Muan Sing, Casino's & dirt hell

KTMphil

Senior member
Joined
Jan 11, 2011
Location
Chiang Mai, Thailand
Bikes
2007 KTM 990 Adventure Suzuki DRZ 400
Laos is one of the riding heavens on earth



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Well, it is until a good friend tells you a dirt trail is "graded and almost paved all the way" (for the visually impaired, instead of removing the landslide, they've just packed it down into a big mound. #Mekong river on the left headed north here towards Muan Sing).



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Well, it is until a good friend tells you a dirt trail is "graded and almost paved all the way" (for the visually impaired, instead of removing the landslide, they've just packed it down into a big mound. #Mekong river on the left headed north here towards Muan Sing).

You'd expect better from the Laos roads in the wet season?
SillyPhilly
 
Looks like Laos new roads 3months down the line...
where's the fotos!!
 
New tires (nobbly on the front for this trip) & cosmetic touch up from previous adventures. Yamaha Square in Chiang Mai are fantastic.



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A blast up to Chiang Khong on the 990, filling all 3 fuel tanks, hoping I could do it on one fill up.


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Wat Luang Chai Sathan just north of Chiang Khong main customs office


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Chiang Khong Customs, with the nicest, most polite overstay fine-taking ladies you'll find in the whole of the Kingdom, almost a delight handing over the 2,000 Bht.


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Apart from the Bamboo Mexican Restaurant in Chiang Khong, getting fed quickly before getting the ferry across to Laos has always been problematic (in Chiang Khing).


Now the new Tesco Lotus just south of town, 100 meters south of the big PTT fuel station is now open, might be your best last chance for good protein for a while.



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Yempaul's, 20 bike Singapore group had stopped by in Chiang Mai a few days ago on a 42 day ride to Kazakhstan.




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I thought they had gone into Laos the ay before I reached Chiang Khong, low and behold as I get to the ferry ramp and there they are & had been waiting for 3 hours!


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Just as I got there, they were boarding the ferry


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Managed to squeeze on the back with them. For most of them this was their first time north of Malaysia, they were all very excited



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Yempaul was as busy as hell getting 20 bikes and riders into Laos (he told me the Laos agent was charging 2,200 Bht a person for agent clearance, seemed high), so I waved them goodbye and good luck and headed north towards the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone & the KingsRoman Casino & Entertainment Center which is opposite Chiang Saen, Thailand (It's in Laos on the eastern side of the Mekong River).



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Only ever look at this "special zone" from the Thailand side before, was quite eyeopening to see it close up


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Huge fleet of courtesy vehicles for Chinese gamblers


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Even the odd courtesy Hummer here and there


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You'd expect better from the Laos roads in the wet season?
SillyPhilly

Aha, were you the source of the"(graded and almost paved all the way". I told him that at least one part along the Mekong would be very muddy and lo and behold, I got a text message that he almost decided to leave the bike behind so stay tuned for the next installments.
 
The Casino is made up of 2 huge gambling halls with VIP gambling rooms around the edges. No real restaurant inside, (there are a few behind in Chinatown) only a buffet for gamblers that have wasted enough money for some free food.



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Behind/ to the east of the Casino, there is a huge high class "ChinaTown" being developed, when I was there 80% finished.



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Range Rovers & Mercedes everywhere. In front a black Hummer, give you an idea of their clientele


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Nope, the source was someone else with a green KLX


Aha, were you the source of the"(graded and almost paved all the way". I told him that at least one part along the Mekong would be very muddy and lo and behold, I got a text message that he almost decided to leave the bike behind so stay tuned for the next installments.
 
A ride up and down ChinaTown's street to see what sells to rich Chinese. Plenty of expensive clothes shops, the one below sold expensive rocks



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The shop below, I had no idea what they were selling


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At the very eastern end of the ChinaTown walking street there is one convenience store, everything else sells merchandise with a couple of restaurants thrown in too.



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Eastern end of town still under construction


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Accommodation in the KingsRoman entertainment project, at the current stage of construction i could find 2 options.



The Kapok Garden Hotel, just to the north of the KingsRoman Casino is 1,900 bht a night. Remember this whole zone is aimed at high rollers so no cheap 350Bht places were anywhere here.





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Decent rooms, felt like it should have been a 1,000 Bht a night place


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The only other option was the KingsRoman Hotel, behind (east) of the casino that wanted 3,000 bht a night



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On the northern side of the ChinaTown street, there's a great restaurant, Chinese of course


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With the Hummer outside, i was a bit concerned what it would cost



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What's interesting in this casino zone is you wont find anyone that speaks Laos or Thai in the restaurants. The menu was in Chinese, getting no where time t go into the kitchen and point at things.



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I pointed at a tomato thinking this would be safe, what happened? Tomato comes out filled with sugar



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Luckily the rest came out ok & was top class cuisine


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After dark, this place jumps to life


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The brand new, just completed Kareoke complex, very ritzy



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A good friend had said "go the dirt way to M. Sing, it's graded and paved nearly all the way now". Sounded interesting and easy why not give it a try?



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So far so good, looks like he was right


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A few KM's north and this was still looking like a good idea


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A few more and this, oh dear. When you start to see this & you're on a 1,000cc bike its normally prudent to turn around. Maybe it'll get better if we go on some more, cant get worse can it?



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A few more bends and what do we have here? Lets just pack the landslide down, much easier than moving it. Really good time to turn the 1,000cc bike around? Hell no, this turns into a "graded road" i'm told



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At least there's some decent views over the Mekong westwards into Myanmar



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There must have been 40 landslides in 10km


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Was hoping this might be my excuse to turn around on the graded road, but alas the soldier made me a way around the mess with some rocks


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So the rock-way road built, onwards we go. This doesn't look too nice & bloody deep


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Well if no one come along soon I'll turn back. Sure enough help comes



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So , across the deep part safely, lets go find that graded road
 
Things went from horrendous to very horrendous. Slippy rocks trying to walk the 1,000cc bike through the next river and I dropped it, then it started raining and then this



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This was now the stupid idiot turn-around point so I went back south towards Houay Xai, looks like i'll have to wait to see the graded road
 
Damn dude....looking at your bike, it appears you forgot to pack something......

Should title the pic " Got luggage?" It may help w fuel economy to jettison, oh I'd say about 90% of it ;) JK.....

Nice pix.......
 
Finally, back on some better stuff where the 990 is fun



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& then looks like still enough time to make M. Sing NE wards via Luang Namtha on R 3



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Damn dude....looking at your bike, it appears you forgot to pack something......

Should title the pic " Got luggage?" It may help w fuel economy to jettison, oh I'd say about 90% of it ;) JK.....

Nice pix.......


Most of it is inner tubes, tools & spares
 
Rain was building all around now, with LNT not far ahead it was a bailout option, no decent food in Vieng Phoukha, although there's a great morning market


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Just a shower, still time to push on north towards M. Sing



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Looked like the SW monsoon had done its work for the rice plantations



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M. Sing is a great old Chinese border town, a no nonsense trading environment where everyone speaks Chinese.




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Wiki:

Muang Sing - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


[h=2]History[/h] Not much is known about the history of the town before the 18th century. A walled settlement named Wiang Fa Ya was founded by the widow of the ruler of Chiang Khaeng and in 1792 she ordered the construction of a large stupa.[SUP][4][/SUP] The district of Muang Sing was the subject of a border dispute between the French and British for decades. The French set up a garrison here in 1876. Muang Sing was never formally incorporated into the kingdom of Xishuangbanna in the late 19th century and the ruler of Muang Sing, Chao Fa Sirinor, ruled the area as a semi-autonomous principality in the late 19th century.[SUP][5][/SUP] In 1885, Sirinor moved the capital of his Lue principality of Chiang Khaeng to Muang Sing, several kilometres to the southeast, bringing with him some 1000 Lue people.[SUP][6][/SUP] Because of its important position geographically, the people of the town have historically been on better terms with the Burmese, Thai and Chinese people than the rest of Laos.[SUP][5][/SUP] However, it has continued to attract Lue pilgrims to its reliquary festival from Xishuangbanna since at least World War II due to its past.[SUP][5][/SUP]

Local people


In 1904, Muang Sing was incorporated in French Laos after France and Great Britain made an agreement.[SUP][5][/SUP] In 1907, the Governor-General of Indochina in Hanoi issued a decree to establish the post of a "delegue du Commissaire du Gouvernement" at Muang Sing.[SUP][7][/SUP] It became part of French Indochina in 1916, but the locals continued to show discontent with the French occupation.[SUP][8][/SUP] In the first half of the 20th century, the French capitalized on the location of the town by using it as a weigh station and market to regulate their opium monopoly, Opium Regie, and control production by the Hmong and Mien peoples. By World War II, some 15% of the colonial revenue of the French was obtained through opium trading.[SUP][9][/SUP] When changes in the international situation after the war blocked off many historical trading routes, the French government encouraged Hmong farmers to mass produce the poppies by some 800% to compete and maintain their monopoly.[SUP][9][/SUP] In 1953, however, Laos became independent from France and trading declined until the 1990s, when the opening of the country to tourism saw many people arriving in the area to smoke opium, leading to the reopening of drug dens.[SUP][1][/SUP]
 
The town has several scanky, worn looking guest houses, next to the tribal museum there's a 1/2 decent place for 80,000 Kip incl. aircon, good value



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Its run by a Chinese family, they also do excellent food downstairs


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