The event is coming up soon (at a date yet to be confirmed but probably the same time) and other Hmong communities have a similar festival at different days. This one seems to be the Big One though.
Here's a report I did on a previous years event:
GSforLife (aka 'Ding') was in town, having just ridden from Malaysia, through Thailand and Laos.
(His trip report will follow)
Ding was keen to see Hmong people in their traditional costumes.
Considerately, the Hmong decided to hold their New Year celebrations just when Ding was in Chiang Mai, so we rode along the Mae Rim-Samoeng #1096.
... and found the venue at Puak Toey, only a few kms off #1096 just before the Viewpoint.
Ding made some excellent pics, which will definitely appear in his report.
I left my camera at home!
However, I returned to the same village the next day (27th) with my new Sony,
mainly to see if it can capture the spectacular colours of the Hmong traditional costumes.
Most of the Hmong were already in their costumes when I arrived and I started clicking. Almost an overdose of colours. I was captivated by the traditional costumes and the faces of these gentle mountain people.
The 26th and 27th were relatively quiet days, when the Hmong performed their traditional games, held a concert and generally paraded around the village displaying their magnificent costumes.
The lady wearing mostly white has recently graduated from a 4 year Nursing course in Bangkok. She later invited GSforLife and myself to join her in the ball game. (more on that later!)
(The 28th was a complete contrast!!!!!! I'll report on that day in a separate thread).
Some-one there has a nice bike.
A concert was in progress and people were setting up their stalls for The Big Day on 28th and preparing the track when the wooden carts will hurtle down a hill into the school grounds.
(I'll be there; I've tried for 3 years to get to this event!)
So, let's look at some of the Hmong and their magnificent costumes; which they wear with great pride and dignity.
The children were gorgeous, so friendly and polite to this stranger in their midst.
On the 27th I was the only 'Farang' at the village.
(The 28th was a complete contrast!!!!!! I'll report on that day in a separate thread).
Some-one there has a nice bike.
A concert was in progress and people were setting up their stalls for The Big Day on 28th and preparing the track when the wooden carts will hurtle down a hill into the school grounds.
(I'll be there; I've tried for 3 years to get to this event!)
So, let's look at some of the Hmong and their magnificent costumes; which they wear with great pride and dignity.
The children were gorgeous, so friendly and polite to this stranger in their midst.
On the 27th I was the only 'Farang' at the village.
This chap was the MC for the concert and offered to care for my helmet and jacket while I walked around the village all day. (I arrived around 10am and the weather was cold. The sky was hazy/smoky. I was able to ride into the village and park near the action ..... impossible on 28th).
Many young Hmong were recording their celebrations.
'I'm not getting out of my tiger uniform for any occasion'.
Now, this little cherub was/is intriguing.
For some reason she sort me out and presented me with this white rose, bless her.
I kept the rose on the Honda, rode home with it and it's still showing in a vase in my apartment.
She would reappear later in the day and again on 28th!
This bamboo building intrigued me. Many people were coming and going. I asked if it was the 'pooyai bahn's' home. 'No, it's just a home'.
So then it was off to the ball game. 'The ball game of love' as I've heard it described.
Again, I was invited to join the group. A pretty lady graciously volunteered to stand opposite me and we exchanged the black cotton ball and tried to converse for a few minutes. There is more to this 'game' than meets the eye! GSforLife, what have we committed ourselves too ????
Once I had been there a couple of hours my hosts seemed more relaxed with me in their presence. This little gang actually asked for this photo to be made.
And this little charmer never said a word; she would simply appear in front of my camera throughout the day!
Then little 'Rose' appeared 'out of the blue'. She had the black cotton ball used in the game and performed a mysterious and puzzling (to me) ritual with it.
First she appeared to listen intently to it ....
... then she held it to her chest, closed her eyes and went into a very private space.
Was she wishing for something? Was she praying? (I believe many in this village have become Christians as well as maintaining their Animist beliefs). What were you doing 'Rose'?, bless you.
The ball 'game' continued, many sheltering under an umbrella. (Now early afternoon).
And my fascination with the Hmong attire continued.
The guys were also resplendent in their traditional black costumes.
My Nurse friend found me and asked if I was returning for the cart races. 'Just try to hold me back', I mumbled to myself. 'Yes, I will be here', I replied. 'And your friend?''Oh, he's riding his motorbike to Malaysia.' 'Oh, really?'
Simply couldn't resist the village canine. (G'day Captain Slash.)
Now, as I was about to depart, this old matriarch caught my eye.
I asked if I could make this photo of her. She laughed, probably at the interest, and kindly agreed. As I walked away from her I wondered how many stories she has in her head. How many changes she has witnessed in her people and in her own life. Is her oral history being recorded? What a treasure it would be for future Hmong. Maybe the missionaries who, I believe, have become fluent in Hmong and other 'Hilltribe' languages are already collecting. Maybe not. I will find out.
Walking back to my bike I saw these little ones having a snack.
It was actually difficult to leave this village!
Next year I may just take the tent and set up near the village.
Oh no, look who found me again. Just as I was about to awaken the Honda from its snooze. Little 'Rose'!
It's all about friendship.
'Rose'again! This time with an 'Angry Bird' note of 10 (some denomination), which is also in my apartment under the rose vase.
Good progress had been made on the launch-pad for tomorrow's racing.
This is not a village for riding bicycles, as she discovered (obviously a visitor).
Back to the faithful steed ....
... stopping just outside the village to take in the views.
Once back onto #1096 I headed towards Samoeng to have a closer look at this new
building (one km from the junction with #1269) I'd noted the previous week. The owner greeted me and we exchanged pleasantries for a few minutes; him intrigued with the Africa Twin, me with his wonderful new restaurant/coffee shop. It looks splendid and he intends it to be open by the first day of 2012. Named 'Fah Sai' (Blue Sky). I wish you well sir; see you on 3rd.
So that was a very short but wonderful 95km round trip into another world.
If I'm back from Laos in time for it Ally.
Seems that it's on at the same time as Loy Krathong (Nov 27th/28th).
The only way to confirm that is to go to the village and ask.
