North Laos loop with Craig, Hienz & Som

[KTMphil]

North Laos loop with Craig, Hienz & Som


I don't think i've ever been to Laos & not seen similar to this.

Craig & Hienz left Chiang Mai a couple of days before us, they spent 2 days riding in the Nan region & loved it of course. We then agreed to meet through the Nan, Huay Khon, Muang Nguen, Laos border at the town of Hongsa in Laos


Approaching the Huay Khon border, the Stu pa here on the hill always looks good

Last fill-up with 95 octane before Laos (no 95) at the PTT at the junction of R 1148 & R 1080

Convoy of fuel trucks at the Muang Nguen border crossing headed for the Hongsa construction zone

 

[KTMphil]

Through the border crossing paperwork pretty swiftly at Muang Nguen for a change. Laos customs tried to get an extra 100 bht per bike for the "paper cost" , I asked for a receipt and suddenly we didn't have to pay it

Laos insurance office at the Muang Nguen border is now 100 meters to the east of the customs & immigration office, in the building below:

Paperwork all finished, time to ride 30km east to find Craig and Hienz in Hongsa

 

[KTMphil]

Route 4 A from the Muang Nguen border to 3km east of Hongsa is now COMPLETELY tarmac all the way

About 1/2 way to Hongsa there's a rolled construction truck

Looked reasonably recent

As you approach Hongsa you reach construction hell - the coal mine and the Thai coal fired generating project are well under way

From the construction zone to Hongsa there is approx. 3km's of unmade road left

 

[KTMphil]

We found Craig & Hienz quite easily in Hongsa, then checked into the Souphaphone guest house 50 meters to the south of the main market

100,000 kip with aircon, not a bad price

Next to the Souphaphone guest house is the new SiChuan Chinese restaurant that looks pretty good

The boys had already spent a night in Hongsa and they had discovered that the happening place in town was the Nouker restaurant _ Good food and great service. they can even do fried egg sandwiches for breakfast the next morning

 

[KTMphil]

The Mai Ngam Sili restaurant in Hongsa is also great, a beautiful structure

Got to bed early so that I could get some shots in Hongsa's morning market

Looks like this lady could bring you some luck with the lotto ticket

There are some fantastic characters at the Hongsa market

Really cute young girl at the market

 

[KTMphil]

More Hongsa market vendors

 

[KTMphil]

1st time i'd seen bush meat in the Hongsa market, here some kind of fox with a plastic bag over its head to catch the blood

After a lap of the market now the bag removed

Some kind of squirrel as well

& buffalo legs

& some bags of blood for sale

 

[KTMphil]

The sun was now rising, filtered by the smokey atmosphere, time to go get ready for riding
'

13km east of Hongsa we take the left turn off of the main road and approach our first river, which in dry season is no more than a puddle

The 120km NE to Luang Prabang, known as route 4-B, was hard packed clay, with a deep powder covering in sections

The next river crossing, Som getting through without any difficulty

Hienz was having a blast on his Lifan 200 Cross

Som had the BMW stall on a steep hill, I stopped to help and dropped the KTM too.

Arriving at one of the villages that has no utilities on route 4-B about 1/2 way to Luang Prabang

 

[KTMphil]

A slip in the dust .... nothing broken on the rider or the bike

Craig on his Suzuki DRZ 400 coming across the next river

Hienz on the Lifan 200 too

Looks like the Lifan sat a lot lower and showed in the river crossings from the spray

 

[KTMphil]

Everyone was having a great time on this fantastic trail

Further along the trail, some ladies starting to make brushes from this vegetation

More villagers

This in the rainy season is a fast flowing river'

 

[KTMphil]

After about 4 hours of moving time we reach the ferry that will take us across the Mekong river to Luang Prabang

There was no waiting, we managed to get right on a ferry

Lunch on the boat

Hienz, Som & Craig

Deep in thought

 

[KTMphil]

Joma for a late lunch was like an Oasis in the desert after the dusty trail

Hienz & Craig got rooms at the Oudomsouk GH , which is down the side street next to Joma. 100,000 kip good value

We stayed at the GH opposite for the same price

The old architecture in Luang Prabang is beautiful

The main street has great Character

At night its beautiful

 

[KTMphil]

Even the Govt. Bank building is gorgeous

The photo opportunities in Luang Prabang are endless

Next down to the Mekong river for sunset beers

You would be crazy to miss sunset by the Mekong

If you want riverside accommodation, the Luang Prabang River Lodge would be an excellent choice

 

[KTMphil]

The evening market in Luang Prabang

Then off to the fancy L'Elephant restaurant for dinner - the place is expensive and was PACKED

We bumped into Nikko (getting the ground pepper), who i'd ridden with last year and he joined us for dinner, luckily for Craig and Hienz, he had a few free days and is taking them trail riding

Next morning Som & I leave for Luang Nam Tha & turn off north of Luang Prabang to look at the new hydro-electric construction on the Nam Ou river. Here the old twisted bridge from the floods in the past

The brand new bridge leading to the hydro-electric plant

It's 13Km off of R 13N to get to the hydro-elec build, there are some beautiful views along the way

 

[KTMphil]

We get down to the hydro=elec construction area and its a hive of activity - new bridges being built across the Nam Ou river

& the hydro-elec project truly under way

This is the Nam Ou river 300 meters from the hydro-elec project

 

[KTMphil]

Back on R 13 N & what do we have here? A landslide in the dry season? While waiting I call Midnight Mapper, he very much doubted it being a landslide and must have been some kind of purposeful operation.

So we're through this in about 30 minutes, then I notice my right boot is covered in oil. Taking a look for the source, we can see that a bolt has backed out of the crankcase --- luckily the sump pan protector has prevented the bolt from coming all the way out, we stop at the next mechanic and he tightens it all back up, problem solved.

MORE TO COME ............

 

[Steve Canyon]

Phil your Fooking killing me... :MG

Great shots man......

Lifan rock


More please.... :RO

 

[KTMphil]

Route 13 N between Pakmong and OudomXai, the road is still a disaster from the rainy season, there must be 100 broken road section, road bikes be aware of this, it won't be fun (Versys's will hate it)


Pulling into OudomXai for lunch, looked like this guy had a fetish for satellite dishes

OudomXai is a very strange town. It's quite hard to explain, but is kind of huge with nothing there and very Chinese orientated.



We ate lunch inside the Dansavanh Hotel in OudomXai which is right on the river in the center of town opposite the market

The Hotel has a nice "old world" feel to it

Food was quite tasty

They also have a restaurant next to the hotel on the river, it looked like this was only open for dinner

The river in town didn't look too inviting, looked like they'd be plenty of corn-eyed-brown-trouts in there

After leaving OudomXai, we bump into James and Cat on their KTM 990 Adv S coming the other way.

They are stopped on the side of R 13 N, their bike is running very very hot and they don't know why. They did just do a coolant change, could be an airlock. They manage to limp on down to OudomXai.

 

[KTMphil]

Late afternoon, we rode into Luang Nam Tha & decide to give the big, pink, Chinese, Royal Hotel a shot

The hotel is still new looking and is very Chinese, being so close to the Boten, China/ Laos border

Rooms are 250,000 kip (1,000 Bht) and pretty good if a little small though

There is a huge Chinese market (not the night market) opposite the Royal Hotel, that sells everything from spoons to generators

Quite amusing to be in this fancy hotel and then see this tuk tuk out front

 

[KTMphil]

Walking around LNT - the Thavyxai GH looks like a good place to stay (one street back from the main road) , will give this a shot next time

Food options are limited in Luang Nam Tha, the Banana Restaurant is one ok option

The Bamboo lounge is another'

The Manychan Restaurant directly opposite the night food market seems to be the most popular

 

[KTMphil]

Still early, so we take a look around the LNT night food marker opposite the Manychan restaurant, its clean and looks like a great budget eating option

The locals market in the back of the night food market

A vendor in the market making noodles from powdered rice and water, heating the mixture in a pan over steam

Then cutting the huge noodle with scissors

Som Tum

 

[KTMphil]

In LNT another hotel option is the Dokchampa hotel next to the night food market

Opposite the Dokchampa hotel in Luang Nam Tha is the Minority restaurant down a side ally that looks interesting

 

[KTMphil]

Early morning start from LNT to make Chiang Mai in 1 day, the mist was very thick. About 30km east of LNT some local villagers keeping warm around a burning log

 

[KTMphil]

Further east towards Houay Xai, some great views even in the smokey haze

Taken with the Lumix LX5 ..doesn't bring out the colors nearly as good

 

[KTMphil]

A line of traffic, what do we have here?

Looks like the white truck cut the corner and the two are now mated together, luckily enough room to get the bikes passed

We arrive in Houay Xai nice and early, great photo on the wall of the Houay Xai immigration office showing the extent of the floods in 2008

Muang Nguen, Laos (Nan border) forgot to stamp Som's passport, this mistake cost a 4,000 bht fine to correct at Houay Xai immigration -- A GOOD LESSON TO CHECK YOUR PASSPORT HAS BEEN STAMPED



Not too smokey for a photo across the Mekong from Houay Xai customs office at the car/ truck ferry

 

[KTMphil]

Looks like "ferry mafia" has developed at the Houay Xai, Laos ferry dock. None of the arriving R-O-R-O ferries will take motorcycles. There is a thin, elderly gentleman at the dock who will tell you that for 600 Bht for each motorcycle he can get you on the ferry. The ferry from the Chiang Khong, Thailand side is 500 bht!

So back across to Thailand and check-in. Thai immigration is now quite insistent that for foreign motorcycles, you MUST go check in also at the main immigration office in town and that will cost you 200 bht, they will give you a receipt.

 

[Loop]

Great report and pics Phil.
One for the "to do" list.

 

[KTMphil]

Maps of the Route taken



Chiang Mai to the Houy Khon, Nan, Thailand / Muang Nguen, Laos international border crossing - DISTANCE 387 KM

 

[KTMphil]

Houy khon, Thailand - Muang Nguen, Laos international border to Luang Prabang off-road -- DISTANCE 169 KM

 

[KTMphil]

Luang Prabang to Luang Nam Tha - DISTANCE 307 KM

 

[KTMphil]

Luang Nam Tha to Houay Xai border - DISTANCE 173 KM

 

[KTMphil]

Chiang Khong to Chiang Mai - DISTANCE 313 KM

 

[KTMphil]

The dirt trail from Hongsa to Luang Prabang.

Villagers on the route

Lunch in Joma, Luang Prabang

 

[KTMphil]

North of Luang Prabang, the dirt trail from R 13-N to the hydro-elec construction project

 

[KTMphil]

L'Elephant restaurant, Luang Prabang, Laos. The best restaurant in Luang Prabang.

 

[KTMphil]

Hienz

Route 3

 

[KTMphil]

A few more photo's from the north Laos trip



Chinese sign at the Nam Ou hydro-elec plant

Watching dad fix the drains in LPQ

Beautiful colors in Luang Prabang (LPQ)

Hongsa's vibrant morning market

Morning market over with in Hongsa, NW Laos

Market colors

 

[Lao2stroker]

Wow...those are some really nice pictures..the color is so bright and rich.

I just did the route, too, from LPQ to Hongsa, and with the addition of a few small bridges and general improving of the road, it's pretty fast now. I had a passenger so not as fast as I'd like but def not the 6 hours it used to be! Still a great track. But eat and fuel before you start, nothing in between but a few ethnic villages with nothing to sell!

And the cat is called a "civet" most famous as the Kopi Luak coffee cat...in the Bolevan in Laos, as in Indonesia, they follow this cat around after he eats the coffee bean...Then when they crap em out, they're like gold.

In Paksong, from the producer, or farmer I should say, civets are bad businessmen, anyway..it costs about $225 for one KG of the coffee, even more from INdonesia. It's real bitter...you can even sample it first....for $10 per cup...and it tastes like shit!

Glad you had a good Laos adventure!

 

[Captain_Slash]

Some great photos there Phil and it sounds like you had a good time

 

[Steve Canyon]

This one says it all, great report Phil......

Cant wait to return!!

:RO