Deep into central Isaan research mission

KTMphil

Senior member
Joined
Jan 11, 2011
Location
Chiang Mai, Thailand
Bikes
2007 KTM 990 Adventure Suzuki DRZ 400
Was not looking good when we left Chiang Mai. Pouring with rain, 6 pickup's crashed or upside down on R 118, maybe we'd left it too late in the year to make this an enjoyable research mission.



Here on a very wet R 120 approaching Phayao




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With plenty of time available for this research mission, we'd planned to work our way south east from Chiang Mai & to take the scenic route which crosses the Sirirkit Dam by ferry. If you haven't ridden it, the ridge line R 1339 north of the Sirikit Dam ferry is a spanking good ride. With the wet roads our average speed had been cut in half by the time we'd reached R 1154 north of Phrae.


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A map showing our route SE from Chiang Mai


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More to come with a better Isaan internet connection
 
Enjoy the ride guys, take it easy, you have all the time in the world.

Stay safe.

Ally
 
The Mae Nam Ngao River on R 1154 had been brought back to life, now freely flowing with brown, silty run-off



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710 km's later, we made Udon before dark, one of the best hotels for location and price (c/o Bob & Gary) is the "@ Home Hotel", co-ords: N17.40578 E102.80203


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There was some kind of convention underway in Udon (turned out to be nurses we think!) so every where was full. Managed to get a room opposite the The Pannarai Hotel co-ords: N17.40616 E102.80216 for 550 bht with aircon. that did the job (off-street parking for the bikes).



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The Irish Clock in Udon does pretty good food for dinner and breakfast. It's nice and cool in there, important as Udon is rather hot


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Co-ords:


N17.40595 E102.80212


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After a fun evening in Udon, time to start heading south, deep into central Isaan, no real plan, no real destination for the night which made it fun. Clear skies, the wind from the trucks was giving the fellow some headaches, he was all over the road (the one on the left that is).



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The changing face of rural shop houses eating choices - CP frozen quality meals, lets hope this doesn't kill all the roadside noodle restaurants



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It's the 7-11 style frozen stuff that goes in the microwave. You seriously could not have got more rural than where we were here.... never seen this out in the sticks before.



We might have been her first ever customer too, she had to "call-a-friend" to figure out how to make these frozen soup packets hot!



FlickrDroid Upload by Triangle Golden 007, on Flickr
 
Sun high in the sky now and like a hot hair dryer while riding along with no rain clouds around. A beautiful old wooden structure in the grounds of a Isaan wat



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Looking through lanmark attractions in the GPS we came across a old Stupa near Roi-Et. I'll get the locations from my GPS.



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This stone pillar was in the grounds of the Stupa and looked pretty ancient


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The ancient wat's in this area were quite unusual


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North of Maha Sarakam some scoop net fishing underway


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They would leave the net down for about 45 seconds


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Then quickly hoist up


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One thing you do see a lot of, especially on the outskirts of small cities riding through here (central Isaan), is short time hotel/ bungalows, they were everywhere. Maybe validating the claims of many 30 year old Thai ladies regarding their husbands infidelity.


We thought this, with the many colorful roofs & dinosaurs was just another one and turned out to be a restaurant on a silty lake



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IMG_8178_edited by Triangle Golden 007, on Flickr
 
Checked the tires before we left Chiang Mai & the rear seemed to have plenty of rubber left. A petrol stop north of Maha Sarakam, a quick glance around the bike revealed some bad news, the rear was through to the metal core, 9,000 km's out of the Pirelli Rosso II



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Made a few phone calls and one was available in Bangkok, but would we make it there. Getting late, we opted for a night in Maha Sarakam not knowing what to expect.


There's a great new hotel in Maha Sarakan, near the viaduct called Sarunya ( 094 281 5777). A little hard to find but worth the effort - 500 Bht


In walking distance of all the bars and restaurants



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Our destination choices for sleeping this night were, Roi-Et, Buriram, Surin or Maha Sarakham. Neither Bob nor myself knew anything about Maha Sarakham, the town letters were quite big on the map so that was the decider.


As wikipedia says, this was kind of what we were expecting:


Maha Sarakham Province - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia





The province is mostly a plain covered with rice fields, only in the north and east are small hills. The province is between 130 and 230 m above sea level. The main river in the province is the river Chi.




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How wrong were we, bars and good looking, young, trendy people everywhere, a fantastic town and still undiscovered it looks like



FlickrDroid Upload by Triangle Golden 007, on Flickr




FlickrDroid Upload by Triangle Golden 007, on Flickr




There's a shockingly good aircon. gourmet steak house on the viaduct called Riverside Steak, location:




http://maps.google.com/maps?q=16.190115335929086,103.28812710547241




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Whoever has set them up has been trained well, great service and excellent food, one of the best restaurants i've been to in Thailand


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FlickrDroid Upload by Triangle Golden 007, on Flickr



They do a great surf and turf



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Sore heads the next morning from a great night in Maha Sarakham, another look at that tire the next morning and it wasn't looking good



Screenshot_2 by Triangle Golden 007, on Flickr






Priority was getting this rear tire replaced before I was skating on the metal core. Headed south, we entered Buriram, Bob flagged me down as he'd caught the KTM shop out the corner of his eye "let's give them a try".



Quite an investment has been made here, the owner is a fanatic for sure



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Seriously well stocked


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"...the town letters were quite big on the map so that was the decider."

This is the spirit of adventure I like to read!

You don't really want to read this though Phil. I am sincerely happy that you are out there, riding your bike, doing what you do best.

Congratulations.

:RO

Ally
 
All very professional, torque wrenches used properly etc...

Wish KTM CM was the same!

EDIT:

Not that I've ever tried them. (I doubt I could even if I tried - unless I wanted some crap accessories fitted.)

Just wish KTM CM was a properly operated, well stocked, KTM dealer, parts and servicing shop...
 
^ actually all Thai mechanics re the torque wrench.

I recently had the rear brakes on the pickup adjusted by my mechanic. His rattle gun couldn't get the wheel nuts off and he had to use a 1.5m bar and socket to loosen them.

Too bad if i'd had a flat and needed to change it by the side of the road..............not to mention all the other nuts and bolts i've found way overtightened by Thai mechanics on my bikes over the years.
 
It was a great shop think the owner has something to do with buriram football team and the race track so he's not coppering up just yet.

The little CRF is holding its own against the ducati beast ☺

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
I recently had the rear brakes on the pickup adjusted by my mechanic. His rattle gun couldn't get the wheel nuts off and he had to use a 1.5m bar and socket to loosen them.

Too bad if i'd had a flat and needed to change it by the side of the road..............not to mention all the other nuts and bolts i've found way overtightened by Thai mechanics on my bikes over the years.






We had the same kind of issues (check out the cheater/ breaker bar)



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To continue the deep Isaan research mission, a night in Nakhon Rachasima (commonly known as "korat") was called for. It's one of the biggest cities in Thailand and has numerous large factories in the area.


Wanting somewhere to rest our heads in the center of town, the Punjadara Hotel at 950 Bht seemed a good choice



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Great location, I would stay there again


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Harri had told us that the Check Inn restaurant is one of the best for western food in Korat some info in the link below:


Check Inn Pub in Korat ? Nakhon Ratchasima « Isaan.com




We'd also been told about "The Big Chilli" restaurant and gave it a try. More in the link below:



https://www.facebook.com/BigChiliKorat


FlickrDroid Upload by Triangle Golden 007, on Flickr




Food was passable but not outstanding, would try the Check Inn next time for sure


FlickrDroid Upload by Triangle Golden 007, on Flickr





Tip: Check out the evening Kareoke on the ground level of the Punjadara Hotel, its one of the strangest you'll ever go to, not seedy and lots of fun, we had a real laugh in there.




.
 
That KTM dealership is well setup and good to hear that the CRF is keeping the pace Bob.
 
Back tracking very slightly, getting into central Bangkok (especially Sukhumvit) by motorcycle is not fun. Your bike will run hot with all the stopping, some overheat. Try and avoid taking metal pannier boxes at all costs as with them you'll be too wide to split the car traffic lanes, slowing your traffic jam progress significantly.


Most of us have found that Garmin GPS's are very difficult to use in Bangkok due to roads under roads in the elevated toll road sections, it's hard to tell where you should be and easy to mess up. What we did on this trip, was once we got south of Rangsit (Don Muang Airport area), where the elevated toll roads start, we used an Android phone with Sygic mapping software


https://www.sygic.com/en



The Samsung S 5 has amazing screen brightness, some reflection from the glass screen but not too bad. With some elastic bands, fitted easily on in front of the Garmin Montana, so in perfect view. The new Samsung S 5 is proclaimed to be waterproof, but heat is still a problem, they have not be designed to sit in the sun all day.


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It's the way to go until Garmin catch up with city navigation. We didn't make one mistake coming into Sukhumvit, made it really easy.



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Below is our GPS track file getting out of Sukhumvit that might be useful for Bangkok entry



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We took bikesncats's recommendation and gave Bally's hotel at the end of Sukhumvit / Soi 20 a try. 1,400 bht excluding breakfast, pretty good value for location




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Good, safe, offstreet parking for the bikes, so great touring hotel.





Lightemup was back from delivering high-milk-producing cows across the Indian Ocean, so managed a dinner in the sky with him while there




If you like a Ruby, the Raj Mahal Indian is tough to top


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Next day 700km's back to Chiang Mai in one go, Bob's CRF 250 did it without a hitch.







PS - No one fell off ;)
 
Total distance covered was 2,261 km, we both agreed it was a really enjoyable tour as it was completely different to what we normally do with some great Isaan experiences



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Nice! :DD
I like the way we share useful info on RA.
Eateries, accommodation, roads, bike shops etc.
But I may have missed it; 'research mission'??
 
Nice! :DD
I like the way we share useful info on RA.
Eateries, accommodation, roads, bike shops etc.
But I may have missed it; 'research mission'??

I would call it more gastronomical mission, work in progress

Sent from my SM-G900F using Forum Runner
 
[QUOTE
But I may have missed it; 'research mission'??[/QUOTE]



Without research how could this information be sourced and then shared?
 
Fair enough; it's just that when I read the title I thought you guys were onto a specific research topic within Central Isaan.
 
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