Gnasher328
Senior Member
- Joined
- Aug 9, 2012
- Location
- Chiang Mai / New Forest, England
- Bikes
- Ducati 851 & Mille S2, HD FXR, Trumpet R3, BMW R100RS, CRF 250
The next day I felt a lot better which was a relief as something similar last year took several days to get over, perhaps my system is becoming 'acclimatised'.
The road to Oudomxay was narrow but tarmac and the main thing that regulated progress was that there were many villages strung along it with pigs, dogs, chickens and children milling around and randomly darting across. I kept the speed down to 30-50 kph but soon got fed up with slowing right down for the chickens as I'd heard they were fairly soft and simply exploded in a puff of feathers, also that they were impossible to actually hit. This might be true as I found if I slowed they would stay right in front of me but the faster I went the faster they moved. On a similar note I met a bloke who had wrecked his big bike when a dog ran out in front of him - although he had not actually hit it, just skidded off under braking. Not the first time I have heard this so is the best thing to do just open the throttle and brace yourself?
For many k's the road was fairly solidly packed with people, there were thousands. It must have been a festival as most were dressed in their best, many in tribal regalia and I saw the hilltribe style 'ball tossing' on the side.
It was a pleasant ride, mainly along river valleys but nothing incredibly spectacular.
Early afternoon bought me to the outskirts of Oudomxay where the road deteriorated and after a detour by the airport I found myself riding through the main street scouting out guest houses. I had heard one recommended but they didn't have wifi so I ended up at another just over the main road South of the bridge which seemed to double as a builders merchant. The entrance, lobby and room were bright and clean though so that would do.
I went for a walk and was struck by how Chinese the place was, with a several very Chinese looking hotels, one not quite finished surrounded by a new shopping plaza. Opposite, in another new plaza beyond a huge video screen showing what looked like old Vietnam war footage ptopaganda was the showpiece 'Charming Hotel' which was possibly the most upmarket I saw in Laos. So what the hell was it doing here?
For the evening meal I tried the recommended 'Kanya' nearby. Still feeling a bit queasy I went for Sweet & Sour chicken. I forgot the rice but it was massive and I couldn't finish it anyway. It was a bit too rich for me, more 'sweet' than 'sour' as if it had been made with honey or syrup but I was to learn that that was the Laos way. The place had a mostly open front with a cold breeze coming in so by the time had I finished I was nearly shivering. The town was now pretty dead so I went back to a chilly room where I had to wrap a blanket around me while reading. I reflected the place was dusty, dirty, cold and miserable, and never to pay for a night in advance again.
Next morning, off to scout out breakfast. I passed the fancy new square which had piles of rubbish dotted around, and noticed that on one was some discarded flypaper wit a dead rat and lizard firmly stuck to it. Oh well, at least it doesn't smell to much here! Wanting something more solid than noodle soup I ended up at the renowned 'Soupalin' 'restaurant'. It looked the part and I thought 'ahh, that's tonights meal sorted then' and ordered a pancake and coffee. Didn't work out too well though, the coffee was that vile Laos style made with sweet condensed milk and the pancake arrived dry and bare - that was it. I modified it a bit with some sugar but it was still one hell of a disappointment when you're used to the French ones with all the i Another coffee (without milk) and it came to 27kL - rethink on tonights meal in order I thought.
I spent the day wandering around, the high spot being the local market near the airport. It was the real deal, no 'walking street' stuff here. The thing that struck me was the amount of 'revolutionary' regalia, hats, stickers tee shirts etc bearing Che Guevara, Maoist and others I didn't recognise. One saw regularly, especially on vehicles resembled a 70's 'Dave Lee Travis'. I wish now I had picked some up but as it was the beginning of the trip and I had limited luggage capacity to spare I held off.
In the evening I dined at the posh 'Charming' (rooms 480kL), where I had a nice spicy Laos beef dish. Very courteous staff, nice food and out of the wind so contented and nearly warm. On my way back to the GH I passed the 'Dansevanh' hotel near the bridge and there was a massive wedding party going on. I had looked in earlier, rooms 120kL and American brekkie 15kLso that was on the cards for tomorrow morning.
After another chilly night I went back to the Dansevanh for the 'American' brekkie promising sausage, bacon, eggs, beans, tomato, toast, juice and coffee. The dining room looked like a bombed foodmarket but the bar seemed to have escaped the worst so I ordered from some reasonably fresh loking staff. The coffee arrived, then a plate of warm bread and two eggs. I spent a while trying to get over the fact that toast should be at least slightly brown, and in the meantime nothing else had arrived, so I got the menue and began pointing to the missing items. 'No hab - no hab - no hab...'. Not being able to face another non-breakfast I got up and walked out in a slightly unbelieving daze, expecting to be pursued by irate staff demanding payment.
No chefs with meat cleavers, or even clerks with staplers were folowing so I headed on to the 'Charming' once more. At last, a real brekkie, twice the price of the non-brekkie but a choice of Asian and Western including bacon, toast eggs, sausage, butter and jam etc.
It set me up for the day so I sidled back past the Dansevanh Pink Panther style, loaded up and headed South again.
The road to Oudomxay was narrow but tarmac and the main thing that regulated progress was that there were many villages strung along it with pigs, dogs, chickens and children milling around and randomly darting across. I kept the speed down to 30-50 kph but soon got fed up with slowing right down for the chickens as I'd heard they were fairly soft and simply exploded in a puff of feathers, also that they were impossible to actually hit. This might be true as I found if I slowed they would stay right in front of me but the faster I went the faster they moved. On a similar note I met a bloke who had wrecked his big bike when a dog ran out in front of him - although he had not actually hit it, just skidded off under braking. Not the first time I have heard this so is the best thing to do just open the throttle and brace yourself?
For many k's the road was fairly solidly packed with people, there were thousands. It must have been a festival as most were dressed in their best, many in tribal regalia and I saw the hilltribe style 'ball tossing' on the side.
It was a pleasant ride, mainly along river valleys but nothing incredibly spectacular.
Early afternoon bought me to the outskirts of Oudomxay where the road deteriorated and after a detour by the airport I found myself riding through the main street scouting out guest houses. I had heard one recommended but they didn't have wifi so I ended up at another just over the main road South of the bridge which seemed to double as a builders merchant. The entrance, lobby and room were bright and clean though so that would do.
I went for a walk and was struck by how Chinese the place was, with a several very Chinese looking hotels, one not quite finished surrounded by a new shopping plaza. Opposite, in another new plaza beyond a huge video screen showing what looked like old Vietnam war footage ptopaganda was the showpiece 'Charming Hotel' which was possibly the most upmarket I saw in Laos. So what the hell was it doing here?
For the evening meal I tried the recommended 'Kanya' nearby. Still feeling a bit queasy I went for Sweet & Sour chicken. I forgot the rice but it was massive and I couldn't finish it anyway. It was a bit too rich for me, more 'sweet' than 'sour' as if it had been made with honey or syrup but I was to learn that that was the Laos way. The place had a mostly open front with a cold breeze coming in so by the time had I finished I was nearly shivering. The town was now pretty dead so I went back to a chilly room where I had to wrap a blanket around me while reading. I reflected the place was dusty, dirty, cold and miserable, and never to pay for a night in advance again.
Next morning, off to scout out breakfast. I passed the fancy new square which had piles of rubbish dotted around, and noticed that on one was some discarded flypaper wit a dead rat and lizard firmly stuck to it. Oh well, at least it doesn't smell to much here! Wanting something more solid than noodle soup I ended up at the renowned 'Soupalin' 'restaurant'. It looked the part and I thought 'ahh, that's tonights meal sorted then' and ordered a pancake and coffee. Didn't work out too well though, the coffee was that vile Laos style made with sweet condensed milk and the pancake arrived dry and bare - that was it. I modified it a bit with some sugar but it was still one hell of a disappointment when you're used to the French ones with all the i Another coffee (without milk) and it came to 27kL - rethink on tonights meal in order I thought.
I spent the day wandering around, the high spot being the local market near the airport. It was the real deal, no 'walking street' stuff here. The thing that struck me was the amount of 'revolutionary' regalia, hats, stickers tee shirts etc bearing Che Guevara, Maoist and others I didn't recognise. One saw regularly, especially on vehicles resembled a 70's 'Dave Lee Travis'. I wish now I had picked some up but as it was the beginning of the trip and I had limited luggage capacity to spare I held off.
In the evening I dined at the posh 'Charming' (rooms 480kL), where I had a nice spicy Laos beef dish. Very courteous staff, nice food and out of the wind so contented and nearly warm. On my way back to the GH I passed the 'Dansevanh' hotel near the bridge and there was a massive wedding party going on. I had looked in earlier, rooms 120kL and American brekkie 15kLso that was on the cards for tomorrow morning.
After another chilly night I went back to the Dansevanh for the 'American' brekkie promising sausage, bacon, eggs, beans, tomato, toast, juice and coffee. The dining room looked like a bombed foodmarket but the bar seemed to have escaped the worst so I ordered from some reasonably fresh loking staff. The coffee arrived, then a plate of warm bread and two eggs. I spent a while trying to get over the fact that toast should be at least slightly brown, and in the meantime nothing else had arrived, so I got the menue and began pointing to the missing items. 'No hab - no hab - no hab...'. Not being able to face another non-breakfast I got up and walked out in a slightly unbelieving daze, expecting to be pursued by irate staff demanding payment.
No chefs with meat cleavers, or even clerks with staplers were folowing so I headed on to the 'Charming' once more. At last, a real brekkie, twice the price of the non-brekkie but a choice of Asian and Western including bacon, toast eggs, sausage, butter and jam etc.
It set me up for the day so I sidled back past the Dansevanh Pink Panther style, loaded up and headed South again.
