Greetings from Yangon, Myanmar!

[Joko_Londo]

Hello to all the forum members. My name is Joko, and I'm an English teacher who's been living and working in "The Golden Land" for close to three years now. My hobbies include basketball, blogging, ukulele playing and making videos for YouTube. I've also lived in Bangkok, and when I was much younger, I spent a couple years in Indonesia as an exchange student. It's a pleasure to join this forum. I've been perusing your pics and stories and am much impressed.

I've been riding motorcycles since I got a Kawasaki KV75 when I was 8 years old. That's close to 40 years now. Although most of my bikes have been on the smaller side, I've driven everything from little 50cc scooters to a Suzuki 650cc. It was with great sadness that I sold my Honda Smile in Bangkok when I moved here to Yangon, where bikes are forbidden.

Last year, I was given a temporary remote assignment up in the capital, Naypyitaw. Knowing it was just a short term thing, I bought a cheap Chinese Kenbo 125. Brand new, less than US$600! Anyways, I've driven that little bike all over Myanmar on a few tours I've made while on vacation. During this time, I've left it parked across the river out of town.

Come January, I have another 2500 km loop planned through Shan State in the east of the country. Before I do that, I want to trade the Kenbo in for something a little bigger and better. I'm thinking a Honda CRF250 or 450.

The next trip (except I won't be doing that shortcut into Thailand)...

 

[blackwolf]

Sounds like a great trip! Hate to bust your enthusiasm though, but are you sure you'll be allowed to travel between Hsipaw and Kengtung? Parts of this road is off-limits to foreigners and that includes expats. Similarly, even if you stay entirely within Myanmar (not to mention there's no legal border crossing anywhere between Tachilek/Mae Sai and Myawady/Mae Sot), most of the route from Tachilek to west of Langkho is also forbidden I believe. Of course, maybe you will be able to secure a travel permit for these parts (I hope so) - please report back should this be the case, however, judging by the lack of riders (or indeed any visitors) to visit these parts (except for some that have traveled the road between Kengtung and Taunggyi, where travel permits are more likely to be granted) you'll be one of the first, if you manage!

 

[Joko_Londo]

Thanks for the info and encouragement, blackwolf. The leg of the map below that shows the route entering Thailand is just a google maps error. My intention is stay entirely within Myanmar.

About the permits... I am going to investigate that more, but you know how it is. One person says one thing one day, there's a different answer another day. A fairly reliable source (the Myanmar wife of a guy in Mandalay who organizes motorcycle tours here) told me last year that because I have a Myanmar drivers license, I do not need to get a travel permit to drive my own motorcycle. I can go anywhere that isn't entirely banned. Given that the civil unrest is in Northern Shan, I didn't think any of these areas would be forbidden. As the saying goes, it's easier to ask forgiveness than it is to get permission. Worse comes to worst, I'll just turn around and go somewhere else.

 

[blackwolf]

Thanks for the info and encouragement, blackwolf. The leg of the map below that shows the route entering Thailand is just a google maps error. My intention is stay entirely within Myanmar.

About the permits... I am going to investigate that more, but you know how it is. One person says one thing one day, there's a different answer another day. A fairly reliable source (the Myanmar wife of a guy in Mandalay who organizes motorcycle tours here) told me last year that because I have a Myanmar drivers license, I do not need to get a travel permit to drive my own motorcycle. I can go anywhere that isn't entirely banned. Given that the civil unrest is in Northern Shan, I didn't think any of these areas would be forbidden. As the saying goes, it's easier to ask forgiveness than it is to get permission. Worse comes to worst, I'll just turn around and go somewhere else.

Yes the civil unrest in the north is unfortunate. I was lucky enough to be able to visit Kutkai and Muse, where I have stayed on 2 separate occasions, the most recent was February of last year, days before unrest broke out in nearby Kokang region. Since November 20th, Muse and surrounding areas have been under attack, which according to my friend and Myanmar immigration contact is the first time in over a decade that Muse township itself has been attacked. I think it was earlier this year when parts of central Shan State were also under attack, hence why parts of that region are off-limits (at least without a permit that is).

As far as riding your bike with valid Myanmar rider's licence is concerned, you are fine as your source mentioned. However, in most open places where tourists ride bikes without licences, even not having a licence seems to be OK. I've ridden motorcycles in Myawady and Hpa-an without incident, despite not possessing a Myanmar rider's licence.

Anyway, I would check your sources again to confirm where you want to go is OK.

I know that the following parts of Shan State are definitely OK:

Mandalay to Lashio highway

Southern Shan State up to the caves east of Taunggyi

Mong La to Tachilek corridor (via Kengtung)

Some other places in between

Taunggyi to Kengtung requires a travel permit (for the traveler) and a guide - not sure if an expat such as yourself would require a guide too, probably yes. I would suggest asking a locally based travel agent for advice, or Myanmar Travel and Tours (MTT) who issue travel permits.

As you say, you could always just set out on your trip and see how far you get. Should you get turned around, you just go to a different area. There's plenty to explore and most of the country is now open, except unfortunately, large areas of Shan and Kachin states.

 

[Joko_Londo]

Because of Blackwolf's advice, I went down to the Tourist Information office next to Maha Bandoola Park here in Yangon today...

[FONT=&quot]“First thing I want to say is that I’m not a tourist,” this was a great way to introduce yourself at the Yangon office of Myanmar Tourism and Travel (MTT), an agency under the Ministry of Hotels and Tourism which is responsible for granting travel permits to foreigners who are looking to visit the hinterlands of Myanmar.

[/FONT][FONT=&quot]See, this country has had the longest ongoing civil war of any nation on Earth. Various ethnicities have been fighting for autonomy from the central government going back to the 1940’s. Even today, one reads about this or that battle between the Myanmar Army and such and such liberation front every week. It’s perhaps the biggest challenge this new democratically elected government under Aung San Suu Kyi faces, and there have been some baby steps towards brokering a lasting peace.

I invite you to read the rest of this at my blog. [/FONT]

 

[Lone Rider]

The usual answers here in Asia - Oh, Can not, too difficult for you, to dangerous with many big trucks, etc. Well, as you said, I look forward to your report on the actual situation on the ground and hope you get through.

 

[bsacbob]

Welcome to Ride Asia, looking forward to your trip reports on this fascinating country.

 

[oldbloke]

Because of Blackwolf's advice, I went down to the Tourist Information office next to Maha Bandoola Park here in Yangon today...

“First thing I want to say is that I’m not a tourist,” this was a great way to introduce yourself at the Yangon office of Myanmar Tourism and Travel (MTT), an agency under the Ministry of Hotels and Tourism which is responsible for granting travel permits to foreigners who are looking to visit the hinterlands of Myanmar.

See, this country has had the longest ongoing civil war of any nation on Earth. Various ethnicities have been fighting for autonomy from the central government going back to the 1940’s. Even today, one reads about this or that battle between the Myanmar Army and such and such liberation front every week. It’s perhaps the biggest challenge this new democratically elected government under Aung San Suu Kyi faces, and there have been some baby steps towards brokering a lasting peace.

I invite you to read the rest of this at my blog.

Like you say, it's better to ask forgiveness than permission..... But are you sure the forgiveness will be forthcoming if they go back and read your planning?? : Anyway, you can only give it a go, and see what happens.
I've certainly found in the past blind eyes can be turned if seeing seems too much trouble for the official, but I haven't pushed boundaries as far as you propose with your ride from Hsipaw to Kentung. I really hope you can blaze the trail - but do be careful, especially not to aggravate any high-ranking police.. or anyone else who might think you are covert DEA /UN/journalist. Looking forward to more good video reports.
BTW, last year there seemed plenty of motorcycles around North Okkalapa - maybe you can keep the Kenbo there?

 

[Joko_Londo]

Thanks for the advice and the compliments on the videos. I'll be careful. The GoPro atop the helmet might confuse and even be threatening...

As for the Kenbo, trading it in for something nicer is one of my first orders of business when I start the journey. If I can't find anything in Nay Pyi Taw, I think I'll drive it through the Bagan stretch and then up to Mandalay. There's gotta be plenty of places to buy something better in Mandalay.

Maybe that Zach guy who runs a tour company there could sell me one of his used bikes.