Search for singletrack - 2UKLX

alexuk

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2011
Crs and I just got back from Laos
Here's the route we took
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We both had to go to Vientiane so Chris went on his modified KLX150 and I took my Klx250.
 
Yes, went downriver from Huey Xai, took a boat across the Mekong and rode on to Muang Nguen the first day.
Day2 went on the new road to Xayaboury, Day3 through the national park to Paklai, and then followed the Mekong to Vientiane on Day 4.
A couple of days in VTE for visas then Day5 back up Mekong a bit to Phialat, then main hiway up to Kasi, new road to Muang Nan and on to Luang Prabang.
Day 6, the loop we did down the mwkong with don,where we got stuck.
Day7 took boat from LP upriver to Ban Lathan and on to Oudomxai.
Day 8 went from there to Nale,then onto Vieng Poukha and back to Huey Xai.
Chris went home next day and I went up Mekong to Xiengkok, then down to V.Poukha via Ban Long the next day and back to Huey Xai
 
Well you sure covered some KM's on the trip just waiting for the pictures mate :hmm
 
Part 1

We left at Chiang Kong about lunchtime,first to to Departure, to be told that we had to go to immigration at the police station about 2 kms back down the road. maybe because we only had copies of our green books. It only took 5 minutes there and 200bt to get TM2 filled in and the Temporary Export forms issued.
Then another km out of town to fill up the tanks.
Back to Departure, the guy took our forms, and asked for 200bt. We told him we paid already at the police station. I was surprised that he didnt give us back any paperwork, and asked him if we would need it to reenter thailand, he said No, and I checked with arrivals, but they said no too.

So we got on the ferry there (500bt each) to Laos, and went to wait, for the customs office people on the ramp, to get back from lunch.We filled in forms at the larger building there, paid 100bt each(??),took them to the table beneath, then went to the small immigration office back up the steps there.Only took total 20 minutes
Lady at the insurance office next door must have seen us,so went home early at 4pm

We drove to Customs a km away and got our visas, $35 plus $1 as it was after 4pm.
Then to the Oudomphone2 GH and wanted an early start. One of the buildings was being demolished to build some new ones

Day 1 200km
Got insurance ,then breakfast and a baguette for lunch next door,paid too much, still trying to convert baht to kip. Left town about 10am and rode down the bank of the Mekong to the boat at Hatsa at 1230.
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50000kip for the boat, two little boats with some planks across,and were soon on the south side taking dirt roads most of the way to the 2W Muang Nguen road .
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Village girls/women carrying wood
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Went to a modern GH in Muang Nguen 80000kip for a fan room by 5pm
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Day 2
0930 start, rode to Hongsa for breakfast,
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and after turned south on a new road then southeast,
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total 160km to get to Xayaboury at 4pm.
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Meky GH was full so we found a small one by the river which was cheap,(Silvanin??) and too popular later on. Looked around the town and ate at a large restaurant by the bridge on the main road

Day 3 160km
10am again, rode the 50km down Route4 to Phiang? Nam Pouy?? and turned off to the Park. There was a lot of singletrack when I did this route a year or two ago, now you can drive through in a 4wd.Had to cross a string barrier on the way in, noone there so I moved it to get the bikes past as a guy came out of the small camp,said hello and he watched us go.
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Still very remote though, didnt see anyone else for a long time..
In Paklai we ate at Sandee and stayed at the badminton hotel, Duang Chai Phet,clean tidy and good

Day 4 217km
The usual 10am start, Crossed the Mekong on the ferry near Paklai and took the main road across country to Xanakham to join the Mekong again and we were in Vientiane before 3pm. I was worried cos last time it was a horrid mess of dust and big lorries, now it is almost finished and ready for tarmac and no problem.Very little traffic and scenic We stopped a couple of times for food and fotos,
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Will have to be a big bag, I got to eat and sleep yet
Meanwhile....
[video=youtube_share;FDfYN9nENww]http://youtu.be/FDfYN9nENww[/video]
 
"We left at Chiang Kong about lunchtime,first to to Departure, to be told that we had to go to immigration at the police station about 2 kms back down the road. maybe because we only had copies of our green books. It only took 5 minutes there and 200bt to get TM2 filled in and the Temporary Export forms issued."

The Immigration office next to the police station in town is where you alway get your TM2 form form now, 200 baht is the fee i paid last time.

"Then another km out of town to fill up the tanks.
Back to Departure, the guy took our forms, and asked for 200bt. We told him we paid already at the police station. I was surprised that he didnt give us back any paperwork, and asked him if we would need it to reenter thailand, he said No, and I checked with arrivals, but they said no too."

After you got your forms then you needed to go up the stairs on the ramp to get your customs export paper handing over copies of your green book and picture page of your passport, not sure what the number is but you should not have to pay for it. Then hand all you stuff to Immigration and you done, again i have never paid immigration on exit, not sure why they wanted the 200, never been asked before.

"So we got on the ferry there (500bt each) to Laos, and went to wait, for the customs office people on the ramp, to get back from lunch.We filled in forms at the larger building there, paid 100bt each(??),took them to the table beneath, then went to the small immigration office back up the steps there.Only took total 20 minutes"

100 baht is the usual fee from the small immigration office at the top of the steps Laos side then you should have gone down a ways to the customs counter with the picture of the new bridge setup next to you and pay them the fee (cant recall how much) they should then have given you a green and a white paper, the white paper to be handed to the guy to the guy in the wooden hut down the steps from the customs on your left. Then down the road on your bike to the immigration and if your lucky get your stamp quick and pay your 1,500 baht and your off.

Sounds like they were all having a brain fart or all needed extra tea money !!!!
 
Awesome Alex. How was the stretch to Kasi? Is it graded flat or still a fun high speed romp through sweepers?
 
Hi BnT,
still a fun runn in twisties. Just need a faster bike and less luggage
ghosts.jpg
Whats goin on here?
From our favourite Sandee restaurant in Paklai
 
Looking at the map Alex, did you do that single track from Nam Nga over the mountains into Ban Lathane on the Mekong then get a ferry down to Luang Probang?
 
Pounce, we did that route from Luang Prabang to Lathan in a boat, then up to Oudomxai.
Its mostly new road now

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Heres a foto from Chris of the procession
 
Went to a modern GH in Muang Nguen 80000kip for a fan room by 5pm
View attachment 16205

Note, the restaurant here was v. expensive - better to stay in Hongsa, I reckon.

Random pics:

Alex off to play in Laos again...

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Alex trying to find another dodgy bridge to ride over...

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Alex wanted to swim the Mekong too... I wasn't so keen - maybe Beerlao levels were running low.

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Good trip but, unfortunately for us, seems like there's capital going into infrastructure development in Laos - hence the disappearing single track... S.E. Asia on the climb.

Well, gave me a chance to get better on the gravel / loose dirt unpaved road stuff. A dust mask is very much essential!
 
Your right about that Chris, things are changing rapidly in Laos, what were good trails are now highways, hopefully the now goat trails will open up to us so we can continue our fun.
 
Nice photo's Chris, it's quite alarming the speed of graded truck road creation in Laos, the single track is getting eaten up.
 
Part 2
Day1 375km
Vientiane to Luang Prabang

We took the Mekong road back West for an hour to turn off north at the Gas station.This takes you up on another new road through
Phialat and back onto the 13 at Houay-leut.
We decided to go for Luang Prabang for the night, so we carried on up the 13 to Vang Vieng, smooth tarmac and got some petrol and kip
there,but forgot the takeaway. and rode up to Kasi where we turned off for the new road to Muang Nan. It didnt look like a new road
to begin with, but was tarmac, and a few km later we were up in the mountains all the way, on new gravel/dirt wide highway.
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There were a few roadworks to pass but very little traffic and stunning views. Plenty of opportunity to practice on the loose surface. I
was following the GPS no problem, but didnt see Muang Nan. Last time I did this road I missed the turnoff, but there was a town with
shops and everything, I didnt see it at all this time, and really have no idea where this road joined the Xayaboury/LP road. I
vaguely recognised the village I broke down in about 4 years ago.

We stopped at a shack that had gas, but they wanted 16k/litre so I didnt bother. I seem to have about 2.5l left on my klx250 when the warning light comes on.50km
We got to LP, the usual places were asking 120k kip for aircon, and we found one with fans for 90k. I found the fan too loud so
upgraded to aircon, which was louder, so didnt get much sleep.
Went towards the market and went down that alley at the start with the 10000kip a plate Veg buffets, its changed a bit, but still
good, each stall gives slightly different choices.

day 2 140km Luang Prabang Mekong Loop SW
We were having an easy day, left at 1200, and took the southwest side of the mekong, nice dirt road through villages,then turned
back inland a bit,about 2pm, to where Steve,Don, Con, Phil and I got stuck in the mud one night. IIRC we turned left at a junction
and crossed a small stream(where we got the bikes washed in the morning)into a little village where we had stayed.
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Now it was almost deserted, just a couple of occupied huts and a few people. So I said hello, and tried to communicate, but we didnt
speak the same language.
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WE turned round, and went back to the junction, and took a doubletrack back to the road. Very nice,maybe you can get a 4wd through,
but not sure.
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Came out on the main road near a waterfall, so turned round to follow a track past a cave, which was too tricky for us to bother
trying at the time. We didnt know how bad it would get. Back downtrack, another singletrack so we checked it out, up a hill, through
a door(!!) and a banana plantation, got a bit dodgy, then the track was blocked with a fallen tree and barbed wire, so we turned
around as a guy came up to tell us off I guess. Weird!!
Back in LP by 5.30pm


day3 140km riding
Boat Luang Prabang- Ban Lathan. Bikes Ban Lathan- Oudomxai

In LP,the night before, we asked about a boat to Ban Lathan, and I was told at the quay that the boat leaves at 0830, and the tickets
were 170000kip total, for 2 bikes and the 2 of us. There is a guy(younger,smart) there that speaks English

AT the quay, at 8 O'clock, and got the tickets!!
It was a largeish passenger boat with lots of goods and a few locals.
Then a fat bloke comes up demanding 50000kip to get the bikes onto the boat, which doesn't interest us,so we checkout the boat owner
and get a deal 25000 for getting the bikes on and off.It wasnt so hard to put them on, but only one plank and a little space in front
of the boat man. They were tied down well but my bars went through his window. He had said it was safe, so not my fault.
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About 2.5 hrs upriver, and about 12 when we got to Ban Lathan.
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For some reason the boat docked at a soft sand beach about 50yards from the normal landing point, and the bikes were unloaded onto
this soft sand hillside.FFS
It took the 2 of us half an hour of heaving and sweating in the 90degree sun with our gear on to get the bikes 20yards up out of the
sand.
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Many kms of old dirt track before we hit the new stuff

Go into oudomxai at 1730 and checked a couple of GHs and stayed behind the restaurant where all the foreigners in town eat. Wifi
didnt work. Theres some steps behind that go up to a temple with good views of the whole area.

Day 4 270km Oudomxai- Nale- Vieng Poukha- Huey Xai
Left town for Nale on new dirt road, about 56km from oudomxai,
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30 km from Nale the new road branched off to the right at a junction I
remembered from last time.
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There were fields full of tobacco, I think it was, and these tall huts being built out of mud and leaves, with a metal chimney on the side, that presumably they dry the tobacco in.
So finally some proper dirt tracks through the jungle.and stream crossings, a bit wobbly (see the video)
on one.
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Stopped in Nale for lunch at riverside restaurant by the bridge and carried on on the old road to Vieng Poukha. Got there about 4pm
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so tried to make Huey Xai 110kms away for the ferry cos Chris had to return .
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I stayed in the remains of Oudomphone 2 GH.
 
Alex,
Great pictures Alex, where was the bamboo bridge with a section missing, on the trail from Nale ?

By the way that red truck was still there last week, maybe it will end up the same way as the old blue and white coach.
 
Bob,
Looks like that broken bridge is about 8km after the new road turning, N20 35.212 E101 35.105 on the way to Nale from Oudomxai
The red truck was fresh when we saw it.
Saw the blue bus too.
 
This was the bus back in 2010, it got moved off the road shortly after as they widened it and is pretty much picked clean.



Here the red truck the other week, there is actually a guy inside pilfering what he could.

 
Part 3 Alone again
Huay Xai- Casino-Xiengkok 199km

Was told at the GH it was maybe not safe to take the Mekong road, and I should ask the locals if it was OK. I didnt find anyone to ask.
I left HX at 10am and rode upriver to the Casino,
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had a quick look around the site, not many people there, but a few workers around in
their camps and housing areas, so a shop or2 open. then another 130 kms from start of the dirt road to Xiengkok. There was a gas station just up the road, and it was great riding up the mekong, the views were stunning.
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Very quiet along the Burma/Laos border, very few boats etc.New road ended at a village 15kms from the the junction with 2203 south to rte3.Went through Xiengdao,
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Got to Xiengkok about 4pm, and took a room with a view, a bit out of town. A couple of germans on scooters were there 2 with Lederhosen, getting a puncture fixed in the bike shop.and chose the other GH, then sat in the mekong for sunset, a great way to cool down. They came over to my GH to eat later and chat, food was OK, nothing else to see in town.
There were some large boats, I think they were stuck because of low water, and some articulated lorries spent the night there, being unloaded into smaller lorries to get further south.

Day2 Xiengkok- Ban Long- Vieng Poukha - Huey Xai 271km
In the morning I was off to Ban Long by 0930 and the road through the jungle to Vieng Poukha, very nice,. There was a junction, not on the map, so I went exploring.
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The track continues about 20km, lots of butterflies, and very remote, but maintained, to a fair
sized village.Someone spoke english and said there was no road out, but I had been headed in the right direction,so I went looking,
and rode tracks down south through a valley for a few kms of cultivated hillside until the tracks stopped, by a river. There were
people there chopping and making a trail further on. I turned round there.
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I remembered a village on the track, but it was almost unoccupied, another byproduct of the new roads.
About 3.00pm, 1km from joining the Route 13, my clutch cable snapped, so I rode onto the gas station on the main road there, and fitted the spare, which I had taped in place earlier and filled up.
Then back to what was left of oudomphone in Huey Xai. This time they had demolished the restaurant. I like the 110kms of wide twisty tarmac hills into Huey Xai,but wished I had
less luggage on the klx, it gets a bit wobbly with so much on the back.And better brakes.

Day3 Leaving Laos
Set off a bit late, checked out at immigration, but it was lunch time at customs(?),so had coffee with some thais on dtrackers and an aussie couple on an ER6, got papers done, 15mins max, and on the ferry.
Thai customs went ok, they of course wanted to see the paperwork which they had not given me, but it was soon sorted out, and I started the journey back to chiang mai, but by the time I got to Chiang Rai I really didnt want to ride more, in the dark, so got a GH for the night, had dinner with chris and his GF, got a bad massage from the old girl next door, I'm sure the younger ones would've done a better job,but sometimes looks can be deceiving, She said we have aircon rooms upstairs,so went up, 5 minutes later she said the massage was 200bt for fan room, 300bt for aircon, so I opted for fan room, but that was too warm and the massage was no good..,

and went to bed...
 
I guess that there's some very nice restaurants, but I didnt look inside.
I Stopped at xiengkok resort- 50000kip, great view, of Mekong, little fan, bamboo hut, basic squat toilet no water pressure, but relatively quiet, and the food was ok there. The rest of town was hopeless, the other gh was beside a restaurant but only 2 rooms and one had a chinese in it so maybe they would be up all night drinking there.
I took the Giant Loop,Easy to put on and off the bike,and didnt get in the way of me moving, if I packed it all in the sides.
A dust mask was essential, especially if you werent in front.
When you see a lorry(dust storm) coming the other way, you shouls slow down or stop, because when it passes you wont be able to see anything, and nor will anyone behind it be able to see you.
Was using the latest version of Auke's Laos gps map, was a great help
Finding 95 for my WR250 would have been a problem.
Was a nice route from Nale to Vieng Poukha, not a new road yet

I hope I remembered it all correctly, I dont recall all the prices, but we didnt spend over 100,000kip on GHs, even at Villa Laos in Vientiane , where they very definitely told us 100,000 when we got there, then tried to charge us 120000 when we left.
We ate 3 times in the Indian restaurant, down the soi opposit minimart(its in the eats section)
I'll be adding or editing if need be , and sure chris has got more to post. I lost a couple of fotos somewhere...
Heres the videos again
[video=youtube_share;FDfYN9nENww]http://youtu.be/FDfYN9nENww[/video]
[video=youtube_share;QM_32CNKz60]http://youtu.be/QM_32CNKz60[/video]
[video=youtube_share;RrFj3Od0CmQ]http://youtu.be/RrFj3Od0CmQ[/video]
[video=youtube_share;igGdYd49dYk]http://youtu.be/igGdYd49dYk[/video]
[video=youtube_share;UyWZb85XqvM]http://youtu.be/UyWZb85XqvM[/video]

villj streamm.jpg
 
View from the Xiengkok room
xiengkok view.jpg
This was at the Xiengkok resort, anyone know what it is?
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My guess is it's a hot water system
 
Yeah. It's a Solar Water heater. have them for Sale in most towns here in Thailand
 
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