Perth > Perth - Via Cape York 2014

Pounce

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2011
Location
Here
Sod it all.
I had up to around day 16 done on my laptop then the bastard died, so I lost the lot.
So now you're only getting a photo journal with the odd note or two.
If you have any questions about any of the pics, please ask.

It was bandied about by some of the guys to do a ride from the lower left corner of Australia to the upper right corner. I'll be in that.
This wasn't a stop & see everything tour, it was primarily a ride to Cape York & back, with sightseeing only if we were riding past it, no out of the way bits.

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Now we knew it was going to be a long ride so we allocated the month of May to do it, planning to be back in Perth around the end of the month.

Day 1 Perth - Kookynie 739 klm's
Day 2 Kookynie - Great Central Road S26 52.873 E125 35.040 595 klm's
Day 3 S26 52.873 E125 35.040 - Yulara 696 klm's
Day 4 Yulara - Alice Springs 493 klm's
Day 5 Alice Springs - Tobermorey Station 568 klm's
Day 6 Tobermorey Station - Mt Isa 674 klm's
Day 7 Mt Isa - Normanton 459 klm's
Day 8 Normanton - Atherton via Gulf Developmental Rd 630 klm's
Day 9 Atherton - Lions Den Hotel via Bloomfeld Track 254 klm's
Day 10 Lions Den Hotel - Cooktown 42 klm's
Day 11 Cooktown - Arcehr River Roadhose via Battlecam Rd 567 klm's
Day 12 Archer River Roadhouse - Bamaga 397 klm's
Day 13 Bamaga - Cape York Tip & back 82 klm's
Day 14 Bamaga - Musgrave Roadhouse 567 klm's
Day 15 Musgrave Roadhouse - Chillagoe 544 klm's
Day 16 Chillagoe - Normanton via Bourke Development Rd with no fuel between them 572 klm's
Day 17 Normanton - via Hells gat to Bush Camp on Savanah Way S16 17.628 E136 54.051 641 klm's
Day 18 S16 17.628 E136 54.051 - Katherine & JNR with beers 765 klm's
Day 19 Katherine pissing about getting tyres rfrom a robbing bastard
Day 20 Katherine - Lake Argyle Resort 517 klm's
Day 21 LAR - Drysdale River Station via Gibb River Rd 474 klm's
Day 22 DRS - Windjana Gorge via GRR 380 klm's
Day 23 Windjana Gorge - Broome 380 klm's
Day 24 Broome - Marble Bar via Borelines Rd 587 klm's
Day 25 Marble Bar - Gasgoyne River camp 190klm's north of Meekatharra S25 12.118 E119 20.073 563 klm's
Day 26 S25 12.118 E119 20.073 - Home 980 klm's
 
Day 1

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Bike - 235 kg's

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Me - 115 kg's

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Less than 100klm's from the start, I have lost my front brakes. Couldn't see brake fluid anywhere on my boots, so I lean over the handle bars & notice my caliper isn't bolted on anymore. Loctite your bolts people.

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90% of the trips scenery will turn out to be like this.

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Me trying to get some "Artsy" photos

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Result

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Kookynie Hotel in the back yard

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Day 2

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Grand Hotel Kookynie.
Not the first to stay here, have a look at TB-Racing's report AUS Goldfields Run WA 2011

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We carried everything we needed, I have sleeping gear in the top bag, food & cooking in the left & clothes in the right.

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This was my home for the month, got the set up & breakdown of camp down to around 20 minutes by the end of the trip

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Day 3

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By now you should be convinced of the outback scenery.

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Wait, that's not flat barren landscape!

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The Great Central road on the WA side was rough but reasonably good but once we had crossed into the NT though, it turned into another beast altogether.
To ride this with any confidence or comfort, it was literally a case of power & more power.
3" deep sand in places with long deep corrugations meant sitting on 100kph & hanging on was the best option. I think my decision to use a motocross tyre & install a steering damper was a very good choice. A normal touring tyre would not steer in this crap, as some of the guys found out.

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We are heading for Yulara (Uluru/Ayres Rock)
This section is taking longer than we thought, so we make it into Yulara as the sun is setting & are able to just catch the sunset over the Olgas & The Rock. Point & shoot cameras do not capture the beauty of this.

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Great stuff Pounce very nice pictures, having never ridden in Australia amazed have flat it is, although you look as you had more than your share of bull dust along the way.

Notice you haven't lost the ability to keep your mates captivated with you banter around the campfire :DD

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Geez, I'm looking forward to seeing the creeks and rivers on the Cape. We had enough "fun" with the Paske and Nolans in early August ('11). Did you guys have to float them over?
 
….having never ridden in Australia amazed have flat it is, ….

The
Australian landscape is much like an Australian accent: Flaat n Dreye.

(Please don't be offended Aussies: Its just me kidding around. I have made many good friends in Australia over the years and have enjoyed the freedom of riding in your massive country, including some great roads & scenery in parts of QLD and VIC).
 
Grand Hotel Kookynie.
Not the first to stay here, have a look at TB-Racing's report AUS Goldfields Run WA 2011

Great area out there in WA.... Kevin Pusey still the proprietor and manager of the Grand Hotel Kookynie, went through Menzies / Kookynie and the rest of the WA Goldfields a few times doing the Great Central Road rides between Perth - Brisbane since 88....
 
Day 4

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Today was meant to be a short run from Yulara up to Alice Springs.

There is a huge table top hill thing near Curtain Springs I have never heard about. It is the only think out there for miles. Shame it's not more famous.
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Mick had found a "short cut" to take us off the main highway through the Finke River National Park.
On the GPS & Map it said track, in reality it was deep river sand & river rocks for around 80klm's? that took us an extra 4 hours & nearly killed us all with exhaustion.
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Me going for a swim in the Finke River
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Our first decent river crossing of the trip. This was reasonably deep in one spot.
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There were multiple offs by multiple people because of the tyre sucking sand. Trying to wrestle a quarter of a tonne through this & helping to pick up bikes takes it out of you.
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We made it to the main highway late in the afternoon but still had to get to Alice Springs.
We didn't make it there until after dark. Everyone was totally shattered from taking the short cut.
 

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Day 5

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Today we hit the Plenty Highway heading for the Queensland border.

Tropic of Capricorn
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The first flat tyre of the trip. Note the patented tyre changing stand
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Guess what todays scenery will be...
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Fuel stop at Jervois Cattle Station. Believe it not but they raise 4,000 head of cattle out here on the sparse vegetation.
The rocket tests launched from Woomera in the 1950's in South Aus used to land around here, hence the bomb shelter.
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Cute English backpacker, by far the nicest scenery of the day.
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Tobermory Station just east of the Qld border is our stop for the night.
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Day 7

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Heading north into croc country now.

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Bourke & Wills roadhouse
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Today is the first day we really start feeling the heat too. We had to stop several times to try & cool off & stop falling asleep on the bike while riding. There is not a lot of places with shade in the tropical desert
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We start seeing rivers now too.
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with signs...
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but thank god for country pubs. We make it into Normanton.
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Did someone say crocodile?
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I forgot to mention that while in Mt Isa 2 days ago, I ran into my friends father John from Perth who was doing a similar ride to the Cape on a Husky terra, on his own at 69 years of age. Today we ran into him again in Normanton. I hope I'm still doing this as I mature.
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Good one Pounce; great images of a wonderful land.

re this place …

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Known to the indigenous Pitjantjatjara and Yankunytjatjara people as 'Atila' and to others as Mt Conner.
It's really worth a stop-over in its own right.
Technically, visitors would need to get permission from the Severin family back at Curtin Springs (if they are still there) as it's on their cattle land.
I used to visit often during the 70s and 80s.
Near the base are white clay pans which are related to the folklore (Dreaming) of the indigenous folk.
They believe that the dried clay pans are the foot-prints of the travelling 'Ninnga Man' who, ironically, is a man of ice. (It does get surprisingly cold out there).
The area is rich in folklore and about two decades ago was revisited by the locals who performed their traditional ceremonies there in an effort
to rekindle the site and to pass on knowledge to their children. It's part of the Seven Sisters Dreaming.

On another level, it's excellent camping there (well, used to be) because there's fresh bore water and the Mesa/Tor can actually be climbed fairly easily.
When on the top (which is not flat!) one can see how the monoliths of Kata Tjuta (Olgas), Uluru (Ayers Rock) and Atila (Mt Conner) actually align.

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Great info Ron, thanks for that. You look the part too.
I will definitely head back over there in the future as we didn't really stop & smell the roses.

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Great info Ron, thanks for that. You look the part too.
I will definitely head back over there in the future as we didn't really stop & smell the roses.
 
Well, my Australia trip might now come sooner rather than later - First TB-Racing tempting me with all his cheese and food pictures and now Pounce and Ron adding to it with their pictures and mystical stories - a BIG THANK YOU for posting all these pictures and stories.
 
Well, my Australia trip might now come sooner rather than later - First TB-Racing tempting me with all his cheese and food pictures and now Pounce and Ron adding to it with their pictures and mystical stories - a BIG THANK YOU for posting all these pictures and stories.

I'm sure we can rustle up a bed or two (or even a couch) at various points across the country.
 
It's really worth the effort Auke; at the right time of the year depending on what part(s) of Oz you want to visit.

Incidentally, it all could have been Dutch!

"The history of the Dutch and Australia began in 1606 with Captain Willem Janszoon, a Dutch seafarer, landing on the Australian mainland, the first European to do so." (Wiki)

And then Abel Tasman named a great portion of this new land 'New Holland' ('Hollandia Nova') in 1644 and that named stuck for until the Brits arrived on the east coast in 1788.

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And I agree with 'BigFella'.
 
Hey Pounce.... I think this RR is motivating some folks. I can see Tour Guide Ron leading a few of us oldies on a tour of Oz's fierce inner regions.
 
Now where were we.

Day 8 & 9

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From Normanton we wanted to start heading north along the Burke Development Rd then follow old roads & tracks heading north after crossing the Mitchell River.
Talking to some locals we found out that the Mitchell was still in flood as we are right at the end of the wet season & from Normanton to Chilligoe is about 600klm's on unknown dirt roads with no fuel stops.
Being early in the trip we take the safer & boring option & head east along the main highway towards the Pacific Ocean.
We get to Atherton on day 8 & stay there the night.

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Coast to Coast

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We are now on the East coast of Aus just below the world famous Daintree rain forrest.

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This area has some similarities to Thailand, winding dirt roads through jungles, steep concrete roads to get up mountains, river crossings etc but it only lasts for about 3 hours then you're through it all when you reach the Lions den pub just south of Cooktown

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We got here around 4pm I think & Tommy says his bike is playing up, the suspension is shot.
A quick look over & the valve on the nitrogen canister has broken off somehow so there is no dampening. We piss about for 15 minutes then Tommy & Ralph decide to ride back 350 odd klm's to Atherton via the main hwy to try & get it fixed as there is a bike shop there.
All good, the rest of us will stay here the night & try to meet them in Cooktown tomorrow.
 

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Day 10

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The 7 of us head into Cooktown after a late start as we're in no hurry today.
We end up hanging around here all day while Tommy & Ralph get the bike sorted. The guy in Atherton who said he could fix it didn't have the correct tools so after re assembling the bike & not charging the guys sends them off to Mareeba to a different shop (which we happened to get a new tyre at for Todd 2 days ago) who is a suspension guru type guy. He has the bike up & fixed in no time. The two of them the head off to Cooktown to meet up with us in time for afternoon beers & food.

Tommy's day

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Our day

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Day 11

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We're heading up into the Gulf country proper today.
Jack has ridden up here many times & knows some good roads, that's if they're open. He did not disappoint.

Our first "get off the bike & check the river out before crossing" crossing but us stupid city boys keep forgetting where we are.

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We spoke to a tour guide a few days later who told us they had to carry their bikes cross here using the dinghy on the other bank so we were a bit lucky the river had dropped its level.

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Another crossing or two until we come across a ranger. Jacko asks him if a certain road is open & gets told to get out of here (we just came along a closed road apparently) as it's huge fines for using closed roads, so onto the main road into Laura for lunch.
We get a sanctimonious lecture form some dipshit tour guide about us destroying his track so we ignore him.
Jacko is nowhere to be seen. he went straight on to Musgrave roadhouse.

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We find Jack at the Musgrave Roadhouse then head onto the Archer River roadhouse where we'll spend the night.

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You can swim in the river here. $75 a carton of beer is a lot though.

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Damn good pizza at that Lions Den. We pigged out there after getting caught out on the CREB track and having to camp on it overnight. It rained on us overnight... and we managed 7km in 24 hours and lost one rider (ie she got taken back to Cairns in a 4wd, bike recovered a few days later). CREB is now closed I believe, which is a pity.Keep 'em coming. Gotta be some bulldust and deep crossings to come.
 
Day 12

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Today we head to the top of Australia.

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I stop to take photos because I know how deep this is, Mick doesn't.

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Tommy does.
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Jacko keeps banging on about the old Telegraph Track & as we're all keen for adventure, once we get to Bramwell Junction roadhouse, we decide to have a go at it.
We get down to the first river crossing at Palmer or Palm creek. We meet this young bloke on a proper enduro bike coming from the opposite direction, so we help him through. He tell us further along the Cockatoo river is impassable & he spent half an hour de-watering his bike where he drowned it in another.

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Jack is still keen though. You have to know something here. Jacko weighs all of 70kg & is an a DRZ400. We all weigh over 100kg each & are on DR650's & Tenere 660's

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The exit of the creek.
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I will be the first to admit I'm not going that way, soon 7 others join my decision after watch Tommy have a go.

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It took a good 20 minutes just getting those two bike through with Jacko's clutch squealing & Tommy's chain jumping teeth on the sprocket, so no, we're going via the main road & we'll meet them at Elliot falls.
On an enduro bike with all that I am carrying, no hesitation at doing it but this is a trip to get to the Cape & that's my main priority.

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Jacko & Tommy's route.
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We only have to wait around half an hour for the lads top arrive, they go have a swim then we're back on the road.
There are more waterfalls at Twin Falls further up but you need to cross another river, which we're told by some blokes in 4WD's is bonnet deep, so yeah, we'll give them a miss.

Only one obstacle left before we reach Bamaga & that's the act of getting your wallet out & paying the $67 for a 100 metre crossing of the Jardine River.

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Onto our last port of call at the Loyalty Beach Campground

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Tomorrow, The Tip
 

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Nice stuff as always Mr P , i noticed some nice looking water crossings along the route, what tent are you using mate ?
 
Nothing special Bob, it's an Outer Limits Vertex, just a cheap free standing 2 man from the local camping store.
 
I forgot all about this until some other blokes we know did a ride there this year, I suppose I should finish it.

Day 13 – The top of Australia

From Bamaga to the Tip isn’t far & I was pleasantly surprised by the scenery. All the photos you see are of the sign, never the road there which is a great windy dirt road through sub tropical forest, not the barren landscape I was expecting.
Once there it’s a short walk over the hill to the spot.

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Well we’ve made it, Perth to Cape York via the middle of Australia.

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I suppose we have a beer now, turn around & head back.

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Day 14

Cape York to Bramwell Station

Time to start heading south.
There are some aircraft remains fro WW2 just south of the Cape.

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We decide to head for Bramwell station & stay there the night.
Covering previous ground so it was a nice fast run on the bikes.

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Repairs to Todds Tenere, the front rattled to pieces.

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Day 15

Bramwell Station to Chillagoe

Discussion are had as to whether we try the Bourke Development Rd on the way back as we were told it was impassable due to the Mitchell River height on the way up. There are several options so we take the Chillagoe one & head there today.

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We decide to have a look at a shortcut across the Mitchell to save riding a fair distance on the main highway.
It doesn’t look that bad until the guys nearly get swept away walking it without the bikes.

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Oh well, time to head on.

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Day 16

Chillagoe to Normanton

Today will test the fuel range of the bikes, we all take extra on board just in case.

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The road is great in places, bad in others & shit in some, not much scenery, hot & very remote. Totally worth doing.

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I can't remember how the others went, but I made it into Normanton without going onto reserve.
32 litre tank & not over working the motor, just taking it easy seems the trick.
 
Day 17

Normanton to Free Camping spot

We're heading west today to the Northern Territory via the Savannah Way. Another remote road that you need to take seriously.
We leave early & finally, road kill. Rothy mows down one of the millions of Agile Wallabies around the place doing about 80 kph. We're surprised it has taken this long for one of us to hit one, there have been way too many close calls. Killed it dead & luckily he didn't come off the bike.

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We come to a causeway so I stop to get a pic, Allen decides to show his sliding skills. If you look, you can see him laying down across the other side

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We get onto the Hells Gate Roadhouse, well named too. The temp gauge on my speedo is showing 40 degrees Celsius (probably only about 35 really). They tell us the river further on may or may not be crossable & the road is in a really bad condition in some parts. Oh well, we fill up our water supplies & try it out anyway.

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Once we reach the border, the tar turns to dirt & the fun begins.

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Now we're at the Robinson River that we were warned about. Jacko the ever adventurist walks it first & all is good.

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Me being a bit slow decides to ride into the middle, get off the bike & get pics of everyone crossing, totally forgetting we're but 40klm's from the coast & it's still croc country. Afterwards I wasn't that worried until I remember the deep dark water hole that was behind me.

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We ride on & find an old quarry to camp in for the night.

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Day 18

Camp to Katherine

We head into Booraloola for breakfast & ask about the rest of the Savannah Way. We're informed it is bad & not worth doing, some other time then.

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It's a days ride now to Katherine where we've made a deal with a mate from Perth who's there with his family. As we'll get in on Sunday & alcohol sales are restricted Junior is buying a couple of cartons for us. Cool.
A few stops along the way.
Mataranka Hot Springs

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Junior

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Day 19

Spend the day in Katherine getting tyres, having a swim in the hot springs & other crap, bring your wallet & patience.

Dunlop 606 lasted from Perth

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Pirelli 554 Motocross tyre, lasted from Mt Isa. Would definitely use one of these again for the fast speed dirt roads & deep sand. Tracked true always

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P1040133 by P C, on Flickr
How do you say fart in French?
P1040136 by P C, on Flickr
20140519_170308 by P C, on Flickr
20140519_170312 by P C, on Flickr
 
Day 21

Lake Argyle to Drysdale River Station

Gibb River Road.
Over hyped, over used, over priced & over regulated.

Stopped in at El Questro for a look & beer, couldn't spend the night where we planned as there was a charity pushbike ride on & the 500 plus bikes had taken over everything. No takeaway beer either as you can't buy takeaways along this tourist route.
We push on for the Drysdale River Station & get in just on dusk.

P5210306 by P C, on Flickr
P1040167 by P C, on Flickr
P5210308 by P C, on Flickr
P5210314 by P C, on Flickr
P1040172 by P C, on Flickr
p5210008 by P C, on Flickr
p5210010 by P C, on Flickr
P5210326 by P C, on Flickr
P1040183 by P C, on Flickr
20140521_123511 by P C, on Flickr
P5210331 by P C, on Flickr
P5210567 by P C, on Flickr
P5210569 by P C, on Flickr
P5210336 by P C, on Flickr
20140521_185955 by P C, on Flickr
20140521_181509 by P C, on Flickr
20140521_181505 by P C, on Flickr
20140521_181516 by P C, on Flickr
 
Day 22

Drysdale River Station to Windjana Gorge

A couple of stops & swims, a few river crossings then a night under the stars.
10,000 klm mark today

P1040187 by P C, on Flickr
P5220342 by P C, on Flickr
p5220011 by P C, on Flickr
P1040191 by P C, on Flickr
P1040197 by P C, on Flickr
P1040206 by P C, on Flickr
p5220014 by P C, on Flickr
P5220351 by P C, on Flickr
P5220357 by P C, on Flickr
p5220022 by P C, on Flickr
P1040211_stitch by P C, on Flickr
P5220364 by P C, on Flickr
P1040216 by P C, on Flickr

Finally, crocodiles...

P1040221 by P C, on Flickr
P1040226 by P C, on Flickr
 
Day 23

Windjana Gorge to Broome

Apart from Jacko going the wrong way, breaking down & having to chuck his bike on some couples truck & getting a lift as close to Broome as he could, another uneventful day.
We finally get a phone call from him saying he's at the turnoff 80 (?) klm's out of town. We arrange the local bike shop to go get him & the prognosis isn't good. The bike's dead.
Tommy, Allen & I decide to leave the next day & head towards home, the other pissheads have a day in the sun while Jacko organises a flight for him & a truck for the bike.

P5230365 by P C, on Flickr
P1040230 by P C, on Flickr
P5230368 by P C, on Flickr
IMAG0323 by P C, on Flickr
IMAG0324 by P C, on Flickr
20140523_163942 by P C, on Flickr

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Day 24

Broome to Marble Bar

Highway south to the Borelines road, then into Marble Bar for a beer & sleep.

P5240372 by P C, on Flickr
P1040232 by P C, on Flickr

The local aboriginal kids in MB were telling us there are bull sharks in the De Geay River, so no swimming.

P5240373 by P C, on Flickr
P5240374 by P C, on Flickr
P5240377 by P C, on Flickr
IMAG0333 by P C, on Flickr
IMAG0335 by P C, on Flickr
P1040244 by P C, on Flickr
P1040245_stitch by P C, on Flickr

What Marble Bar is named after.

P5250385 by P C, on Flickr
P1040251 by P C, on Flickr

P5250389 by P C, on Flickr
P5250390 by P C, on Flickr
20140525_085108 by P C, on Flickr
 
Day 25

Marble Bar to 190klm’s north of Meekatharra

It’s getting cold now, time to put the liners back in the jackets & the thick gloves.

P5250391 by P C, on Flickr
P1040256 by P C, on Flickr
P1040254 by P C, on Flickr
P1040257 by P C, on Flickr
P1040258 by P C, on Flickr
P5250394 by P C, on Flickr
P1040265 by P C, on Flickr
P1040267 by P C, on Flickr

Day 26

Camp spot to Perth

Longest day, close to 1000 klm’s to get home.

Even colder today, time to put the thermals back on too.

P5260401 by P C, on Flickr
P1020003 by Fueltanker Allen, on Flickr
P5260403 by P C, on Flickr
P5260405 by P C, on Flickr
P5260406 by P C, on Flickr

We reach Payne’s Find around 2 or 3 in the afternoon.
Tommy’s itching to get home & decides he’s going to go for it. We’ve already done about 530klm’s, so what’s another 450?
We can’t let him go on his own. It’s home time.
Allen departs somewhere north of Perth as we’re going to different areas so Tommy & I get back to the southern suburbs around 7pm

All up around 13,000 klm’s, a country crossed twice, some great sights, memories & fun had with mates.
What else is riding for?
 
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