Alteco, Loctite, Araldit, V-Tech, Pattex...
Most true epoxy resins (usually Bisphnol-A or Novolac based) are the most expensive glue and filler/matrix types.
On the more economical side we see Polyester and Vinyl-ester resin based "epoxies". The advantage is polyester resins are much cheaper to produce bulk materials and build up thickness. Vinyl-ester is less prone to cracking and more suitable for applications with metal filler as it wets the surface better providing better adhesion and is more resistant to contact and immersion with fluids. Vinyl-esters are best for those small plastic fairing repairs and with steel filler for non crucial (not subject to mechanical loads) aluminum repairs, punctured engine block like in this case.
Bisphenol-A based resins (especially polyacrylate modified) offer some of the strongest resins available (as high as 90-100MPA, or the equivalent of your alloy frame) and Novolac based resins are the best options for paste sticks usable in wet and even under water.
Most good manufacturers do mention the material and its best range of applications, reading the instructions usually helps choose the best option for the application.
Generic do it all epoxy are usually "cheap" polyester formulations and while adequate for repairs around the house, I personally avoid them for critical repairs that need to get me out of a sticky situation.
IMO it is worth spending the extra money and carry a couple of variants - Vinyl-ester metal filler (usually 5 to 15 min quickset), paste sticks (workable for approximately 30min and setting over night) and a high strength epoxy formulations 5 min quickset and also a standard setting, its the strongest requiring overnight curing but offers huge strength and can save mechanical parts for as long as it takes to get back home or at least to a repair shop.
