Ten Nation(alitie)s, Four Days, Doi Soi Malai

The Bigfella

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What's that, you say? Ten Nation(alitie)s? We will get to that.

We're just back from a good one - a trip up Doi Soi Malai. This isn't a big one, as mountains go, being only 1,629 metres tall. Not huge, but certainly worth doing.

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That's Bhumibol Dam down below - for the Aussies, it is four times the surface area of Warragamba Dam - at 300 square kilometres - with an almost identical dam wall height 154 metres vs the Aussie's 145 m. Big dam. The view from that rock is stunning, and I'd have taken another step or two out, but a couple of mates had just disentangled my left leg from my bike - and it wasn't working too well. I busted the chain guard when my foot got sucked into the swingarm too.... but more on my faceplant later.

Ten Nation(alitie)s? So our Operations Manager, Deere, and myself put the ride proposal up and when we set off, every participant was from a different nation.

Ten committed, but only eight nations actually went. A Kiwi dropped out after a positive Covid swab, an Italian booked - with specific bike requirements which we set up - but he hasn't been heard from since. Those who went were : Ian - me, an Aussie; Deere - Thai; Neil, English; Stu, Scottish; Pol, Belgian, Larkin, American; James, Canadian. We awarded honorary national status to the bikes as they were all Japanese (well sort of, if we can call CRFs Japanese). We had Stu on an Africa Twin the first day then a CRF from Day 2). Neil was on his T7 Yammie - but he had to return to Chiang Mai after the first night out. The rest were CRFs - mostly ours, but Pol was on his own Rally 250.

We did our usual back roads exit from Chiang Mai - local roads that are scenic and fun to ride, rather than mixing it with the commercial traffic and traffic lights on the 108. We had an early, light lunch at a small village just before we hit the dirt, southwest of Hot - and it was into the hills between Chiang Mai and Omkoi. This area used to be a major opium growing region and there's still patches - but you won't see them, nor encounter problems with the locals flowing from that.

We go through this village fairly regularly and it is good to see the people have emerged from the shadows as Covid diminishes. Last July and October, we didn't see a single face in this village. This lady gave me permission to grab an image (it's a clip from the GoPro)

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We were almost through the dirt when Neil discovered his navigation phone missing. Have I ever mentioned that I hate phones being used for nav purposes? Four of us backtracked, looking for it. After near on an hour, I called it and we blasted back through the dirt, with Neil continuing the search and sweeping around the sealed road loop to catch back up to us in Omkoi. A word of advice. If one is in the region, one has to be careful how one pronounces that town name. Thai is a tonal language and if you pronounce it the wrong way it means "suck" and - well you can guess the second word. Let's just say "dick".

Coffee and a snack later, it was time for the most delightful roads. I've run video of pretty much all of it... but it will take time to extract some shots of it. Here's a couple. It is the 3054 now - but is on the North Thailand Onroad / Offroad map but as an unsealed road. It's been done for a while, but because a couple of the bridges got washed out last year, the official opening was delayed until last week. It isn't on Google maps yet.

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That's Stu in the lead on his Africa Twin, me next on a CRF 300L and then Pol. I'd stopped and then decided to try and reel Stu back in. He said it himself "next time on this road, I'll take the CRF, its much better when you need to avoid things". He'd met us in Omkoi, as he lives near our overnight stop - so he got to do this delightful road both ways in one day. The smaller bikes are just so much more fun in Thailand. I haven't ridden my Ducati for months and I often take a 250 or 300 in preference to the 500s. I agree with Stu - its a perfect road on a CRF.

A leg stretch and getting a bit of culture, up in the hills

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Another leg stretch and checking out a potential campsite on the river

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Pretty sure that was before the start of the 3054... Just before there, I'd been filming Pol through the mountains and a small Iguana had committed hari kari. With no traffic for miles... it chose just the wrong moment to dash across the road. Bugger.

More later.... but suffice to say that with the time lost looking for a phone, the last little bit of day 1 was done in the dark. Only 20 or so km, but we felt it.
 
Here's a phone pano from Larkin of the 3054

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Here's one of me fueling up from a drum in one of the villages. Over the four days, I managed to lower the long term fuel consumption figure from 30.5 km / litre to 30.2. It came back up a bit on Day 4, which was all sealed roads.

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Its yet another of the old dirt trails that have been lost to concrete... but in this case, the result is fantastic. Traffic is light, but the road is narrow and good luck riding it with panniers that stick out into the next province... the trucks claim more than their half of the road.

Oh yeah, it's steep too.

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It was dark by the time we got to that spot - but it wasn't far to go to Mae Ramat, our overnight stop.

550 baht got us nice aircon rooms in a very Thai resort.

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Dinner was also good value, across the road at this place, where we also had a leisurely 9am breakfast

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The owner had a brilliant bonsai collection... all outside. They wouldn't stay there long in the countries that most of us come from. Here, I leave my helmet, with GoPro on the mirrors all the time... no problems. Gotta love Thailand.

For those interested - dinner was wild boar, breakfast was squid. Both good. We drank him out of beer - no, not over breakfast.

Our digs were right next to the Tesco Lotus and we stocked up there in the morning on the essentials for our overnight camp. My choice was a large Hong Thong... carrying beer and ice being problematic. Deere got the eggs, having already packed the veggies and chili. I won't embarrass the American who bought Johnny Walker Red by naming him. No prizes for guessing who brought this beauty

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Jaysus wept... I just googled the price of that... Thanks mate... it was lovely.

Let's do some stats. Day 1 saw us in the saddle for just over 7 hours, of which about 3 was in the dirt. We did 352 km with 7,755 metres of ascent and 7,874 metres of descent. Some of that was bloody steep.

That shot above, where we're going down the switchbacks, I boiled the front brakes on the new CRF. This bit of road. Same spot, with Deere doing a video of us going past - that's James going into the corner on my modified CRF250. Note the safety barrier. It's about 100 mm high.

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To be fair, we were attacking the descent. As we stopped at a T intersection, the brake lever went straight to the bars. The bike is new, had 9,000 km on it. I'm less than impressed by that. We will change the fluid on all new bikes from now on.

I've been boiling brakes for 45 years or more now. The first one I can remember is a fast (ie throttle, brake, repeat) trip down the Dorrigo in my first company car - a 4.1 litre TD auto Cortina. The brake pedal hit the floor and a little red light on the dash said "Brake Fail". No Sh!t Sherlock..... The worst I've had was a 6 berth motorhome in Ireland - ex wife in the passenger seat and the three kids on board. The engine actually knocked the brake line off the master cylinder and there was no dual circuit. No brakes. Handbrake on full, down the gears, revving the tits off it... through a roundabout at speed, finally coming to a stop. Thanks FIAT - and worth noting, it was a brand new vehicle.

Since I'm digressing - let's talk bikes and brakes. We've had some dreadful experiences with some local mechanics - including factory dealer shops - so we've taken all brake work and most servicing in-house. We now use EBC pads and Dot 5.1 fluids AND we rebuild the calipers with pad changes. We also run brake (and other, eg chain) maintenance courses - generally as part of the Ulysses Club Thailand social meets. One thing worth mentioning when talking about boiled brakes and levers going to the stop with nothing happening. It doesn't mean you have no braking - it just means you have to work for it. If you pump the pedal rapidly, you will compress the boiled gases enough to get braking effort. It might be five rapid pumps... but it will work. Trouble is, as soon as you release the lever / pedal, you are back to square one... and you need to pump like hell again for the next application. Best to pull over and let 'em cool down. The most common reasons for brake failure (boiled fluid variety) is riding the brakes - so the pads are in continuous contact with the disk; and old brake fluid - brake fluid is hygroscopic - it absorbs moisture from the air - and its a humid environment up here. Change the fluid often, and don't ride the brakes unnecessarily.

Day 2 was short. From Mae Ramat, we headed up the 1175 - another delightful "B" road, again, best suited to small bikes, to the National Park entrance. Deere got us all signed in - a bit of a process, as the forms are all in Thai - so we were happy to leave that to him - and it was up the hill. Delightful weather. Clear skies - with just a few fires providing a little bit of smoke. Compared to years gone by, the smoky season just didn't exist this year. 86 km and 2 hours 45 in the saddle with 3,357 metres gained and 2,355 lost. The ride in had some challenges - including my faceplant, but a lot of fun.
 
Excellent write-up Ian. Gorgeous ride, looking forward to doing that one again; I'll make sure to bring higher caliber whiskey.

Here's some highlights of the trip:
 
Kumi, that was fantastic!
Thanks for sharing it.
I hope many get to view it and absorb what your video captured.
That ride had everything; even riding through the clouds after 29 minutes.
Some (to me) challenging looking tracks too.
Note the action at the bend in the road at 1m 33s !!

I hope to see more from you on Ride Asia.
 
Thanks 2wheels and kumi. There's more to come. Much more. If you want more of the video action, we're running a 2 hour video of kumi's in the bar at the moment (between replays of the MotoGP qualifying... which was on at 1am overnight). He cut a reel to music that's one hour road, one hour dirt. I'm in discussions with Josh, the Ulysses Club Thailand Ride Co-ordinator about running the road sections of this trip as a Club run. We were thinking soon... but, probably best not to do it over Songkran. The question is whether to do it as two days or three. The minimum ride would be two days of 340 - 375 km or so each. Best methinks to do a bit less on the first day, a short second day with more stops and then belt up the fabulous new road on day three. A work in progress.

Speaking of the new road. It isn't on Google.... and the signage isn't helpful - but we know the way. I'm doing a short video on it. Here's a shot I put on the RA Facebook page... pointing out why I don't like panniers.

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That's the width of the road for about 80 km.
 
This gives a feel for the conditions up on the Doi. The -82% gradient is where I had my faceplant.

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That -82% can be taken with a slight grain of salt. But it pretty much matches with the figures on the return journey.

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Garmin calculates these gradients using barometric pressure mapped against GPS, I believe.... but given these two pretty much match, you get the idea. Its steep in places. Even Deere had an off - one each day actually, but I kept mine down to one

After his off, it was discovered the eggs had come off his bike. He went back, got them and carried them the rest of the way like this.

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We had ready-to-cook scrambled eggs when we got to the campsite. Half the eggs made it in whole. Half didn't, but nothing was wasted.

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OK - so, let's get my faceplant out of the way. X marks the spot

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Looks innocuous, but it wasn't. It was that really steep area in the gradient graph above. I took the lead, got a large boulder that bumped me sideways... that threw me a bit, another rock and bang... face first over the bars... except that I wasn't. My left boot got sucked into the swingarm by the rear wheel and I was stuck fast... thigh pressing the horn button and gravity pulling the whole untidy mess down the hill. It took the guys a minute to get to me - which entailed a bit of hollering on my part. It was hurting and my leg was twisted. I wear Matrix knee braces... which I have a love / hate relationship with, but they most certainly saved my knee there. I don't know how I didn't break bones.

Stu had to get under the bike... select neutral and wind the rear wheel backwards to feed my boot out from between the wheel and the swingarm. I'd busted the chain guard in the process.

Free at last. This hill is a lot steeper than it looks... and it went a fair way.

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I stood up... and immediately careened down the hill... unable to stop. A 120kg barely guided bomb heading downrange, with Deere in hot pursuit, trying to stop an impending disaster.

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Luckily I got a handful of Crofton weed about 15 metres down the hill and was able to slow down and assess the damage. Nothing major, and fortunate, as we were beyond 4x4 range and it'd have been a bugger of a job getting out. We'd had quite a range of conditions coming in, but not much of it was wet. Plenty of rocky stuff

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In some areas it was quite a good surface... when dry

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We'd just clipped into a couple of clouds around that area. That was near the Ranger station. We stopped for a chat there, but we were only a quarter of the way to where we'd camp. One of the Rangers let me check out his CZ Shadow.

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Tidy little piece

A couple of km past there, at about 9.25 km in, we reached the highest point - and pulled out the bottle of nice scotch for a celebratory nip - shared from Deere's tin mug. No Glencairn whisky glasses up here.

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Further along, we got to the open ridges. That's about where the 4x4 access was blocked. There was a construction camp just behind us when we took this shot... and after that it was single track. We'd passed about 4 utes on the way up to here... and weren't to see any the next day. Last time Stu was up here, three years ago, with Grant, on a couple of my CRFs, they'd come across a 4x4 that had rolled - which didn't work out too well for a guy who had been traveling in the back. His body was still on the track when they went past.

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It is fantastic up there

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That low cloud was a bit of a worry. We'd heard that Chiang Mai, which is about 180km north of us as the crow flies, was getting a major dump of rain, with the moat road flooded in parts.

The thought of rain wasn't going to stop us

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These little Hondas do a sterling job. Here's me hammering up one of the hills. Should'a changed gears, but it was steep... and....

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End of the track. This was actually a couple of km past the end of the track on the GPS... and well beyond anything recognised by Google... and was a reasonable place, sheltered from the wind.

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Deere pitched his tent - the silver one, far right, above - (mine is the small green one, left of centre) and then got into the cooking. He picked some wild baby eggplant and boiled it up

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Stu had brought along a few kilos of pork shoulder... and a nice little folding grill

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He'd brought all the trimmings too. First class dining.

Larkin had bought some frozen pork meals at the 7-11 that morning... so all in all, we ate well, including the pre-scrambled eggs. We certainly drank well....

We woke to discover moisture on top of the tents. The clouds had descended and it started to drizzle. Yeah.... that's my riding jacket on the bars of my bike. Oops.. Rookie mistake. Pack everything before opening the rum and scotch bottles

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A nice trip report, you were lucky you werent riding solo
 
This gives a feel for the conditions up on the Doi. The -82% gradient is where I had my faceplant.

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That -82% can be taken with a slight grain of salt. But it pretty much matches with the figures on the return journey.

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Garmin calculates these gradients using barometric pressure mapped against GPS, I believe.... but given these two pretty much match, you get the idea. Its steep in places. Even Deere had an off - one each day actually, but I kept mine down to one

After his off, it was discovered the eggs had come off his bike. He went back, got them and carried them the rest of the way like this.

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We had ready-to-cook scrambled eggs when we got to the campsite. Half the eggs made it in whole. Half didn't, but nothing was wasted.

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I was wondering what was in that plastic bag as I watched Deere combat the jungle bits.
Quite a bold move to attempt to carry eggs that way.
But scrambled would be OK.
 
I was wondering what was in that plastic bag as I watched Deere combat the jungle bits.
Quite a bold move to attempt to carry eggs that way.
But scrambled would be OK.

He had them on top of his pack, but lost them in an "off". Larkin pointed out they were back down the track a bit... so Deere recovered them. All good. It would have been a tragedy to lose that scotch though....
 
Plenty more to come...

We packed, despite me trying to convince the guys to wait for the clouds to lift. Larkin had work the next day and wanted to get going.... and it was over 350 km to go. We stalled him until about 9:30am. Here's me giving a nature talk. That's a Bee-eater's nest in the bank. I saw one just up the trail, but none near this couple of nests. There's half a dozen different species found here, unlike Oz, where I've only seen the Rainbow Bee-eater

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We dropped tyres to 12psi and set off gingerly

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Wet grass and wet red clay. Just lovely.

It wasn't long and we had the tyres down to 6psi. Deere did a sterling job, as always..... Here's Larkin feeding him a clay diet on one of the climbs.

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Of the six bikes, Deere rode three up that particular hill and pushed the others. I managed to stay upright that day.... but did need a bit of a push occasionally. The track was quite rutted - up to a metre deep in places and with me being the heaviest rider, I was sliding around a bit. I got stuck in one rut and it took a lift from Deere to get me moving again. To say that I was wondering about my sanity would be an understatement. I age-qualified for the old age pension recently.
 
The ride out turned a planned three day trip into four days for me. It took us four and a quarter hours to get off the dirt... which was something like 25 km. I was a bit knackered... partly because I was riding a too small for me bike.

Before that though - a recap with some additional photos from @wobblycat - there was no skimping on food prep

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That bottle of red label was NOT mine, nor Deere's. I had no part in its consumption. Instead, I supported the local sugarcane industry and enjoyed a little of the single malt. The case to the left of photo was the case for the charcoal grill that Stu brought along. 600 baht off Lazada. Bargain.

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Tall tales and true of mammarian feats were being told

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There's no truth in the rumour that we had a fire in the National Park. That's a USB lantern...

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The views on the way out were stunning... through gaps in the clouds

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Also no truth in the rumour that we stickered a couple of spots on the way out

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This'd be me, checking out where I'd faceplanted on the way in, whilst someone up ahead received assistance.

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Larkin had to get back for work... but he's a sub-junior... 32 years old. Pol was worried that we were just going to blast up the super highway after staying overnight, so he headed back with Larkin.

Stu lives down that way, so he headed straight home.

I pulled rank on Deere and insisted we stay another night. I was knackered. As it turned out, so was he. James tagged along too, stopping to take photos but zoomed in on where we found rooms.
 
Before heading off in our respective directions, we stopped at the coffee shop... and were devestated to discover it closed. The views there are stunning, both behind the counter and out over the balcony. Damn. Oh well... tyres went from 6 psi to about 25 to get us moving.

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It was another 65 km, on the road, to Tak. I was wishing we'd stopped halfway along... as I really was knackered. I was on a standard CRF 300L - which is a bit short for me. James, who is short, was on my long-legged modified 250L. Dunno how that happened... but it was my tour, so blame me. By the time we got to Tak, my legs were protesting and I was having trouble downshifting. As we cruised down beside the Ping River, I rested my chin on the instruments..... and then, couldn't lift my head. Seriously... I was stuck. Several short sharp bursts on the horn got Deere's attention and he came to the rescue. Never had this before... and I couldn't find the cause... but, what had happened was the brake line came over the top of my chin-mounted GoPro - and that was that. I was searching for what was catching the bottom of the helmet - but the problem was higher. Dog tired....

Our preferred hotels weren't available - one was in business but no staff to be found, another, a big one - was an open ghost town - abandoned. We found a more remote one - two rooms for 900 baht . Then... another funny thing happened. I got the hotel to call in a massage. I know that conjures up smirks when Thailand and massage are mentioned in the same breath, but with my state of bodily degradation, there was certainly only one thing on my mind - pain relief. She was giving far from the best massage I've had - I opened my eyes to see her checking her phone a few times - not impressed. When I opened my eyes and saw that she was rubbing one out.... okaaaay. Haven't seen that before. Must've been my studdly body that did it. I'm glad she enjoyed herself. Seriously though, she was a stunningly beautiful woman, if you stripped away 20+kg of excess. I guess she misses the attention she used to get before she let herself go. A most unusual adventure.

No photos of her and no, I don't have her phone number (or want it)... but here's a shot of my torture machine at the hotel

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Then, I actually was a bad boy. We went out for dinner. My choice of footwear was boots or flipflops. Yeah - and no helmet. We ended up doing 20km in the night-time bugs with me squinting to keep 'em out of my eyes - and teeth - before getting a suitable restaurant. A few of Deere's favourites have fallen victim to Covid. We ended up at a shabu restaurant - popular with the locals.

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As those in Thailand know, we have some rather bizarre rules here at present (yeah, still). Alcohol sales are prohibited at restaurants unless they are in a "blue" tourist zone. No such zone here, so it was beers in a paper cup. It was an early night after dinner and I wish I could say I slept well. Damn hard mattress. Ugh.

Here's a couple more shots from the trail that I just picked up from James (@wobblycat)

Traction

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No traction

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I fell victim to one similar rut - tried to blast past on the sloping side trails and slid into the rut. They were up to a metre deep... and we all got caught at times.
 
James was "less than kind" to "my" bike at times. This is my preferred bike - it's Ohlins-equipped, big tank, EJK, exhaust, etc. I can't recall dumping it myself... but I can't say that about customers.

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I've never worried about scratches on the dirt bikes. That's what they're for... but the main rental companies in town have stopped allowing CRFs (and other bikes) on the dirt. I suspect that it is less about the scratches (plastics are cheap) and more about the clutches. When we're on a tour like this, we can monitor and modify clutch use behaviour if necessary. When out of sight, it's a different matter. Despite some very gnarly terrain here, we had no clutch deaths on this trip. Clutches need lovin' too folks.

But, enough of that - we had another 334 km to go. Off to Bhumibol Dam first for a look

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I rode down the access road to the boats for a look, as it was fairly quiet. No photos... just more video :-) It was down a bit, to be expected at the end of the dry season

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We took back roads home - up to the delightful first section of the 106. It gets a fair bit of truck traffic and it was a bit slippery, with a polished surface, some old oil trails and some dust.... all part of the fun. A few gentle slides as we chased each other through the twisties. Lunch at a favourite noodle shop in Li, then up the 1184. We lost Deere off the tail and I went back to see what was up. The second chain guard casualty of the weekend. This is just a fatigue fracture on the fully tarted Rally.

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Seems to be a mis-match between form and function there.

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We were in no hurry to make miles. The bodies were sore.

Another stop beside a dam - this one just out of Lamphun

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Here's the trip stats


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I'm doing a video of the new road. I will link it when I get it on YouTube.
 
Plenty more to come...

We packed, despite me trying to convince the guys to wait for the clouds to lift. Larkin had work the next day and wanted to get going.... and it was over 350 km to go. We stalled him until about 9:30am. Here's me giving a nature talk. That's a Bee-eater's nest in the bank. I saw one just up the trail, but none near this couple of nests. There's half a dozen different species found here, unlike Oz, where I've only seen the Rainbow Bee-eater

View attachment 90162

We dropped tyres to 12psi and set off gingerly

View attachment 90163

Wet grass and wet red clay. Just lovely.

It wasn't long and we had the tyres down to 6psi. Deere did a sterling job, as always..... Here's Larkin feeding him a clay diet on one of the climbs.

View attachment 90164

View attachment 90165

Of the six bikes, Deere rode three up that particular hill and pushed the others. I managed to stay upright that day.... but did need a bit of a push occasionally. The track was quite rutted - up to a metre deep in places and with me being the heaviest rider, I was sliding around a bit. I got stuck in one rut and it took a lift from Deere to get me moving again. To say that I was wondering about my sanity would be an understatement. I age-qualified for the old age pension recently.
Deere is a gem.
 
"As we cruised down beside the Ping River, I rested my chin on the instruments..... and then, couldn't lift my head. Seriously... I was stuck. Several short sharp bursts on the horn got Deere's attention and he came to the rescue. Never had this before... and I couldn't find the cause... but, what had happened was the brake line came over the top of my chin-mounted GoPro"

Well, that's a new one!!
Those brake cables are very high but, I believe, can be modified.

A fantastic adventure and report Ian.
 
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