Ko Phangan, Full Moon Party, Sept 2012

nikhuzlan

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2011
Bikes
GSA, NC700D, KLX450R
A trip that can be considered unplanned, motivated by Cris the Chilean's planned ride to Phuket.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xR8fxfgYE3U


Cristian is a GSA Rider two years into his RTW ride, and he bumped into Faisal, a mate of mine at the local BMW service station. He then joined the BMW Club for its Annual Family Day at a Beach Resort in Kuantan. His plan was to ride up to Phuket after he's done Malaysia.
Faisal persuaded Cris that riding to Ko Phangan before turning west to Phuket is a good thing.
Cris very wisely agreed after Faisal briefed him on the enriching experience of hanging out at the Full Moon Party.
There's also the 1st Ko Phangan Bike Week which coincides with the Full Moon Party.


I spoke to Ariff and Simon a week earlier and we all agreed its a good idea we ride up to Ko Phangan and join Faisal and Cris.


The plan was to ride to Juru, RV with Simon, then head up Hat Yai to meet Faisal and Cris.
The first day is just over 530km, the New World Hotel being the destination.
Then the next morning, we will push off early to catch the 10am ferry to Ko Phangan.

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I left home Friday, 27th Sept, and headed to Tapah RnR where I RVed with Ariff.
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After breakfast we headed for Juru Autocity to meet Simon at the newly opened Harley Shop there.


Although the NSH is a chore to ride, I have always liked the bits between Tapah and Kuala Kangsar as the Karst scenery around
Ipoh City breaks the monotony of the Oil Palm Plantations that lines the highway.

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We met Simon at the Harley dealer, and headed towards Changloon, where we will buy insurance, change to Bhat and
print out ED cards for immigration.

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After settling the insurance, its the last fill-up at the Caltex station just 4 km from the border.
We checked in at New World Hotel in Hat Yai and settled in early in preparation of our early departure tomorrow morning.

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Friday 28th was wet, the rain pouring since 3am, easing out to a light drizzle as we assembled. There was Simon, Faisal, Cris, Ariff,
with Nazri and Fauzi joining in from Penang on their F800GS.

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The drizzle eventually stopped, although the road was initially wet.
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We stopped at Songkla Town for breakfast
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We rode on this Route which is a little further by 6kms but we avoided the mad rush on the main highway that is
a more common route. Turns out its a good decision.

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Crossing the big Lagoon, we saw a spectacular reclining Golden **** on Ko Yo Island in the middle of the lagoon
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Phototime
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We stopped in Ranot for a while.
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Saw this fighting cow
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School kids mesmerised by Cris
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This is a nice road, certainly a lot better than the main thoroughfare that links Hat yai to Phatallung. The roads are outstanding, traffic very light.
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We passed through Phatallung to join the main North-South Highway.
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Another 140km and we found ourselves at the pier. We almost missed the 10 o'clock ferry.
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Don Sak
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People get creative with nothing to do on a 2 1/2 hour Ferry ride.
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Ferry from Koh Samui
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Thong Sala Pier, Koh Phangan.
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Koh Phangan is an Island slightly smaller than Langkawi, and in the last 5 years the island has developed itself around all the beach parties,
with initially low cost hotels to cater for the great unwashed crowd. But it is now dotted with bigger luxury resorts,
and in a matter of the next few years will probably grow even bigger, perhaps rivaling Samui. Many use Samui as a base, but nowadays, even more come direct.


There are many stories that have been told as to the origin of the Full Moon Party, but the most consistently
told tale says that it began in 1985 by about 50 travellers, centered at a makeshift wooden disco.
By word of mouth the stories of the party spread, and has now grown to 20-30,000 party goers.
The FMP is normally held on the night of the full moon. The All-Night Part is held at Haad Rin Beach, a stretch of white sands just 2km long.
The party carries on until the sun rises the next day.


The bars on the sunrise beach of Haad Rin town stay open and play music such as Psychedelic trance, R&B, drum and bass, house, dance and reggae.
The modern event has become a part of the itinerary for many backpackers travelling Asia. It is characterized attractions such as fire skipping ropes,
wildly variable alcohol strength 'buckets', and a drug culture. It is seen by many as the "ultimate party experience", although drug laws are still strict,
and police enforcement seems to be lax during the event.


A whole sub-industry is now driven by these parties, so much so that its not just the Full Moon,
but parties are also organised around the "Black Moon " and "Half Moon" nights.
In recent years, there has been an increasing number of assaults and robberies at the party and in bars in the surrounding area,
eventually leading various Western Governments to warn their citizens to exercise caution.
Although shot elsewhere, Leonardo Di Caprio's The Beach featured the FMP.



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We stayed at the RM120 per night Beck's Resort, about 1.5km from the jetty and town center. Nice place, run by a pretty Penang lady.
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Room was spartan, but clean. By Thai standards, for RM120 the room is just average.


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We rode to Haad Rin Beach, about 10km away. Haad Rin is the 'happening' beach, where the FMP is held.
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We had some food at Tommy's a Resort smack on the beachfront. We know in a flash this is the place to stay
next time if enjoying the FMP is the aim.

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Returning to the Beck's Resort. We have been warned many times against riding at night.
There are many drunk 'farangs' on rented scooters that will be riding all over the road under the influence.
Then there's the crazy pick-up taxis, driving as fast as they can trying to squeeze as many trips as possible.



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Ariff having a go on Simon's GS Triple Black.
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Beck's Resort.
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Despite reports of widespread heavy rain, morning turned out with clear skies, temperatures hovering below 30 degrees.
We plan to explore the Northern part of the Island, reputed to have the best beaches on the island.
Faisal rode over from another part of the island as they were staying at a different hotel.

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There are no tar roads in Ko Phangan, all the roads are reinforced concrete, apparently built by the residents themselves.
What is apparent is the gradient of the road, resembling a roller coaster track with ist steep climbs and descent,
sometimes with many corners thrown in to make riding interesting.

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There are many viewpoints along the way, but parking was hazardous as the roads were mostly narrow.
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We stopped by this beach, Haad Yao, where I found what is probably the best place to get a massage.
With the view of the sea it is definitely the best way to be rejuvenated.

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After Haad Yao we rode on to Koh Ma, a small island linked by a sandbar to the main island.
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Lunch was at the curiously named Cookie Salad Resort. Situated at one end of the Haad salad Cove, it sits on a steep slope.
We rode there via a 200meter dirt road after the concrete ends.

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Cookies Salad
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this restaurant has an incredible view and ambience.
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We hung around awaiting lunch.
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It was worth the wait. Simple and sumptious at the same time.
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After lunch we had a chance to meet the owner. She knows faisal as faisal was here a couple of times previously.
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Simon on a Coke delivery bicycle.
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We rode back after half a day there.
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That night Simon and I had dinner at this pub owned by a British married to a Thai. He missed his pub so much,
he 'photostated' the design and reconstructed it down to the last detail.

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After that we rode to the 1st o Phangan Bike Week. A humble affair with just 200 bikes, it was nevertheless well organised.
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We then took a 'taxi' ( pick-up trucks with seats ) to Haad Rin Beach, the happening place, about 8km south.Jumping off the taxi,
we were greeted by numerous 6x3 stalls, selling liquor in a pail, with soft drinks and straws thrown in.

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It was not yet the Full Moon, so there were only a couple of thousand people on the beach.
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We took a detour to a bar that sells concoctions of drinks and tobacco.....
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Peeing into the sea, and an unconcious drunk on the sand, features of the full moon party.
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The next Day
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KPG really developed since my last time over there.. Must be going back 8 or so years.
 
200 Bikes! Great turnout for such an awkward location. Very interesting about the pub reconstruction, thanks Nik.




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