Cambodia 2022

Wuming

Active member
Joined
Dec 12, 2021
Location
London
Bikes
Yamaha T700. Honda CRF250Rally.
Hello all and thanks for the add.
I am planning to travel to Cambodia in January (Covid permitting) for a few weeks and want to rent a bike to travel the country.
I'm after a CRF250L (or similar). So, a few questions:
1. Any first hand recommendations for a reliable/reasonable rental company (ideally in Phnom Penh, but Siem Reap would also work).
2. Bike insurance: is this available to a tourist renting a bike? Where would I get it?
3. Licence. I've read conflicting information on this. Is it really necessary or will an IDP be sufficient?
4. Anything else I should be aware of?
Many thanks in advance.
 
Welcome aboard. A few thoughts... post Covid, I suspect that what's gone before may be different. I can't help with a rental company, as I've had my own bike on my trips there - and as I recall it, in Siem Reap, they wanted people to go on tours rather than rent. I have a good contact there for tours, but not rentals. I think Phnom Penh may be different - but first we have to see which businesses survived the last two years.

Victory motorcycles seem to be still active on Facebook - and they appear to have offroad bikes... but they talk of holding passports for deposit or 70% the value of the bike. Hmmm.

Bike insurance.... hmmm. Difficult. Here in Thailand, some rental companies offer it, but mostly that is self-insurance by them and not cheap. If you can find a travel insurance back home that covers you, it is probably better. It's worth noting that repair costs here are generally low. I had a CRF come back the other day with mangled gear lever and broken mirror mount. It cost the customer 200 baht - under five pounds. Would have been 320 baht, but we could straighten the gear lever. There's other companies though that will charge for every scratch.

Licence - bring your home country bike licence AND an IDP (International Driving Permit).

It's an interesting country to ride in (but I still prefer Northern Thailand).
 
Cheers mate.
If all goes to plan; I will be coming to Chiang Mai on this trip as well. Are you the guy who took over from Phil at Riders Corner? (Sorry, been out of the loop for quite a while!). If I get there, I will come and see you about renting a bike.
 
Lucky! Lucky! on Monivong Blvd in Phnom Penh should still be in business, though their bikes tend to be older, a little worn or not in the best state of repair. That stated, I've never encountered any issues. Do a solid inspection when you first pick up a bike and it helps to have some mechanical know how, in case you break down somewhere in the middle of nowhere.

Cambodia seems to be wide open domestically, so January should work. Personally, I'd prefer to wait things out a little longer as it's still not "normal" yet, but we seem to be getting there.

Cambodia is rather flat with the exception of the south-western Cardamon mountains area in Pursat and Koh Kong provinces. A good ride is from Pursat down to the Thai border along highway 55 through the Phnum Samkos wildlife sanctuary, taking in the nice vistas and hairpin turns up and down the mountains ending at Thmor Da, on the border opposite Trat (even during normal times, this is not an international border crossing, but may be turned into one in the future). Gradients are moderate compared with northern Thailand, central/northern Vietnam or Laos though. The other highlands area is the north-eastern Mondulkiri province, but that's more of a high plateau than a true mountainous area.
 
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Thanks for the advice blackwolf. I'll check out those routes.
 
I've used Angkor Motorcycle three of my five loops in and around Cambodia. Nice people, excellent English, easy to find, motorcycles were OK (250 XR and Baja), but not new. I remember the owner telling me they had about 60 at their warehouse. Lucky Lucky and Angkor Motorcycle seemed to be the major rental players in Phnom Penh.

The first time I rented from them they held my passport for security for the 10 days. 2nd and 3rd time I seemed to be a trusted client, so the passport was not required. I suppose a wad of $100 bills would suffice versus passport being held (worked at another rental shop).

I carried in my own helmet (they had loaners/rentals), tools, windscreen, soft side panniers, bungee straps and most important for long days on the Honda seats, an Airhawk seat. My last rental was $25 USD per day plus $2 per day for insurance - and they accepted US Dollars.

I agree with Blackwolf, things are currently fluid and Cambodia still had a significant taste of The Wild West when I was last there. Once you experience the traffic and road rules (or lack of application thereof) you'll know you are no longer "in Kansas, Toto."

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Dr G
Chief of the World Adventure Affairs Desk, CITY BIKE magazine, researching adventurous affairs around the globe
Adventure Strategy Columnist, MOTORCYCLE CONSUMER NEWS magazine
Professor of Motorcycle Adventure, SOUND RIDER magazine
Sole sexual survivor: www.greataroundtheworldmotorcycleadventurerally.com
 
Same types of bikes available at Lucky! Lucky! Mainly 250cc Bajas and some XRs. I would always go for a Baja. I don't believe they make them anymore, but they're a great classic.
 
Thanks. I'm looking at 4 potential renters:
1. Dara Motorcycle.
2. Cambodia motorbike rental.
3. Victory MotorBike.
4. Lucky Lucky.
There seems to be quite a disparity in rates between some of these; 'll go and have a look first to check the bikes over.
 
OK. I've got a very rough anticlockwise route from PP in my head (Monoroum, Ban Lung, Romkel, Siem Reap, Cardamom mountains, Kep). Any "must see" places (apart from the obvious) or, more importantly, "must ride" routes? Will have about 3 weeks riding time, possibly a bit more. Too little time? Too ambitious?
Cheers.
 
Cardamom mountains can be "interesting" - depending on where you are headed
 
"Interesting"........now I'm intrigued. How so?
Happy New Year to you all!
 
Have a look at this ride report... it gives you some idea of the Cardamoms area. Search Cardamoms on the forum and I'm sure you will find more

 
Quick question: what is the direct (ish) route like from Battambang to Pramaoy? Easy enough, or is the 55 via Krong Pursat recommended? Cheers.
 
Quick question: what is the direct (ish) route like from Battambang to Pramaoy? Easy enough, or is the 55 via Krong Pursat recommended? Cheers.

I haven't done that one, but zooming in on the satellite view, it looks like a pretty simple track that gets traffic. There's lots of branches off it, which indicates usage.
 
Well: visa approved and plane ticket bought. So, Covid Shenanigans permitting, I should be arriving in PP on the 31st. And then on a bike soon after.
I will post the ride report here. Cheers for all the help and suggestions
 
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I arrived in PP a couple of days ago and have now sorted a bike (Honda Baja 250). Plan to hit the road tomorrow. Will try to update here as I go.
 
Great! Looking forward to reading your report.
 
After a hearty breakfast and messing around getting the bike loaded up (an ongoing process which needs refining......I've got too much stuff!), I finally set off a little before noon. The advantage of this was the relatively light traffic at that time which gave me chance to get used to the driving style here. Which is best described as "chaotic", but it seems to work.





After getting out of town, I followed what passes for a motorway for a while before turning off to follow the smaller roads which curve along with the Mekong to Kampong Cham. The road condition so far has been much better than expected. I have a memory (probably distorted) of taking the road from Siem Reap to the Thai border at Poipet many, many years ago and it was a hard packed dirt road. Did I imagine that? Or am I just very old? Anyway, I sure there are poor roads to come.

Just a few hours, a short days ride to acclimatise. But it was fun, especially on the smaller local roads where everyday life unfolds before you like a National Geographic documentary.



Kampong Cham on the banks of the Mekong, seems a nice enough place; had a wander around town. Went to see the famous bamboo bridget (now a tourist attraction rather than a working bridge; foot traffic only). Just a one night stop before heading East towards Vietnam (although I cannot enter there).










Second day on the road started with a bridge over the Mekong, leaving the river behind as I headed East. Passing rubber tree plantations in the heat and dust, the bike plodded along, rarely breaking 60kph as we rolled through the flat landscape. The occasional bend in the road or small incline doing little to quicken the pulse (the crazy drivers did that!).

A squadron of BMW 1200GS thundered past in tight formation at one point, silver boxes glistening in the sun. Must have been on a bombing raid somewhere. I thought about trying to keep up for a nanosecond before realising that if I did catch up, I'd have to talk to them. Umm, no thanks.




Once beyond O-Am for the 60 or so km to Sen Monorom the road suddenly began to dip and wheel up and down and around the increasing hills. The baja suddenly started straining at the leash like a puppy with a new ball. The bike was transformed, the old dog still knew a few tricks.
Time for some fun!

All too soon, the town appeared round a bend, and we pulled into a guesthouse, the Baja wagging it's tail contentedly. Sen Monorom: I guess it must be pretty high up, as there is almost a chill in the air and a wind is blowing (just to remind of my wind-burned cheeks from today's ride). Only about 160 miles ridden today, but 6 hours on the road. I think I wouldn't want to do more miles in these conditions; it isn't a race after all.



 
Heading out of town with a gale blowing and dark clouds looming to the north where I was headed. Decided to take a detour to see the BouSra waterfall; good move. A nice twisty road to get there and a surprisingly impressive set of waterfalls. The clouds were dissipating too.





So, tourist box ticked, I headed back to route 76 to continue the journey up to Ban Lung. The road continued where it left off the previous day, the bike was happy. The BMW GS crew passed me again coming the opposite direction; one of them even returned my wave!!



An enjoyable ride, route 76 is a gem (especially for this corner of South East Asia), good surface, nice twisties (more so further south) and very little traffic. Quite remote as I would often spend tens of miles seeing no buildings, people or traffic. I was having so much fun that I'd not noticed how throttle happy I'd become; the bike sputtering to an unexpected halt. I'd run the tank dry; but the Baja was obviously thanking me for letting her loose on the 76 that she rolled to a petrol station with the last fumes left. Lucky.





Not so lucky, as Banlung hoved into view. I'm probably staying in the wrong area, because it is a bit run down and dull. The guesthouse I researched on the web which had rave reviews is actually a bit grim and not the cleanest. The final straw was the key broke as I tried to lock my door. Being very British, I hate complaining, but dirty room, broken key and no loo seat, I complained and was moved to a better room. Monorom was nice, I should have spent an extra day there. Oh well.

Made the mistake of spending the evening drinking Gansberg beer. This is advertised everywhere (and I mean EVERYWHERE!) in Cambodia, but this was the first time I'd actually seen it. This was to be Ban Lung's revenge for my unfavourable review.



It reappeared during the night, (what is the Cambodian version of Delhi belly?). So, a dilemma, do I want to spend another day in Ban Lung? (no), am I fit to ride? (debatable). A quick immodium and with clenched cheeks, I got on the bike and headed west. I was probably more dehydrated than I realised and I didn't eat or even have any appetite for the next 48 hours. But I felt fine on the bike; so I rolled through the burning landscape (I presume they are intended rather than wild fires??).

I crossed back across the Mekong again, before cutting north on a dirt road towards the Laos border. This was much more the road of my imagination when I was planning this trip.





Ended up just north of Preah Romkel, Laos visible across the Mekong. Very remote area, no wifi (eek!) and no English spoken. Got there early and pretty much slept most of the next 18 hours. Still no appetite, but otherwise OK.

 
Imodium??? Oh - no! If you really got the runs Ciprofloxacin is the medication you need…. Broad sprectred antibiotics that kills most germs.

Great trip report so far - keep em comin!💪
 
Cheers Snakeboy. The report is a few days behind. I'm all good now; the loss of appetite was the weirdest thing. Anyway, in Siem Reap now for some R&R. More reports to follow.
 
Well rested and refreshed (but with some seriously odd dreams and still no desire for food), I headed out early for a better vantage point over the Mekong. In this area, on the Laos side, it is apparently well set up for tourists with accommodation, bars and restaurants aplenty, not so the Cambodian side. Beautiful though and good to see it before it becomes awash with the tourist amenities I deplore (but also crave!!)

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Then it was back on the dirt roads for a while before continuing west for some culture. I had intended to visit the Preah Vihear temple the following day but I'd made good time. As I've got more used to the riding conditions and the idiosyncrasies of the Baja, I'm covering more ground in less time. So a chance to stretch my legs and see the disputed temple.

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Both the Thais and Cambodians lay claim to this site and conflict between the 2 nations has erupted here in the past over who owns it. Peaceful now though and a very worthwhile visit. The twisty, alpine like road up to the temple perched on the cliff top is worth the entrance money alone (US€10). The temple is around 1000 years old (I think?) and is largely in a state of ruin although the site is well looked after and their are ongoing efforts to preserve it.

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Superb views back over into the flat lands of Cambodia at the back of the temple.

Spent the night in Sra-aem then headed out early ish for Siem Reap. The bike was running a bit odd, stuttering at low revs; feels like a fuelling issue; could be the carb., could be the throttle cable needs adjusting, clogged air filter, spark plug(?). Runs fine when cruising at speed, but drop the revs and drop a gear and it just isn't quite right. I really should have more mechanical knowledge. Oh well. Otherwise an uneventful run. The white line fever taking hold: the destination becoming the focus rather than the ride. Bad dog.

Once in Siem Reap, I took the bike to Mainteance Garage and Services on Concrete Drain Rd. (how do they think up these exotic names??). The place is run by a French guy with local mechanics. Turned out to be dirt clogging the carburetor (I think?); all cleaned out and with an extra in line fuel filter installed, bike was as good as new. The guy even commented on how good the engine was considering the age of the bike. For $15 (including oiling and adjusting the chain; I really should have brought at least the basic tools!) an absolute bargain. Highly recommended place.

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I was last in Siem Reap too many years ago to remember exactly; it is BIG now. I don't recognize anything. I recall it being relatively small and "quaint", with a few restaurants/bars dotted around and a really relaxed, quiet atmosphere. I don't want to be "that guy" who says "I remember when this was all fields...". But....... It is still quiet, this time due to Covid (many, many places appear to have closed down; an all to obvious sign of the economic devastation of the pandemic). Fully open, it looks like it could be the Cambodian Khao San Road (.....oh....the horror.....!!!). Industrial scale nightlife.

Anyway, a few days R&R in Siem Reap; time to play tourist for a while (keeping my alter ago as intrepid world traveller adventurer under wraps........if the sarcasm isn't obvious, it IS implied).

Edit. Don't know why some of the photos are the wrong way up? I'm not very technical. Also, this is pretty much cut and pasted from a blog I'm doing for my family; so some of the stuff will be obvious to people on this forum. No condescension intended.
 
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Well, I rotated the ones that need it... but apparently there's another step I need to take somewhere
 
Visiting the Preah Vihar temple from the Cambo side seemed like a real treat.
I actually visited the temple from the thai side back in 2003, but it would have been much cooler and «correct» to visit it from the Cambo side.
Great photos and trip report!
 
The temple near the Lao border looks like the one I've visited several times on day trips from the Lao side. It's on the way to the Cambodian side of the Khonkhanpeng falls, called "Sopheakmit falls" in Cambodia. It's an 8km drive along the Cambodian side of the border from where the boat from Laos drops you off at. No passport or visa is needed for Cambodia if coming this way (during normal times). A very lovely area and one I hope to explore again post-Covid, this time entering Cambodia formally.
 
BTW Wuming, can you explain how you took a picture from the Lao side? Is that an old photo from before Covid? I can't imagine how you would have gotten into Laos at this time.

Like I mentioned in my previous reply, it was possible to enter Cambodia on a day trip informally from Laos pre-Covid. I've done it at least 3 times that I can recall, twice on my own, and the most recent time (December 2019) with a bunch of friends.

Even if it "looks OK" now I would highly recommend against it, and I don't think any boat driver would be taking the risk during the current emergency situation. Later this year once Covid becomes endemic, then it might once again be possible again.
 
BTW Wuming, can you explain how you took a picture from the Lao side? Is that an old photo from before Covid? I can't imagine how you would have gotten into Laos at this time.

Like I mentioned in my previous reply, it was possible to enter Cambodia on a day trip informally from Laos pre-Covid. I've done it at least 3 times that I can recall, twice on my own, and the most recent time (December 2019) with a bunch of friends.

Even if it "looks OK" now I would highly recommend against it, and I don't think any boat driver would be taking the risk during the current emergency situation. Later this year once Covid becomes endemic, then it might once again be possible again.
As far as I'm aware, I never strayed into Laos. All photos taken in Cambodia in the last week or so. I did get to a checkpoint a bit further down the track, but that was just to sell me a ticket for something (I'm guessing the falls??). I thought the river marked the border and I never crossed it in this area. Really nice round there, and when we get post Covid, I will explore the Laos side.
Cheers.
 
The old khmer temple Preah Vihear is on the border between Cambodia and Thailand and a good bit away from Laos.

Temple of Preah Vihear

Its been quite disputed up through the years and even quite recently soldiers have been killed in battle there.

 

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I thought he meant the little (modern) temple up on the Mekong; further east than Preah Vihear??
 
I thought he meant the little (modern) temple up on the Mekong; further east than Preah Vihear??
He probably did - but you never went there or posted photos from there afaik…?
 
As far as I'm aware, I never strayed into Laos. All photos taken in Cambodia in the last week or so. I did get to a checkpoint a bit further down the track, but that was just to sell me a ticket for something (I'm guessing the falls??). I thought the river marked the border and I never crossed it in this area. Really nice round there, and when we get post Covid, I will explore the Laos side.
Cheers.
OK, so like I thought in my original reply, that is the border road on the Cambodian side, opposite Laos. The temple is the one on the way to the waterfall, which I've stopped off at.

Yes, the checkpoint further down is to sell you a ticket for the waterfall, which costs USD 2. This can be paid in USD, Lao Kip or Khmer Riel (maybe also Baht).

Indeed the river marks the border at this point (except further east, at the actual land border crossing, where the river goes down into Cambodia).
 
Anlung Chheutal is where the boat from Laos (Don Khon or Veun Kham) drops you off. Then you take a motorcycle taxi or a private car to the waterfall, and wherever you want in the local area. Really cool side trip from the 4000 islands and for those with limited time, it saves you a long trek from the land border crossing, which is a massive 128km away by road on the Cambodian side, but a mere 15 minute boat ride from Veun Kham on the Lao side!

Anyway, this is my recommendation for those who don't have time to explore the northern part of Cambodia like you are but would still like to get a taste of the region. Also, for those riding through Laos but are finding it difficult to get into Cambodia on their bikes.

The key is - one should enter from Thailand through O'Smach and then exit into Laos at Nong Nokkien (4000 islands). Don't come the other way, as the Cambodian border guards will make your life difficult and either refuse you, or force you to travel by taxi or bus down to Phnom Penh to get a permit then come back to retrieve your bike. Not worth it. Always enter Cambodia from Thailand then exit for Laos, not the other way round.

I'm quite sure that post Covid (meaning later this year most likely) once land borders fully reopen, the customs regulations for each country will revert to the pre-Covid status quo, hence I'm not expecting Cambodian customs to suddenly welcome bikes (or even cars) coming in from Laos.
 
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Crossing from Laos into Cambodia

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That's ten years ago though.. and the new magnificent border structures were not quite finished. There's tales about that crossing that can only be told over a beer. No payments made, no ramifications... but, let's say, I wouldn't do it like that again.
 
WARNING: this update has nothing bike related!

So, a few days out of the routine of eat, sleep, ride repeat. Back in tourist central; but tourists are few and far between. Most of the foreigners here (at least that I've spoken to) are expats: an exotic menagerie of misfits, chancers, deadbeats and alcoholics. I really must start drinking in better quality bars.........

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Had an abortive ride out to see Tonle Sap, the massive lake in the middle of Cambodia. I was stopped a couple of kms or so from the lake to be told I couldn't ride the rest of the way as the road was too dangerous and flooded (despite the 8 year old kids riding 5 up on scooters sailing past). I would have to take the boat the rest of the way, it would only cost me $25 (gawd bless 'em for trying!!). Lake unseen, a quick U-turn and I was headed back to Siem Reap to buy my day pass for the Angkor Wat complex. Currently doing a 2 day pass for the price of a 1 day. All I need to do is get up early enough to use it.

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Two full days of temple hopping, the "big" and "little loops" and Banterei Srei. Decided to hire a tuk tuk for the duration; partly so I didn't have to carry my lid and worry about the bike safety while in the temples, but also as I felt compelled to try and help the local economy a bit (other than the bars...!) Covid has decimated the tourist industry here.

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So many temples, but the real standout was Ta Phrom (the "tomb raider" temple). Beautiful, with the jungle noises hanging in the air and the trees devouring the ancient stone like a relentless alien life form.

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Easy to get trapped in Siem Reap; an abundance of sights to see and bars to try. But, I need to tear myself away; this is a bike trip after all.

Sorry again, I don't know why I can't correct the rotation on some of the photos??
 
I've rotated the errant ones for you. It's a weird quirk - am I right in thinking you are posting from an Apple?

They still show as not being rotated for me unless I use another browser or an incognito one, presumably to do with caches.... but, they're done
 
Cheers bigfella. No, I'm using Android on an old Samsung.
I've had my Thai Pass approved, so when I make it to Chiang Mai next month, I'll drop by Riders Corner and shout you a beer.
 
Evening all. Any Baja 250 riders out there who can offer advice? The bike has been stuttering when you put the revs on after changing gears. You have to rev it quite hard to stop the stuttering. It is fine when cruising at speed, but lower speeds cause the stuttering. I had the carb removed, stripped and cleaned, but it has made little difference. It runs fine generally, but just feels like the fuelling isn't right. Any ideas?
Cheers
 
Plug failing? How's the air cleaner?
 
The day before I left Siem Reap; I took the bike out for a quick spin to check all was OK (having not ridden for a few days). The same problem was back, the stuttering when dropping the revs. Took it back to the same place, who told me to come back the next day.

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So, the next morning, loaded up I went back at the allotted time. The French guy was there, tinkering away at various bikes with a spliff permanently attached to his lips. No mechanic yet, but he was summoned as Monsieur Spliff set about dismantling my bike. My confidence was ebbing; but then the actual mechanic arrived and set to work. Removed, stripped and cleaned the carb, adjusted the valves, did something to the air/fuel mix. Nearly 3 hours later, it was ready to go!

I took it for a quick test ride; seemed OK. So I hit the road and headed west. Hadn't gone too far and the old problem was back. Bugger!!! Well, maybe a bit better. I think it is something I will have to live with, the bike still runs, she just gets a bit breathless at times. Poor thing. Give me a fuel injected bike any day.

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An uneventful run to Battambang. I was originally going to do a detour to visit the Banteay Chhmar temple; but after Siem Reap I am all templed out. I'll save that for a future trip.

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Battambang seems good. Very quiet and laid back after Siem Reap, and my liver needs a break. Staying in the old French part of town; the historic colonial buildings decaying at a slower pace the old historic expats who still haunt the place.

My itchy feet (literally, damn mosquitoes!) compelled me to stay only one night before heading south to the Cardamom mountains. My destination was Praramoy and there were a couple of choices of routes; the highway, or the back roads. Easy choice. Good choice.

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As soon as I turned off the main road, the traffic thinned to almost nothing, the view improving as the mountains began as a smudge on the horizon. I was expecting this route to be largely dirt, but the empty tarmac just kept on coming. Eventually there was a 15km or so stretch of dirt road, but after that, it was largely back to the tarmac. Really enjoyable ride today, one of the best on this trip so far. Most of the main highways in Cambodia are pretty dull: straight roads through flat land. Hitting the back/dirt roads is where the fun is to be had.

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Rain. I arrived reasonably early as the road conditions were better than expected, so I checked into a hotel, had a feed and then decided to explore route 55 towards the Thai border. Rain, lots of it. Waited it out for a while, it eased and I jumped on the bike and headed west. Didn't get too far. Rain. This is another on the "to do list" next time. It's raining now. This could make the trip over the Cardamom mountains tomorrow "interesting". Heavy rain on dirt roads in the mountains. Hmmm

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