Recky tour - Chiang Mai to the Tibet border / Kawa Karpo at 6,740 meters (22,113')

Might be going nowhere today


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Rainy lunch in the middle of nowhere. ...but its busy (important) & looks dam good.

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One of the best meals of the trip so far


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The next installment from Reed:



Dateline: Wednesday, May 29, 11 p.m. Post #3

Welcome to the "Shangri-La Here We Come" Blog.

Present location: Mojiang, Yunnan Province, China.
Today's distance: 380 kms.
Driving (moving) time): 4:21
Moving average: 87 kph.

Tomorrow destination: Kunming
Approximate distance: 300 kms.?
Guesstimate driving time: 6 hours?

If you are wondering why I am not sure about the distances and driving time for tomorrow, it all depends if the police allow our mcs on the highways or if they force us to take local roads. So far so good and it was highway all the way today.
For those of you who noticed that today's destination is not the same place I mentioned in yesterday's post, this is because we got off to a late start.

Phil Gibbins is taking a ton of photos, way more than me, and he is posting them online. You can view them at the following url:
http://www.rideasia.net/motorcycle-...-karpo-6-740-meters-22-113-a-2.html#post29354

Now for the real post………………

Hello interested parties.

To say I'm having a great time is an understatement.
To say that the roads and the riding are fantastic is an even bigger understatement.
To say that I am not loving every minute I'm in the saddle of the F800GS would be the height of ludicrousness.

Yesterday was great but somehow today was even better. We got off to a late start (around 11:30) because we had to go to a very crowded police station in Mengla to have a couple of cops glance at our vehicles and thump their all important red stamps onto a dozen more documents. Our paperwork collection is now around 3 inches thick.
The police took their sweet time with us but finally let us depart.

The morning road was a two-lane dual carriage way that wended its way through the foothills of the Himalaya mountain range. The road was in excellent condition and traffic was very light.

Unlike Thailand, where the Thais build their roads up and down each and every ridge in a never-ending series of switchbacks (which certainly is a lot of fun on a bike and I am not complaining), the Chinese, on the other hand, just bore a big hole through the interfering landmass. Today we drove through I would guess around 40 tunnels. The shortest ones were a couple of hundred meters in length, but the longest was 3.2 kms. It was tricky driving through them because, except for the real long ones, they were not lit, and with the headlights of oncoming traffic blasting our eyes, it was extremely difficult visibility. All of the tunnels were dead straight, but suddenly one we entered had a curve in it that I was not ready for and it really spooked me because I was not sure how to handle it, how tight it was, nor did I know which way it was curving or where to look. After this the tunnels with curves became more frequent but Phil and myself now knew how to deal with them.

Even with all the tunnels, the road was extremely curvaceous, and consisted of nice, high-speed curves, nothing vicious or nasty. A few sections of roadway, when we hit a long valley, were dead straight and dead flat, and I was able to cruise for minutes at a time at 160 mph +.
In general we cruised at 120-125 kph for most of the ride. This was a sweet spot for the Beemers, and at that speed the tach pointed to 5000 rpm; the mcs purred in ecstasy.

Looking at my gps track we climbed up and over nine mountain ranges and topped out at 1,550 meters above sea level. Most of the ride we stayed above 1000 meters. Temperature was perfect for man and machine. Sky was overcast but not a drop of rain.

Around 1:30 we stopped for an excellent lunch in a roadside town. I have photos and descriptions of all the dishes and will fit them into a later post. And while we are on the subject of food, dinner was also exceptional. Having lived in Hong Kong for 5 years with extensive travels inside China (but not Yunnan), most of the dishes and flavors I encountered today were new to me.

Soon after lunch we reached a junction on AH3 (Asia Highway 3), It turned into a 4-lane divided dual carriageway with exits and entrances spaced around 15 km apart. The road engineering was perfect and probably as well built, smooth, and perfectly maintained as any road in any Western country. There were no cracks, bumps, or potholes, nothing at all that could throw off the handling of our bikes. I am in awe of how great these roads are. Thailand's roads are light years behind. A Porsche or Ferrari could eat these roads up. But will these type of roads continue for the remained of the trip? For how long?
We shall see.

If there are any twins in your life, they probably know all about where we are staying tonight, Mojiang, because every year this city hosts the world's largest convention of twins. Mojiang got into this game because this region of China, for some inexplicable reason, has the highest percentage of multiple births on earth. Our hotel lobby is festooned with photos of twins in this festival. I think it is in April and would probably be a lot of fun, twin or not.




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More twins


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The mountains south of Kunming


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We found this great hotel in Kunming in the center of town for a reasonable rate including a basic Chinese breakfast. No English writing anywhere, it's a great deal.


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Cuìhú Gōngyuán / (Green Lake Park, Kunming)


With a day layover waiting for George to fly in from Hong Kong, we explored Green Lake Park on the NW side of Kunming city. It's a beautiful tranquil setting with shaded trees, all around are boutiques and coffee shops, a very affluent area for sure.


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A retired gentlemen flying kites 1km into the sky on very fine line to keep the weight aloft down


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The kites are so far up in the sky you can hardly see them with the naked eye

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A lady relaxing embroidering slipper inserts


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Not a bad place to hang out

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"The arts" are all around the park in the shade, these aren't street performers collecting money, just people enjoying themselves.



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Traditional dancing all around the park in the afternoons


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& even modern ballroom it seemed


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The Green Lake Hotel on the lake looked like it was probably one of the best hotels in Kunming


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Mr. R's latest post to his blog regarding our trip





Post #5
Dateline: Friday, May 31, 7 p.m.

Welcome to the “Shangri-La Here We Come” Blog.

Present location: Kunming, capital city of Yunnan Province.
Yesterday’s riding distance: 276 kms.
Driving (moving) time): 4:14
Moving average: 65 kph.

Tomorrow destination: Dali
Approximate distance: 340 kms
Guesstimate driving time: 5.5 hours


Below is a screen shot of our total gps track to date.
Each color represents a different day’s ride.
Total kms ridden so far: 1,260

GPS track – Chiang Mai to Kunming


Phil Gibbins is taking a ton of photos, way more than me. He is posting them online. You can view them at the following url:
http://www.rideasia.net/motorcycle-...-karpo-6-740-meters-22-113-a-2.html#post29354

Now on to the blog:

Hello interested parties,

We’ll we made it to Kunming.
It’s another world here in this big city of 6.5 million people.


Kunming Street Corner


Kunming is the largest city in Yunnan Province and it will be our base for future tours to this region. Their major international airport has connections to most other Asian capitals and it is only a 1.5 hour flight from Chiang Mai.

Kunming is known as the City of Eternal Spring because their weather is always pleasant; never too hot and humid and never too cold. Outside right now as I type, it couldn’t be any nicer: 26c, sunny, zero humidity.

Yesterday’s ride can be broken down into 3 parts on the same great highway I loved so much yesterday.

Segment 1: We awoke to heavy rain and decided to wait it out. Around 11, when the precipitation seemed to be tapering off, we departed the hotel, but immediately caught up to the rain again. We rode for two hours in a rain of constantly changing intensity. We kept the speedo at around 80 kph and had no problems dealing with the weather or the road. The design of the F800 kept me surprisingly dry.

One hundred and fifty ks later, we turned off the highway for lunch and had to wait for Pae in the 4×4 and our back-up crew of ground handlers driving a beat-up Chinese-made pickup to catch up; we seem to be driving at nearly double their speed and it was a long wait. Pae is an excellent driver and was complaining he is falling asleep because he has to follow our slow-poke ground handlers.
By the time we finished another excellent meal the rain stopped and the sun was beaming brightly down upon us.

Segment #2: Our post-lunch ride was as wonderful as yesterday’s and I am relishing every kilometer of riding. We topped out at over 2000 meters at the highest point of the roadway. For the last half of the ride we didn’t descend below 1,600 meters. The terrain remained steep and craggy but another couple of dozen tunnels bored right through the impeding land masses and allowed the road to curve sweetly and gently on and on and on.
After exiting one tunnel a sign announced we were going down a 27 km descent.

Segment #3: An hour after lunch we entered the outskirts of another major Chinese city, Yuxi, pop. 2.5 million. (There are 147 Chinese cities with a population of over one million! 147!) South of Yuxi the traffic started getting heavier as one would expect of a city of that size, and it got even heavier in the section heading to Kunming (pop. 6.5 million). Nothing terrible, but we were constantly changing lanes to skirt the slow-moving lorries and the slower private cars that started appearing in large numbers.

One pleasant surprise is the driving skills of the Chinese. I have heard they drive terribly, (just like all the local drivers do in Southeast Asia, generally). But the lorry drivers here are courteous and handle their vehicles safely and with skill, and most of the private cars gave us no trouble at all.

Around 25 ks south of Kunming we had to wait for our back-up crew again because mcs are not allowed on the last piece of highway into Kunming so we had to follow their pickups through heavy local congestion to our hotel in the city center. Every time we came to stop next to a bus, which was frequently, and had to wait out the long red lights, all the passengers would cram over to our side to gawk at us: our F800′s all decked out for touring is an exotic sight. China seems to have more than their fair share of exotic cars, but I haven’t seen any large-capacity mcs yet.

All in all a nice day in the saddle.

Today is a rest day in Kunming. Phil and I did some sightseeing, and our favorite place was Green Lake Park. Great place for people watching and Phil and I became sightseeing objects for the locals in the park. Here is one photo:

Green Lake Park


George Migliorelli, the third member of our riding group, will be flying in this evening. Tomorrow he will ride a 250cc Chinese-brand off-road bike and accompany our tour for ten days. At the end of 10 days George, wherever we are, will fly back to Kunming where he will catch his flight back to HK and one of the ground handlers will ride his mc back to Kunming.


TIME
On a mc tour the pace is generally hectic, so the subject of this blog is: TIME, or rather the lack of it, especially when you are trying to produce a a blog about a journey that is both entertaining and informative.

As I mentioned in post #1, this is my first attempt at writing a blog and I’ve never even read a blog from anyone else before either. I had no idea how time consuming it is to produce what you are reading at this moment.

On a mc tour, we usually arrive at our hotel late afternoon, maybe 4-5 p.m. Immediately we crack open a couple of ice cold beers from the cooler and try to catch our breaths after a fatiguing ride. It feels so wonderful to finally stop moving.
Then we have to unpack the mcs and the 4×4, register and check into our rooms, unpack our belongings, wash some clothes, clean my helmet face shield and riding glasses, shower, and change for dinner. This requires at least an hour with no moments wasted.
We also try to fit in a bit of sightseeing wherever our intended destination is, or, when in Thailand, go for a massage.
Next activity is finding a restaurant, get there, order, eat, return back to the hotel, and by this time it is in the neighborhood of 9 p.m. After riding a mc all day, one is generally bone-tired, and my bed is looking awfully inviting. Need a bit of time to unwind before Mr. Sandman visits. And for those who dabble with the local lasses or enjoy a massage, this seriously eats into your sleep time.
An early departure on a tour of this length is a necessity, and in order to have our asses on the bike, key in the ignition at 7:30, we need to arise at 6 and rapidly do the triple ‘s’ (shit, shower, shave), pack, eat, settle with the hotel, check out, and pack the mcs. Whew.

But wait! These days there is myriad of electronic equipment to deal with, and new must-have gizmos become available weekly.

When I get into my hotel room, before I even jump into a shower, I have to start to recharge all my stuff, and many times there is only a single electrical outlet to handle it all! Two if I am lucky. So I have a charging queue going nearly all the time. And all the devices’ batteries require different charging durations.

Here is a list of what needs to be charged in my kit:

My helmet – it has a blue tooth communication system.

Go Pro VDO cameras – I use two, with battery packs, and each one eats two batteries in the morning and two in the afternoon. That often makes 8 batteries that need charging at night. I do have spare batteries and can skip a day of charging if needed.
Each GoPro also uses up a 32 gb memory card in the a.m. and one in the p.m., and these memory cards need to be downloaded to my computer and then erased. That’s 4 memory cards per day. I do have spares and can skip a day if needed, but sooner rather than later I need to go through the above drill.

My Canon Eos digital camera battery needs to be recharged daily and memory card downloaded

Cell phone needs to be recharged daily and photos downloaded as well.

I use 3 gps devices and every day each gps device needs to be recharged. My Zumo 660 goes through three batteries per day and they recharge extremely slow.
And every day I need to download the saved gps tracks and waypoints to the map program in my computer.
Yes, I know I do not have to do all this downloading daily, but I have to play it safe because if any one of the devices fails I have lost a ton of precious and irreplaceable date.
Then when I do download the tracks and waypoints I have to rename them, give them a meaningful title.

Then there’s my laptop – the brains behind everything. This has to be recharged daily and to write this blog I am using the following programs: Word, Map Source, Photoshop, Lightroom, Chrome, WordPress, and VideoPress.

In addition to doing all the above, and write the blog, and process, resize, and crop photos, and saving them for the web, I have to catch up on my emails, answer all incoming queries about my tours, do banking, and run a business from a remote location.

Then finally I MUST check out how the Yankees are doing, look at the latest box scores, and keep abreast of the NBA playoffs.

I often I have to waste 10 to 15 precious minutes just trying to hook up to the internet with the wifi and/or LAN connections, and quite frequently I have to deal with shoddy, intermittant internet connections on top of everything.

Try fitting in all the above in single day. It ain’t easy, believe me. No wonder I sleep for two solid days when I return home after a tour. Takes out some of the fun of motorcycle touring, doesn’t it?

I swear on a stack of bibles I will never buy another electronic device again, no matter what it does, unless it can take the place of at least three of the current devices I am using.

So readers, if I miss a day or two of blogging, I beg your forgiveness. It’s not that I am not trying or being lazy. There just ain’t enough hours in my days.

Until tomorrow, Bye bye.
 
Looks like your covering some ground now Phil, if your looking at shedding some gadgets i know a nice guy who can find them a good home :lol:
 
An epic journey Phil and Reed! In my business travelbag I always pack one international adapter which allows to load 2 USB devices and a Thai style multiblock with a 3 meter cable allowing some 6-8 power adaptors to be used. Look so much forward to the rest of the pictures, be safe!
 
An epic journey Phil and Reed! In my business travelbag I always pack one international adapter which allows to load 2 USB devices and a Thai style multiblock with a 3 meter cable allowing some 6-8 power adaptors to be used. Look so much forward to the rest of the pictures, be safe!



Thanks Marcel, the plan is NW to Dali tomorrow.
 
Glad you found the lake guys.
The Seagull Hotel (where I stayed and recommend) is also beside the lake (which is also named Cuihu Lake).
The free music, the restaurants, the friendly locals and the greenery make this an excellent place to visit; as you have shown so well in your photos.
 
Glad you found the lake guys.
The Seagull Hotel (where I stayed and recommend) is also beside the lake (which is also named Cuihu Lake).
The free music, the restaurants, the friendly locals and the greenery make this an excellent place to visit; as you have shown so well in your photos.

I saw the entry sign for the Seagul hotel, location looks great.

Never sent from an I-Phone
 
Approaching Dali. One day from Kunming

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Whoa! What a view with the clouds rolling over the mountain as we roll into Dali.


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Never sent from an I-Phone
 
Enjoying this. Thanks guys.

I'm old enough to remember the days of travelling without a bag of black spaghetti (cables and chargers).
 
Today was the only slightly dull ride we'd had of the 1,400km's so far. We made the decision to take the toll road from Kunming to Dali which took just under 5 hours. If we'd taken the scenic local roads it takes 2 riding days. Surprisingly, even with mountains all around us, the fast highway is relatively straight as they've just bored through all the mountains that are in the way.


Arriving in Dali's old town (20km north of the new town) with Dali's Chanshan Mountain in the backdrop.




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We gave the Landscape Hotel a try in Dali's old city, it has secure parking for motorbikes with a security guard


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Big rooms with wifi and aircon.


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When I rode north through here before, I didn't have time to see Dali's old city so this was new to all 3 of us. Early evening, we got a ray of light poking through the clouds onto the mountain.

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A walk around the old city before dinner

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Dali's old city looks new, there is a reason for this, in 1925 Dali had a huge earthquake demolishing the old city.


1925 Dali earthquake - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia



The 1925 Dali earthquake occurred at 14:42 UTC on 16 March. It had an estimated magnitude of 7.0 on the surface wave magnitude scale and a maximum perceived intensity of at least IX (Violent) on the Mercalli intensity scale.[SUP][2][/SUP] It had an epicenter in the province of Yunnan in southern China and killed an estimated 5,000 people.

The city of Dali was severely damaged. 76,000 homes were destroyed either by the shaking or subsequent fires. The city walls were badly affected, locally collapsing completely, with battlements devastated and two of the gate towers destroyed. 3,600 people were killed in the city, with a further 7,200 injured. 5,000 livestock were also killed.[SUP][1][/SUP] In Fengyi, thousands of houses were destroyed and over 1,200 people died, with a further 550 injured. In Midu County, 159 people died and 165 were injured. In Binchuan County, over 800 people died and more than 500 were injured. There were also deaths in Dengchuan, Xiangyun and Weishan.




As you can see below, it all looks rather new


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We made the decision to take the toll road ...

Luxury!
I tried at many locations but was never allowed past the toll gates, so was relegated to the minor roads (which I now feel good about taking).
So riding in convoy with a guide opens up the toll-way roads eh?

Good to see those Dali blue skies.
Hope you 'do' the big lake (Erhai, 250 sq mms) tomorrow.
Best near sunset.
 
Traditional Dali dress


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We figured out this was some kind of BBQ'd cheese sold on the streets


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A locals restaurant


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Street vendors that won't look unless you buy something


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More Dali beauties



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Supermarket in Dali old town


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Most of the restaurants like to advertise their fresh produce outside the premises

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They sure like their BBQ's in Dali


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The cold Dali beer ain't bad either

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Dali - definitely worth a stop when headed north



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Enjoying it from the Imperial Palace Hotel in Seoul.
Someone needs to earn the money, have fun guys!
 
Phil, is your group being asked to pay a deposit on top of hotel room fees?
That little scam, and the haggling to receive the full refund, plagued my journey through Yunnan. :mad:
 
Light drizzle, in two minds whether to leave Dali for Lijian, we go.

As you venture north of Dali, the views improve all the time, managed to slam on the anchors and get this shot (the other two whizzed by!)



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Reed's intrigued by this village, so we go poke around


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Down the back mud streets looking interesting


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There was a general consensus that this was used to make baskets



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Dry storage under the roofs


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One of the farm families invite us into their home and offer us cigarettes and water



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The daughter liked having her photo taken

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Mum wasn't so keen



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We hop back on the bikes and make more progress northwards to wards Lijian. South of the city a huge rice planting operation is underway, the biggest any of us had ever seen.



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There were 100's of people re-planting the infant rice into neat rows




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Amazed you didn't circle Lake Erhai.
Maybe on the way back?

.... the other two whizzed by ...

The little QQ 'whizzed by' !!??
Good to see the little bike in some pics.
Is it's steering behaving?
 
A beautiful, hassle free ride north to Lijian, here arriving on the south side of the old city


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An interesting styling going on next door




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Lijian noodle specialty for lunch




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There wasn't even a convenience store next door and they were "clashing"


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Lijian is a very expensive city for accommodation. I went on a mission to see what I could find cheap.


50 Yuan/ RMB (USD$ 9) got me this, love the guy asleep!!



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Free wifi, own bathroom, quite bearable


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