and used rear brake or braked dead engine with clutch lever... But instead I tried to rush on and clutched in while just using the front brake - and that didn't work out too well. Doh. You live and you learn? Hmmm...
U want one phil? Sort of interested in a ktm if the new cm dealer can do parts and service at an ok price. Not sure about parts for the wr - guess Max knows.
Have got the carb and fuelling sorted now - put the PE28 back in. The suspension's much better also with a 10w/15w fork oil mix to suit the upgraded springs. But, had to take 10ml out of each fork from standard (well, should have been the standard amount of oil - Kawasaki changed it) to sort the ride. Way to much bounce-back before but seems OK now. Was going to get an WR250F, but will hold onto this for now... Been out playing and getting lost in the hills around CR... Good tracks!
I guess 75k is cheaper than the price for a 125, which was in my memories about 82k. From what I see, it seems to be a good reliable bike. 2 KLX-150 are less than 1 KLX-250
Fitted an EBC clutch kit - standard clutch is shite - and played with carb jetting. Bike is pretty sorted now - for what it is. Compared to the KLX250 or CRF250L - cost, weight, power, height, etc. - I'd definitely choose this modded KLX150 for trickier trail riding. For more dual-sport, faster trails use (or if I weighed more) the 250s would be better, I guess.

175cc big bore (Kawasaki Boss piston and barrel) fitted
KLX140 cam (higher lift)
KLX140 CDI (higher rev limit)
Keihin PE 28" carb copy (42 pilot, 122 main, needle on middle,
1&3/4 air screw)
Home Racing full exhaust system
Upgraded starter motor
Modified clutch basket to allow more oil flow
EBC clutch kit fitted
Modded airbox
21" / 18" steel rims with IRC enduro tyres
Extended steel swing arm (to allow bigger wheel)
2cm extending fork caps and modified front mudguard (to allow bigger wheel)
KLX 140 front brake pads
Upgraded front shock springs (33% stiffer - and changed fork oil to suit)
Rear back rack
Skid plate
Tail tidy
Changed to 13 front and 50 rear sprocket with Asahi chain
Hinged gear and brake levers fitted
Protaper SE bars + hand guards and grip sleeves

@120k B cost, @110kg wet, @87cm seat height, @28cm ground clearance.

I realise that this is an old post but I was wondering about how all your mods turned out in the end.
I'm in Bali and have the KLX150S with bigger wheels, slightly bigger Carb, upgraded CDI and exhaust. Unfortunately, due to a bad heart, I can't go off roading any more (nearly had a heart attack after carrying the bikes down a 50 degree slope in the jungle) and so I use the bike as a daily, with road tyres and smaller rear sprocket, etc. I'd still like to beef up the power, though, as I'm 6 foot tall and 80+ kgs.

I see that you used a Kawasaki Boss Piston & barrel with a KLX140 cam, Keihin PE 28" carb copy (42 pilot, 122 main, needle on middle, 1&3/4 air screw).

I know nothing of mechanics -- I have a hammer! :lol: -- but I'd like to know if the KLX140 cam is necessary or an option.

Also, here in Indonesia most guys use
kawahara bore up kit; is that any good in your opinion?

^ The KLX140 cam just lets it rev higher - with maybe a slight performance boost. It's not necessary, no.

They sell aftermarket performance cams for the KLX150 in Indo/Malay - not sure if the KLX140 parts are available. (You also need to fit an aftermarket CDI - available from Indo/Malay bike shops - to let it rev higher too.)

Know about the big bore kits - but don't know how good they are. I'd guess the Boss 175 parts aren't available there as the reason they don't do it that way... But not sure. (Think you can take the engine to about 200cc with a big bore and stroker cam.)

They've had the KLX150 for a while in Malaysia, Indonesia, Philippines - as the only cheapish bike to use off-road. So, they are far more knowledgable there than in Thailand about modding it.

Yup, I have an upgraded CDI.

I've heard that the mods up to 200cc make the engine run a little too hot, so I might look into a 185cc mod; it should get me to the shops a fraction faster :)
The new Kawasaki KLX 150 BF & KLX 150 SE (21" front, upside down forks & handguards)

2 new variants of the KLX 150 have been released recently:

Kawasaki KLX 150 BF SE is the top trim of the KLX 150 variants. Some intersting updates in this BF SE serie are the livery which is more sporty and dynamic, usage of upside down shocks at the front, usage of hand guard and engine guard, usage of fatbar and usage of black coloured alumunium feet with the diameter of 21 inch at the front and 18 inch at the back. Wow ! That's quite a proper appearance.


Next variant is kawasaki KLX 150 BF where the appearance is not far from BF SE. You still can see the upside down shocks, the wheels are also has the same diameters compared to the BF SE type. It's only the silver colour which makes it looks a little bit different, and also in this BF variant, there are no hand guard and engine guard. Even the livery looks more plain but brighter.


Next is Kawasaki KLX 150 basic which is the bottom trim from the KLX 150 series. Here, you won't see the upside down shocks and the huge wheels profile. The appearance is quite plain just like the old 150, only with different styling.For the wheels, this basic variant is also using alumunium rims. But at 19 inch at the front and 16 inch at the back.
For the price, Kawasaki put the price tag of IDR 30.9 million for KLX 150 BF SE, IDR 29.9 milion for Kawasaki KLX 150 BF, and IDR 26.8 million for Kawasaki KLX 150 basic. Lastly, noticing that there will be more competition in th market of this type of bike which could possibly turn the Blue ocean area of this market become red ocean area, this will give more options of this type of bike.

The mechanic at Kawasaki Chiang Mai told me he could do both bikes at 175 cc and the 125s FI system copes perfectly well with it so probably the better option
Thinking about putting a 175cc big bore kit on a new Kawasaki KLX 125cc because its fuel injected. The KLX 140cc is better set up but not road legal and no driving light, the 150cc is carb not FI so lots of messing around.

Review of the KLX 125 in the link below:


Will certainly be watching the project if you do it Phil. My little Offroad modded Sonic is a whole lot of fun but the KLX will be much much better.
Captain slash certainly swears by the old model , for getting around every where,,, I think the KLX models may be better than the Honda CRF

im looking at getting a 150-250 enduro for touring and getting around next year ,, light weight , tough and reliable are my requests
Kawasaki mechanic advises using the carb. KLX 150 for big bore conversion. He says if you have a problem it can be fixed anywhere unlike the 125 FI model. You can go as big as 220cc so far with the KLX 150, they use all Kawasaki original parts and a Honda carb. We shall see........
previous posts seem to suggest a couple of different variants available . Did you go with the 19 or 21 inch front Wheel ?
Anyone ordering a KLX 150 BF "Big Foot" in Chiang Mai, latest is that they will reach Chiang Mai in January 2016. They are assembled in Indonesia not Thailand.
The Kawasaki KLX 150 BF's arrived in Chiang Mai today (Kawasaki Sangchai Turakit), this is my one 87,500 Bht

P_20160128_133424.jpg by Triangle Golden 007, on Flickr

Kick start, 18 " & 21 " alloy rims, engine guard, lever protectors.

You can see the kick start clearly in this photo

P_20160128_133435.jpg by Triangle Golden 007, on Flickr

P_20160128_133450.jpg by Triangle Golden 007, on Flickr

220cc conversion should be finished in 3 days. The cheif mechanic at Kawa thinks the oil cooler to add extra oil capacity is a waste of time, lets hope he's right. Looks like the standard engine hold 1.3 liters of engine oil.

P_20160128_133501.jpg by Triangle Golden 007, on Flickr
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Re: Kawasaki 150 KLX & D-Tracker choices 2012

That's a really good deal for that machine. At that price, I can park one in CM for when I am there....
Re: Kawasaki 150 KLX & D-Tracker choices 2012

That's a really good deal for that machine. At that price, I can park one in CM for when I am there....

That's an excellent idea! One you should definitely act upon!

There's already a parking space reserved for it next to Niki's.
Starting the big bore 220cc modification on the Kawasaki KLX 150 "BF". Mechanic says the parts are different on the Indonesian assembled "BF" KLX 150 so more modifications needed.

1454249429968.jpg by Triangle Golden 007, on Flickr

1454249414771.jpg by Triangle Golden 007, on Flickr

Had to take it back again yesterday (I live in Chiang Dao!) as the starter motor and possibly the battery aren't up to the job now. Can't find room for a KLX250 starter so am having the standard starter motors internals upgraded.

For anyone planning to do similar, I'd recommend going through Kawasaki CM to do the job as, although I think they just send the bike down to Chiang Moi, I'd imagine Kawasaki will end up checking the bike and the mods better. There's a few at Kawasaki that seem to know modding the 140 well - think it's the boss there has got a 140 with custom bore and KX100 forks, etc.

Chiang Moi have been sloppy with checking / thinking about things which they should have been aware of considering they've done this mod plenty before.

Any ideas on the weight I'd save switching from steel rims and swingarm to ally? Will have to get my bike weighed...
The converted Kawasaki KLX 150 with the 220cc big bore kit is completed. Total conversion cost with Honda carb. 34,000 Bht.


Starts easy, has a fuel gauge, need to figure out the fuel range.

Interested to know how quickly it gulps fuel with that carb.

Keep a good check on its oil level Phil as mine uses lots in mountainous areas where it gets revved hard, here in Mae Sot on the flatter terrain it doesn't seem to use any
Good to know Colin, will check the oil tomorrow when I get back ... I thought the height would be an issue but not so high (& the tires are 30 psi)
Over 1,000 km, mostly off road on the Kawasaki KLX 150 BF, with the 220cc conversion now.

It does use oil when ridden hard all day in first and second gear. Not much but say 150ml in a day, so every day you need to check the engine oil. Front suspension is a disaster, bottoms out in the most normal obstacles, this is priority to fix. Rear Ohlin is coming 9,000 Bht a bargain.

Fuel economy. This bike has been messed with big time, 220cc big bore, cams, exhaust & huge Honda carb. This doesnt come at a cost. It looks like this bike now gets low 20's km to the liter when ridden hard. 7.3 liter tank, you are looking for fuel every 100km.

RIMG3779 by Triangle Golden 007, on Flickr

RIMG3778 by Triangle Golden 007, on Flickr
Shame about the front Suspension. Is the setup much different to the KLX250 ? .... I have Ohlins springs in mine and they a lot firmer than Stock. I just wonder if they would fit the 150 forks !?
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