KLX Airfilter mods

harrygps

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2012
Location
Chiang-Mai and Germany
Bikes
Many and my perfect bike has 250cc.
One thing, what made me mad at the KLX is the boring work , if you have to clean the airfilter. The Kawasaki engineurs made it really most complicated as possible. Where are the great bikes like a XR-250? Airfilter is open in 5sec.
So this mod was planned a long time.

Airfilter mods KLX-250
1) threw away the idiotic seatbelt.
2) place a K&N filter
3) 2 screws at the tap are enough. Best choice are 2 which you can open without tools. After market for 30 THB.
4) The mods begin. The other 3 are used DSCN2381.JPGDSCN2382.JPGDSCN2383.JPGDSCN2384.JPG since many years.
1. Step. Remove seat, panells and fender.
Drill a 6,5mm hole in both threads, where the seat/panells normaly are fixed.
Messure the distance between both sides.
Cut a small pipe in exat this length.
Drill 2 big longholes in the plasticcover, where the fender ends.
Bend very carefully the egdes with the drilled threads outwarts. Take your time, try and messure again, bend further untill the pipe can be placed between.
Bend the egdes carfully back. The pipe is now fixed between. The pipe ist just for leading the screw. If you like it to search the holes everytime, it´s not needed.
Find a long 6mm screw in the right length.
Grind all screws at the end for an easy thread finding.
Move everything, seat, panell, fender back to the bike.
Try to push the long screw through the panell, the seat, the pipe, the seat, the other panell and fix it with a nut.
Ready

We tested it in a KLX with a rack, which makes it more complicate.
It was possible to remove the seat, open the tap and remove the airfilter in less than 1 minute.
I was scared a bit about the suspension. Maybe it could be happend in an extreme situation, on a motocross track (jump), that the tire hits the pipe. But I drilled the hole a little bit bigger and the pipe can move a few mm. But this is extreme. in normal cases, also hard enduro this can not be happend.
 

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That's a bloody good idea putting the long bolt in, getting the rack back in place is a real pain in the arse. Looks like you have got the bigger snorkel too ??
 
Since iv'e just reamed out the thread again on one side of my seat iv'e just been revisiting Harry's thread and thinking about making it even easier to get the damn seat off using his idea, but how about using a threaded bar rather than a long bolt, putting two springs each end to locate inside the rack (if your have one) to keep tension on the bar and nipping each end up with wing nut's, that way when you need to get the seat off when you out riding your not fishing around for spanners/sockets etc

photo.jpg Job Done.
 
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