A Day with the Hmong

[2wheels]

Last year the Hmong New Year celebrations at Puak Toey (just off the Samoeng loop) were sensational, so I was keen not to miss them this year.
I rode to the community on 22nd to confirm the date and was told 'tomorrow'!


So I went to the Hmong Christian/Animist community of Puak Toey 'tomorrow' and I'll now share what happened.
The day was very loosely organised, no loud speakers, no adults yelling instructions; subdued.
It turned out to be Hmong Children's Day as part of their New Year Celebrations.
More celebrations coming too and I'll give that info in this report.


Puak Toey is just off the #1096.







The kids were warming up their racing carts when I arrived.






One of the Hmong adults appointed some lads to be my guide for the day!
(and these superb little hosts stayed with me all day)
Throughout the day I was to be the only 'Farang' there.



I felt quite safe with this one by my side.



Throughout the day the lads brought food, fresh fruit and water, even hot coffee bless 'em!




Then they asked if I wanted to look around the community, so we went for a walk.




Past this artistic photographer ...



... past our breakfast being prepared ...



...and into a few gardens.









Wonderful views they have up here.



He took good care of my back-pack all day.



It transpired that the cart racing was not planned for today.
'Mai phen rai'; we can still have some fun in them.



And on the traditional Hmong swing.














(continuing)

 

[2wheels]

Nothing specifically organised, so let's just walk around for a while.





















Then a selection of 'Ancient Ice-cream' arrived.



Yep, I'm still a boy at heart.
In a vain attempt to get rid of me they actually pushed me towards the steep hill which will be used
for the racing. However, I hadn't sufficiently warmed up the tyres, so bravely executed a U-turn just before
the drop!




In my back-pack were some stickers left over from our recent ride in Laos.
These make an excellent gift. (Thanks Alan)







(continuing)

 

[2wheels]

Then, early afternoon, some organising happened and the children played that Hmong 'throw and catch' game.
But this group didn't use a ball, rather they used a rice-stuffed bag with ribbons tied at the corners.
Don't know if they were being politically correct but all the bags were yellow and red!







There was a nice selection of handicraft on display, not necessarily for sale.
This embroidery (is that the name?) impressed me and I made it known that I'd like to buy it.
Two hours later it was mine!
The price? "What you want to pay." !
The work depicts traditional Hmong rural activity and was very skilfully made by a Hmong schoolgirl.
It will be ironed, framed and hung on my kitchen wall.





Meanwhile, my taxi had arrived.



Some proud Hmong wearing their traditional attire.

(This was a different costume style from what I saw here last year, so I'm assuming there are a number of Hmong sub-groups, each with
their unique ways of doing things, for example, costume style, ball games etc and maybe even dialectal differences. Research to do.)

















And not so traditional.



Meanwhile the carts were being put to good use.







(continuing .... maybe!)

 

[2wheels]

Then another traditional activity spontaneously happened; 'top' spinning.
And I lost my guide for a couple of hours!
He was brilliant. It so happens that young 'Goh' is the Puak Toey 'World Spinning Champion'!







Satisfied and being very 'cool', look around to see if anyone else is seriously and successfully spinning.





When the 'top' was near the end of its spin Goh would lower his head and appear to listen to the 'top'.
At times he appeared to kiss it. Next time I visit (I'll take a few dozen prints from these pics for the kids) I want to find out about this.
More research!



Him also.



Then The Champ had two going simultaneously.



Only one girl was spinning.



And the audience was impressed.







(continuing?)

 

[2wheels]

Then my guides took me to the back of a house to inspect some sticky rice being made by the village Matriarch and her daughter.



Wrapped in banana leaf, leave to dry for about a week, but no more than two, (outside of a refrigerator) then fry it.
They gave me a couple of bundles to take home, so I'll try it on New Years Eve.







Then a tray-load was given to visitors.



Next, my guides took me to another group who were making artificial flowers.





A free lunch was being delivered to all, just as the choir was preparing to entertain us.
Meals on wheels.





The choir in traditional costume.

























It's been a long day for Mum.



This photographer was getting some wonderful photos.



And, in Hmong time, the choir was ready.



(continuing)












 

[2wheels]

The choir performed, mostly, Evangelical and Christmas songs.
They were great!







This little chap supplied the percussion.









The audience was captivated.







He wasn't.
'Look Mum, no hands.'



Meanwhile, another group of children were making badges.





And the sole 'Farang' visitor was given a few badges, which he will treasure.





So, as I was informed, these carts ...



... will be racing down a steep hill at Puak Toey community on January 15th.

The turn off into the community is off #1096 at

N18.87646
E98.78412

See you there!?

 

[Just Bob]

I know post and beam house construction, but I'd never imagine it used for a vehicle!

 

[2wheels]

The Hmong game of love

By Liz Price



"Throw the ball and catch a husband. If you see a boy you like, toss the ball to him and hope he returns it. But if you don't like your prospective partner, then drop the ball he throws you.
Novel, isn't it?
This is pov pob, the ball-tossing game of the Hmong, a minority ethnic group in Laos. The ball-tossing game is a common activity for adolescents.
Boys and girls form two separate lines in pairs that are directly facing one another. The players throw a soft black ball back and forth to each other.

Catching the ball gives him hope. Dropping it could mean she's got her sights on someone else. — LIZ PRICE

The ball is thrown so that the other player can catch it with one hand. If the throw is good and the other player drops or misses the ball,
an ornament or a piece of silver or a belt from his or her costume is given to the opposite player in the pair.
Ornaments are recovered by singing traditional courting songs to the opposite player.

Girls can toss the ball with other girls or boys, but boys cannot toss the ball with boys. It is also taboo to toss the ball to someone of the same clan,
as Hmongs may not marry within the same clan group. Through playing this game, the youngsters get to know each other, forming relationships that may eventually lead to marriage.
If the boy throws the ball and the girl makes no attempt to catch it, then he has been rejected. Traditionally the ball was made of cotton, but today the couples use tennis balls.
Every unmarried girl tries to make a new dress especially for the ball game. During their spare moments from working at home or in the fields,
the girls embroider special designs on their costumes. The boys, too, wear their best new clothes.
Each player wears at least one silver collar. However, today, many have compromised on the dress code and wear unbecoming trainers or clumpy modern platform shoes.
Some of the boys don't even bother to dress up. It seems such a pity that the girls make a big effort to dress up for the occasion whereas a few of the boys come in their everyday clothes.
I had to laugh at the number of handphones I saw. Many of the boys and girls were catching the ball with one hand, while the other one clutched a handphone.
In years to come they will probably give up throwing the ball and just send text messages instead!
Traditional Hmong society is very ordered and a marriage partner must be found from another clan. The ball throwing game takes place during the Hmong New Year celebration,
because they usually work all year round and have no time for courtship. All the Hmong communities in the country celebrate the New Year.
It is held at the end of the 12th lunar calendar month and the beginning of the first lunar calendar month, which is the time of the full moon in November (of the Laotian calendar).
This is at the end of the rice harvest, and the festival lasts anything from three to 45 days.
However, not all communities celebrate the New Year at the same time since it may not coincide with the end of the rice harvest for them.
It is preferable that the New Year celebration coincides with those in other nearby villages so that the unmarried men can meet prospective wives in other communities as well.
Young people usually get married after the New Year, between the first and the 15th of the month. They believe that it's a good time for marriage,
because everything starts as new, especially with a new moon - something the Hmongs live their lives by.
There is an interesting story of the origin of this ball-throwing game.
A long time ago, before the Hmong migrated to Laos, they lived in China. There were specific times set aside for courting.
It was the man's duty to court a girl and the actual activity of pov pob occurred when some love-stricken fellow devised a plan in which he would be able to send symbols of love to his girlfriend.
He would hide some charm or personal item wrapped up in a bun and throw it to his chosen girl. Then she proceeded to do the same.
Back and forth they threw these items. If they were separated by a high wall, he would sing to indicate he was there and she would have to answer with similar lyrics.
Over the years, the buns turned into balls made from strips of fabric and were tossed at New Year to show affection or interest.
The beautiful lyrics continue to be a feature in this courting game." (from thestaronline)

 

[2wheels]

Hmong New Year (Games)

Hmong - The Virtual Hilltribe Museum @ www.hilltribe.org

 

[2wheels]

Hmong Life and Background.

(It seems that the group who hosted me are known as 'The Black Hmong').

Welcome To Ge and Rich's Home Page on the Hmong

 

[KTMphil]

Coffee table book stuff 2W, well captured.

 

[2wheels]

Whereas last year, at the same community, the costumes and headwear were like this.





And the ball game (of love) was like this.

 

[KTMphil]

You've captured the event perfectly 2W, almost feels like you were there with those photo's, nice job.

 

[Gnasher328]

Hi, so that's where you were. I'll stick the 15 th on the calendar. Great pics, tab was struggling to load them all.
Tim.

 

[2wheels]

I returned to this village yesterday to check about the cart racing ...



... and 'Yes' it is being held on 15th but at Mae Sa, still on the Samoeng Loop.
I'll check and give co-ordinates tomorrow.

 

[Gnasher328]

Thanks, I'll look it up, planning to be there.
Ta, Tim.

 

[Gnasher328]

Thanks, I'll look it up, planning to be there.
Ta, Tim.

 

[2wheels]

Just back from checking the site.

Yep, it's on tomorrow and probably for a few more days too.

From Mae Rim side, along Samoeng loop road # 1096, past Queen Sirikit Botanical Gardens on left, into Mae Sa
and left at this blue sign to Mae Sa Mai



N 18.87646
E 98.78412



in, past the track to Cave, continue about 7kms, magnificent views,
to



N 18.83199
E 99.16930

and Mae Sa Mai opens up to you.

It will be a hoot.
'Yes', cart racing is on but don't know what time.
The action has already started and will re-commence in earnest around 6am (COLD :cry ).
A big crowd is expected tomorrow.
Lots of food and drinks available, also lots of hills!
Well, they are Hmong.

 

[Gnasher328]

Thanks for the info, see you there. But not at 6am, more likely @11:00.
Regards, Tim.

 

[Gnasher328]

Thanks for the tip, great colourfull day out. Look fwd to seeing your photos this won't be as good, just a bit of practice.

Regards, Tim.

 

[Loop]

Nice day out..

 

[2wheels]

No competitions here mate!
Good to have shared a few hours with you; 'colourful' has to be an understatement; those Hmong costumes are amazing.
I'll post a few pics under another thread, 'Hmong Style' tomorrow.
Good to see 'Loop' and a few 'Farang' made it to the event too.

 

[Loop]

A couple of vids i took of the festivities on Tuesday..

 

[2wheels]

So I went back to Puak Toey on Sunday, mainly to distribute some prints and shirts to the little lads who looked after me so well during their celebrations.

I rode up the hill into the clearing where the festivities occurred and was not really surprised to see the same little gang of Hmong lads there ...... spinning tops!

We sat in the sand for a while, me trying to learn some Hmong phrases and them rolling in the sand laughing! It was good to hear them communicating in their own language too.

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And a book of the ever-popular stickers!

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After very polite 'thank you's from the lads and a friendly goodbye it was off to pick some strawberries at Samoeng.

 

[Just Bob]

That's great Ron! Good on ya.

 

[Ally]

Nice one Ron, good to see those smiles

The effort you put into returning something to the communities you visit is something many would wish to do. You really do it from the heart.

Thank you for sharing some of the moments with us Ron.

Ally