Lone Rider
Blokes Who Can
Last week I was off-again on one of my regular trips to collect information and checking up on my maps for North Thailand
Left quite early as it was planned to be a long day so the junction of Rd 107 with the 121 was almost deserted
Lots of trees flowering along the roads
Doi Chiang Dao
Wat Dok Muang Kham in Chiang Dao
Last year on another north Thailand trip I visited Wat Phrathat Doi Mon Ching and at that time they were building what looked like to be a replica of the Golden Mount in Myanmar - so I pottered up the mountain again but alas no progress at all but still beautiful views over the valley
As I am interested in the history of the fights against the communists here in Thailand in the seventees, and in particular the role the Kuo Min Thang played in these battles, I made a stop at the former headquarters of the 3rd regiment (army) of the Kuo Min Thang.
Entrance to the former Headquarters of the 3rd Regiment
The parade grounds and some of the barracks
Mules were important then and now as then there were very few roads and at present they are still being used to transport crops from the fields, etc.
Met by chance Ms. Lee Jian Yuan who is the eldest daughter of General Lee Wen Huan (also known as Chawiwan Chaisiri). Ms. Lee explained quite a few things to me and let me freely roam around the premises.
There are still a few of the original buildings standing but most of them now serve other roles. For instance, the political school of the KMT has been transferred to the Education Department and is now home of the Santivana school.
A picture of a picture from when the area was still home of the 3rd Regiment - at the time they were organizing a basketball competition
Troops getting ready to do battle at Doi Phatang (1970)
The Headquarters and the Meeting room of the 3rd Regiment in 2013
The old gate in front of the building which contains the memorial with the names of the high ranking officers who died during battles
At that time there were no bricks available, so all the buildings were built out of a clay/straw mixture and then plastered to make it more or less waterproof
The whole area was taken care of by the KMT (the 3rd Regiment was having some 40 villages In Chiangmai, Chiangrai and Mae Hong Son under its control) and quite a few of the hillsides are dotted with Chinese grave sites
The tomb of General Lee Wen Huan in Ban Mai Nong Bua (the general died in 2000)
Picture of part of the Eulogy given by Lt. General Pornprasert Julsawek at the funeral of General Lee Wen Huan. General Pornprasert was the Director of Headquarter 04 which was in charge of combating the communists and Commanding Officer of Special Force 327
This eulogy was quite telling for me as it is one of the few instances where the input of the KMT in Thailand's affairs is acknowledged. At most other places in memory of these battles like the Army Museum in Chiang Kham, the role of the KMT is barely mentioned or is at best being downplayed.
After this visit to Ban Tham Ngob and Ban Mai Nong Bua I headed for Doi Mae Salong. This village was the headquarters of the 5th Regiment led by General Tuan Shi Wen (sometimes written as Duan Ce Wen but also known by his Thai name of Chiwan Khamlue). A few years ago the Chinese Martyr Museum was built here to commemorate the role of the KMT in Thailand.
Mules of the Thai Army on the road to another closed border post between Thailand and Myanmar. This dirt road leads to Mong Hsat (Mueang Sat) in Myanmar
New wat built along road 1089 to Doi Mae Salong and the views from the temple area
A statue of General Tuan Shi Wen at the Martyrs Museum and the tomb of the general who died in 1980 near the Doi Mae Salong Resort
The Chinese Martyrs Museum in Doi Mae Salong. (The formal name of Doi Mae Salong is Santikhiri meaning the "Hill of Peace" but everyone still refers to the place as Doi Mae Salong)
Chinese Shrine next to the Martyrs Museum
Unfortunately, there was no one here who could explain things (most of the displays were in Chinese and/or Thai language) so just took some pictures.
A maquette of the battlefield of the Doi Pha Mon, Doi Yao and Doi Luang ranges (southeast of Chiangkhong) where the KMT did quite a few battles on behalf of the Thai Government
The map showing the route (the KMT long march) taken from Yunnan to Mong Hsat in Myanmar by the remnants of the Nationalistic Army (the KMT under Chiang Kai-shek) in blue and in red the route taken by the Communist Army - now known as the People's Liberation Army or PLA (under Mao Tse Tung)
The Thai Royal Family is being held in high esteem by the KMT
On my way back I had a quick look at the Phra Museum. Had seen this name on the map and was not sure what to expect but once there the signpost indicated it was a museum of Buddha Statues - sorry no pictures as that was not allowed and I was closely guarded by one of the menders, so just a brief description. Had to part with an entrance fee of 200 Baht and had expected a nice display of the statues but, once inside the large building which looked more like a warehouse, there along all the walls were just 2 rows of statues which, according to my untrained eyes, looked like they had been put down rather haphazardly. Bit of a downer at the end of a good and "productive" day looking for info on the KMT in Thailand.
The Phra Museum in Ban Bo Kang on Rd. 1016
My original plan for this trip report was to include some of the history behind why/how remnants of the KMT ended up in the north of Thailand. However, at the end I decided against it as this is a motorbike related forum and not a history forum so it would be a bit out of "place" here - hope you don't mind.
Left quite early as it was planned to be a long day so the junction of Rd 107 with the 121 was almost deserted
Lots of trees flowering along the roads
Doi Chiang Dao
Wat Dok Muang Kham in Chiang Dao
Last year on another north Thailand trip I visited Wat Phrathat Doi Mon Ching and at that time they were building what looked like to be a replica of the Golden Mount in Myanmar - so I pottered up the mountain again but alas no progress at all but still beautiful views over the valley
As I am interested in the history of the fights against the communists here in Thailand in the seventees, and in particular the role the Kuo Min Thang played in these battles, I made a stop at the former headquarters of the 3rd regiment (army) of the Kuo Min Thang.
Entrance to the former Headquarters of the 3rd Regiment
The parade grounds and some of the barracks
Mules were important then and now as then there were very few roads and at present they are still being used to transport crops from the fields, etc.
Met by chance Ms. Lee Jian Yuan who is the eldest daughter of General Lee Wen Huan (also known as Chawiwan Chaisiri). Ms. Lee explained quite a few things to me and let me freely roam around the premises.
There are still a few of the original buildings standing but most of them now serve other roles. For instance, the political school of the KMT has been transferred to the Education Department and is now home of the Santivana school.
A picture of a picture from when the area was still home of the 3rd Regiment - at the time they were organizing a basketball competition
Troops getting ready to do battle at Doi Phatang (1970)
The Headquarters and the Meeting room of the 3rd Regiment in 2013
The old gate in front of the building which contains the memorial with the names of the high ranking officers who died during battles
At that time there were no bricks available, so all the buildings were built out of a clay/straw mixture and then plastered to make it more or less waterproof
The whole area was taken care of by the KMT (the 3rd Regiment was having some 40 villages In Chiangmai, Chiangrai and Mae Hong Son under its control) and quite a few of the hillsides are dotted with Chinese grave sites
The tomb of General Lee Wen Huan in Ban Mai Nong Bua (the general died in 2000)
Picture of part of the Eulogy given by Lt. General Pornprasert Julsawek at the funeral of General Lee Wen Huan. General Pornprasert was the Director of Headquarter 04 which was in charge of combating the communists and Commanding Officer of Special Force 327
This eulogy was quite telling for me as it is one of the few instances where the input of the KMT in Thailand's affairs is acknowledged. At most other places in memory of these battles like the Army Museum in Chiang Kham, the role of the KMT is barely mentioned or is at best being downplayed.
After this visit to Ban Tham Ngob and Ban Mai Nong Bua I headed for Doi Mae Salong. This village was the headquarters of the 5th Regiment led by General Tuan Shi Wen (sometimes written as Duan Ce Wen but also known by his Thai name of Chiwan Khamlue). A few years ago the Chinese Martyr Museum was built here to commemorate the role of the KMT in Thailand.
Mules of the Thai Army on the road to another closed border post between Thailand and Myanmar. This dirt road leads to Mong Hsat (Mueang Sat) in Myanmar
New wat built along road 1089 to Doi Mae Salong and the views from the temple area
A statue of General Tuan Shi Wen at the Martyrs Museum and the tomb of the general who died in 1980 near the Doi Mae Salong Resort
The Chinese Martyrs Museum in Doi Mae Salong. (The formal name of Doi Mae Salong is Santikhiri meaning the "Hill of Peace" but everyone still refers to the place as Doi Mae Salong)
Chinese Shrine next to the Martyrs Museum
Unfortunately, there was no one here who could explain things (most of the displays were in Chinese and/or Thai language) so just took some pictures.
A maquette of the battlefield of the Doi Pha Mon, Doi Yao and Doi Luang ranges (southeast of Chiangkhong) where the KMT did quite a few battles on behalf of the Thai Government
The map showing the route (the KMT long march) taken from Yunnan to Mong Hsat in Myanmar by the remnants of the Nationalistic Army (the KMT under Chiang Kai-shek) in blue and in red the route taken by the Communist Army - now known as the People's Liberation Army or PLA (under Mao Tse Tung)
The Thai Royal Family is being held in high esteem by the KMT
On my way back I had a quick look at the Phra Museum. Had seen this name on the map and was not sure what to expect but once there the signpost indicated it was a museum of Buddha Statues - sorry no pictures as that was not allowed and I was closely guarded by one of the menders, so just a brief description. Had to part with an entrance fee of 200 Baht and had expected a nice display of the statues but, once inside the large building which looked more like a warehouse, there along all the walls were just 2 rows of statues which, according to my untrained eyes, looked like they had been put down rather haphazardly. Bit of a downer at the end of a good and "productive" day looking for info on the KMT in Thailand.
The Phra Museum in Ban Bo Kang on Rd. 1016
My original plan for this trip report was to include some of the history behind why/how remnants of the KMT ended up in the north of Thailand. However, at the end I decided against it as this is a motorbike related forum and not a history forum so it would be a bit out of "place" here - hope you don't mind.
