cuban8
Senior member
As the bikes needed to be stamped, Eddie and I decided to take the opportunity to visit bits of Laos that we haven't been before. The trip would take us to Chiang Khong first and across to Houay Xai ending up at Luang Namtha for the night. After leaving Chiang Mai close to 9am, we made it to Chiang Khong to catch the 1pm ferry across after having to clear the paperwork at customs house.
Waiting at the ferry crossing for the 1pm ferry. Having done a substantial amount of riding in Thailand when he first rode up from Singapore and also around North Thailand in July, it was Eddie's first time crossing at Chiang Khong and also his first riding trip into Laos. Pretty excited as you can tell from his subtle grin.
The main highway North took us to Luang Namtha. Stayed at the Sokxaythone Resort N20.99592 E101.40652
Next day after having a look around the airport area (can anyone verify if this was a Lima Site?), we headed off to see what Boten was like. This is the immigration on the Lao side and the archway means you are actually out of Laos. It was close to mid day when we got to Boten after struggling to get past a massive truck queue leading up to the customs weigh station, the clouds had lifted and the former hotel and casino area did not look as spooky as in some pictures I've seen. With such new buildings complete and half built, it was certainly a bizzare place to be in. It was off to Oudomxay for lunch where we met a European couple on a rented KLX who were headed to Phongsali. Wished them the best and separate ways we went. Caught up with an older gentleman we met at Houay Xai who was touring Laos in his 4x4. He shared some trip ideas before he left for the Vietnamese border, Dien Bien Phu.
If you are a asian food fan, you may want to consider dropping by the Lao Coffee Shop (N19.88806 E102.13220) in Luang Prabang. Excellent "Pho" noodles and this special dish in the pic above which is made by steaming a rice flour mixture to form a wrapper for marinated mince pork. Can't say too much about Lao style coffee though. Kevin and I stayed at the Vieng Savanh (N19.88913 E102.13233) in January and found it very comfortable and walking distance to the night bazaar. Even at B1500, they were full this time round.
Next morning's ride to Ponsavahn was uneventful despite being greeted by fog, rain and trucks. This panorama taken at Phou Khoun which is the halfway point between Luang Prabang and Ponsavahn, gives you an idea what the visibilty was like. To describe it as poor seems kind.
We got into Ponsavahn after a 260km ride from Luang Prabang only 6 hrs later. Cold and damp but we immediately went to visit the Plain of Jars site 1. After reading much about it's history and now seeing them with our own eyes, its still hard to side if they were jars of grain or jars of human remains...........much left to ponder. The cave with the hole on its peak sure seems like it could have been a crematorium.
The owner of Dok Khoun Hotel (N19.45078 E103.21892) on Ponsavahn's main street had an impressive little collection of war munitions displayed at the side of the carpark. Their solar heated showers were welcomed after being in the rain all day. His daugther runs a restaurant across the street with the same name. Reasonably priced food and beer and free BBQ corn on the cob if you ask her nicely. Maybe its made up by her dad charging B800 for nights stay in his hotel.
Back to Luang Prabang on Thursday took half the time in clear skies and sunny weather. The next morning's ferry was in a little fog crossing the Mekong and 10000 kip later, we linked up the trail back to Hongsa.
Only realised that it was close to Hmong New Year when we got back to Chiang Mai. Hence the villagers of Ban Phou Sam Phanh were dressed traditionally playing "toss the ball". Would have stayed on to party if we were not rushing to make Chiang Mai by dark.
The trails were mostly dry except for a few muddy portions covered by tree canopy. After 6 water crossings and 130km of dirt, we arrived in Hongsa for fuel from very inquisitive attendants who were wondering why our bikes had 2 tanks. They were shocked after telling them that the 2 tanks hold approximately 20 liters but will take you only 250km.
Construction of the Hongsa Power Station is well underway. Even the surrounding roads are paved and sealed. Nice twisties to really bank it over.
Demarcating the Lao and Thai border.
Muang Ngeun Immigration is now completely paved and new offices built within.
This is the Thai arrival immigration counter. The old archway has since been torn down, probably to facilitate the large number of trucks passing through. A new customs building has been built just at the Thung Chang turn off. You won't miss it.
From here it was a quick ride to Nan, by passing Phayao to catch the 120 and 118 back to Chiang Mai. 12 Hours and 2000km later, we got into Riders Corner at about 7.30pm in time to meet the large Motorad group from Malaysia.
Waiting at the ferry crossing for the 1pm ferry. Having done a substantial amount of riding in Thailand when he first rode up from Singapore and also around North Thailand in July, it was Eddie's first time crossing at Chiang Khong and also his first riding trip into Laos. Pretty excited as you can tell from his subtle grin.
The main highway North took us to Luang Namtha. Stayed at the Sokxaythone Resort N20.99592 E101.40652
Next day after having a look around the airport area (can anyone verify if this was a Lima Site?), we headed off to see what Boten was like. This is the immigration on the Lao side and the archway means you are actually out of Laos. It was close to mid day when we got to Boten after struggling to get past a massive truck queue leading up to the customs weigh station, the clouds had lifted and the former hotel and casino area did not look as spooky as in some pictures I've seen. With such new buildings complete and half built, it was certainly a bizzare place to be in. It was off to Oudomxay for lunch where we met a European couple on a rented KLX who were headed to Phongsali. Wished them the best and separate ways we went. Caught up with an older gentleman we met at Houay Xai who was touring Laos in his 4x4. He shared some trip ideas before he left for the Vietnamese border, Dien Bien Phu.
If you are a asian food fan, you may want to consider dropping by the Lao Coffee Shop (N19.88806 E102.13220) in Luang Prabang. Excellent "Pho" noodles and this special dish in the pic above which is made by steaming a rice flour mixture to form a wrapper for marinated mince pork. Can't say too much about Lao style coffee though. Kevin and I stayed at the Vieng Savanh (N19.88913 E102.13233) in January and found it very comfortable and walking distance to the night bazaar. Even at B1500, they were full this time round.
Next morning's ride to Ponsavahn was uneventful despite being greeted by fog, rain and trucks. This panorama taken at Phou Khoun which is the halfway point between Luang Prabang and Ponsavahn, gives you an idea what the visibilty was like. To describe it as poor seems kind.
We got into Ponsavahn after a 260km ride from Luang Prabang only 6 hrs later. Cold and damp but we immediately went to visit the Plain of Jars site 1. After reading much about it's history and now seeing them with our own eyes, its still hard to side if they were jars of grain or jars of human remains...........much left to ponder. The cave with the hole on its peak sure seems like it could have been a crematorium.
The owner of Dok Khoun Hotel (N19.45078 E103.21892) on Ponsavahn's main street had an impressive little collection of war munitions displayed at the side of the carpark. Their solar heated showers were welcomed after being in the rain all day. His daugther runs a restaurant across the street with the same name. Reasonably priced food and beer and free BBQ corn on the cob if you ask her nicely. Maybe its made up by her dad charging B800 for nights stay in his hotel.
Back to Luang Prabang on Thursday took half the time in clear skies and sunny weather. The next morning's ferry was in a little fog crossing the Mekong and 10000 kip later, we linked up the trail back to Hongsa.
Only realised that it was close to Hmong New Year when we got back to Chiang Mai. Hence the villagers of Ban Phou Sam Phanh were dressed traditionally playing "toss the ball". Would have stayed on to party if we were not rushing to make Chiang Mai by dark.
The trails were mostly dry except for a few muddy portions covered by tree canopy. After 6 water crossings and 130km of dirt, we arrived in Hongsa for fuel from very inquisitive attendants who were wondering why our bikes had 2 tanks. They were shocked after telling them that the 2 tanks hold approximately 20 liters but will take you only 250km.
Construction of the Hongsa Power Station is well underway. Even the surrounding roads are paved and sealed. Nice twisties to really bank it over.
Demarcating the Lao and Thai border.
Muang Ngeun Immigration is now completely paved and new offices built within.
This is the Thai arrival immigration counter. The old archway has since been torn down, probably to facilitate the large number of trucks passing through. A new customs building has been built just at the Thung Chang turn off. You won't miss it.
From here it was a quick ride to Nan, by passing Phayao to catch the 120 and 118 back to Chiang Mai. 12 Hours and 2000km later, we got into Riders Corner at about 7.30pm in time to meet the large Motorad group from Malaysia.
