Sop Moei & Salawin National Park

The Bigfella

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Dirt – 3 days – 3 riders all from Ulysses Club Thailand. First weekend in November.

It’s been said that there’s not many dirt riders in the Ulysses Club Thailand. That's just not true. The Club put in a lot of effort a few years back to encourage dirt riders to join – and we’ve got dirt specialist guys like Wheelie Pete, Shawn, the two Erics, Larkin, Charles, Stu, Darryl, and of course, Deere. Brenton is interested and I’m sure there’s a few more that I’ve missed here and there’s plenty of non-members who’ve joined us on dirt rides, guys like Neil, but Club dirt rides have been few and far between for a while.

At the Wednesday social a couple of weeks back, Larkin & Deere hatched a plan to go camping on the border river between Thailand & Myanmar. The Salween River is a special one, originating from the Tibetan Highlands and flowing 3,300 kilometres into the Andaman Sea. It’s a cold bastard, fast flowing and muddy.

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It was to be a two-day ride – aiming for a point in the Sop Moei area, down on the river. It didn’t happen like that. I got invited along and despite a lack of ride fitness (no dirt bike rides for at least 15 months), I dragged out the Forma boots and my faded old KLIM pants and made it a threesome for the ride. We bolted from Chiang Mai at sparrowfart, had a quick 7-11 breakfast and PTT coffee on the way. Topped off the tanks in Hot and had an early lunch in Mae Sariang, having registered 120 on the GPS. Too long away from small town Thai food - I threw in a mouthful of Nam Pla and regretted it... but only one fish bone stuck in the throat - quickly dealt with by following it with sticky rice

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Then it was down the 105 to Sop Moei and onto the 3004… some nice concrete and steep hills.

We turned onto the dirt just after Le Kho. I used age as a privilege and took a pee whilst Deere and Larkin dropped tyre pressures (more on that later). We didn’t get far. About 6km in, we’d turned down the track that was to take us to the refugee camp and on to the river. Deere called it as a no go when we hit the treed area – it was heavily rutted, rocky and, once into the trees, the red clay was wet and slippery… and no locals had been through – the lack of tyre tracks in conditions like that is always a good clue to be cautious.

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Heading back up, I threw it away – or, more to the point if you watch the video that Larkin has posted, it threw me – sideways, hard onto my hip. I was definitely rusty, and whilst trying to get some momentum up on the steep hill, just 30 metres from the top, bang, I went down hard, albeit at a very slow pace, in an off I reckon I should have saved. Its at 6:20 on Larkin’s video, which I will post a link to. Riding like a rookie - knees out, no control. Got a bruised hip out of it, despite the D30 armour in my KLIM pants… and worse, twisted my lower back.


It was back up the 3004 to Sae Mu and then off on the dirt (mud) towards Kua Huai To. Plenty of sights along the way

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We discovered our preferred homestay place, where Deere had stayed on one of his scouting rides five months before, to be overgrown and devoid of humans.

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Never mind, there’s a commercial campsite just up the hill. 100 baht for a campsite, 150 in one of their tents. They had beer and ice. Sold. We’d passed three truckloads of Thais, mostly women, from down south who were up here on a tour – and we’d had some banter with them as they struggled through some of the bogs… so it was a friendly campsite. Oh, and the site owner had a BBQ setup for us. We had plenty of both beer and food and enjoyed the sunset. We heard a few gunshots from over in Myanmar, including a couple after midnight.

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I scored a Thai massage from the village expert – 100 baht, on the ground at the campsite. I tipped him an extra 50 baht, which apparently made him happy, because he was waving to us as we went through the village in the morning.

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The night sky was simply stunning, with a good supply of flickering fireflies too. Come morning, the Thais were chatting away in their tents from 5am, but that was fine. They had a wide array of costumes for posed shots overlooking the valley with their well-equipped official photographer. I suspect they were well moneyed. They were happy when the farang got in on the photos.
 
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Pi in the sky

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After a damn fine cooked breakfast, we struck camp and headed to a school at Klo Se Lo.

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Deere had been here on a scouting ride five months earlier and seen the kids drawing maps in the mud. He’d gone out and bought them some laminated maps of the world, Asia, and the Thai provinces… and double-sided tape. How he got them to the school intact is beyond me. He’d had one off, of sorts, the day before too – he ran off the narrow track into the bank beside the road… which caused much merriment. The kids – and teachers – were most impressed with the maps.

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It had been drizzling until then and I’d been riding like an old grannie again. All over the place, not hitting the points I was aiming for and worse, locking up all the time on the downhills…. and some of them were damn steep, with huge drop-offs to the side. One particularly gnarly steep downhill on a bifurcated concrete track that was covered with wet, green, slimy moss had me catching up to Deere, locked up for extended stretches and almost crashing. I pulled up for a tyre pressure check. 12 in front. Good. 26 in back. Not good. Dropped it to 14 and suddenly my riding improved. My fault for interrupting the tyre checks the day before.

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Those muddy shots above were from the ride on the way in, but they help explain the next bit....

We pulled up for a break in Mae Sam Laep and I was knackered. I asked the question – “what’s ahead, and what if I just go to Mae Sariang and wait?” I should have been a bit more insistent. Oh – it’s just 20 km or so easy dirt here then a 17km link across and into Mae Sariang. OK, off we went. My battery (yeah, mine, not the bike’s) was starting to run low… and I was drawing on stamina reserves. We diverted in to see the old border police station. Well worth seeing. Built in 1901, closed in 1967 after a police officer was shot dead there from the Burmese side. Amazing building. Heavy hardwood 5” / 125mm thick, or more… perhaps 6” even. Rifle ports cut through the heavy timber. Lots of batshit too.

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Into Ban Tha Ta Fang, to find the shops all shut.

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OK, onto the link section.

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Holy stuff this Batman. Single track up the river bank. Steep climbs up the riverbank, narrow track, trees to be gently helped around, bike at a lean… with a 2 metre drop into the river if you get it wrong. MUTINY. This was bread and butter enduro stuff… but the prospect of 17 km of that, with me missing aiming points, stamina dropped to 5 – 10%. Nope. Not happening.

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Deere scouted ahead for 5 minutes and came back and agreed… turn back. Funnily enough, a customer of ours, Ray from the Netherlands tried from the other end on one of our hire bikes, a CRF300, a day later… he got to the same waist-deep (at which point he stopped checking) crossing that had turned Deere back. He turned back too.

We headed back to Mae Sam Laep, grabbed some dinner and high-tailed it into Mae Sariang. Stopped at the PT to fuel Larkin up, clean his headlight and send him on the Chiang Mai on his own, with a 7am work start beckoning. Love the friendly coffee shop staff there.

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Deere pulled his usual rabbit out of a hat and surprised me with the Inbox hotel in Mae Sariang. Two rooms, 600 baht each. New place, very comfortable. I put up a separate report on this place in Thailand info.

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First port of call… the massage place to get my back worked on – closed, but Deere doesn’t take no for an answer, and they were soon there, working on us both. The old dear who did my massage was absolutely brilliant. Dinner was at the Inthira restaurant. Not bad. Chatted to a farang doing the MHS on a 500X…. and did the same again the next morning with another farang when we went down to Above the Sea for brekkie.

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After a leisurely start, we belted up the 108 and were home for lunch on Monday.

There are plans afoot for further camping rides. Deere’s been back at the school within a week with some friends riding Vespas and with further donations from Rider’s Corner…. But I’m waiting for drier weather.

Let’s get dirty.
 
Excellent stuff, congrats guys. 👍
Great video by Larkin too.
I enjoyed the interaction with the locals and seeing locals on those tracks, sometimes two up, on their little scooters. Impressive.

Wet clay and bifurcated concrete tracks ..... both are my nemisis 🤕
 
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