Big adventure KTM's to Laos

KTMphil

Senior member
Joined
Jan 11, 2011
Location
Chiang Mai, Thailand
Bikes
2007 KTM 990 Adventure Suzuki DRZ 400
A test for the big KTM's before we take them to China, a tour around the north of Laos

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Officials super friendly on the Thai side of the international border crossing as usual



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Huay Khon/ Muan Nguen/ Hongsa border, no problems with the aftermarket exhaust, some have been turned back to quieten it down before entry into Laos was allowed. Breezed through Laos Customs, time for some beautiful riding trails and roads.


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Looks like it will be Hongsa for the night, the Hongsa power station at dusk

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Scary how much Hongsa has changed since the power station emerged. The town has moved westwards nearer to the power station, the cool, old market in town is no more. Huge new PTT in Hongsa with Amazon Coffee & Jiffy/ 7-11 style everything store. This will kill all the local merchant shops with its purchasing power that have been there forever, such a shame, the town is about to lose its character.


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You cant believe this is Hongsa with the fancy coffee shop


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Into Hongsa for the night and tried the Konglan GH for the night behind the old market. Run by some nice people and great rooms.

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With the unseasonal rain around, we asked about the condition of the unmade road to Luang Prabang, locals said it was dry, so with road rear tires should be an issue.


R4 before the dirt turn

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Then onto the hard packed clay


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The trails is being transformed into a shortcut to Luang Prabang, this has always been a fun ride and will be gone soon.


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As we got further north east, the construction got nastier and nastier


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Intermittent sections of silky smooth graded trails


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Towards the middle there's some major earth moving going on, our timing wasnt good as there was no easy way through

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This was the only way around, up to a ledge then pass above where the road will be. We watched and the Honda Wave's couldnt get up there unassisted which wasnt a good sign. Nothing for it but to see how far we could get up there with the 100+ horse power.

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Here we go

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Doing good


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Back wheel starting to spin as it got steeper

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Narrow, nasty and running out of steam

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Plenty of local help


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All over and to the area where we can get around
 
Excitement over, back on the main trail, time for a water break


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The river crossings were all pretty shallow. This loaded truck was having some major problems getting up the far side river bank


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He tried every part of the bank churning it all up and couldnt get out, we'd have to go around him

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He backed into the river gave us some space


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All nice and easy and through to Luang Prabang early afternoon

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Ferry was packed across the Mekong


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The visiting Chinese liked the look of the big bikes


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Awesome food at Joma as usual


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The massive excavation as we traverse the ledge

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Down the other side didnt look much fun

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Loose soil and steep around the blocked road, this could turn into some drama

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This is how it looks like from the air - we had to wait there for about an hour before we could continue our trip to Luang Prabang. Our truck is just visible on the other side of the site on a steep section. But before they stopped the work for lunch, they leveled the road for us as well as for the motorbike riders who had to wait also.

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Picture copyright "The Big Fellah"
 
Beautiful ride over to Phonsavan, something you dont see often in Thailand now, people walking. It seems you can identify the poorer communities in Laos by the concentration of walkers that dont have scooters or even bicycles.


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As you get further east towards Vietnam, the villages have a wild west feel about them


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Foreign overlander near Phonsavan

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Into Phonsavan for the evening


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The beautiful suspension bridge nearby

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Hospital bombed during the Vietnam War

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The famous Buddha left in tact inside the Wat ruins


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One of the real special photo opportunities in Laos


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Phonsavan Airport always has a spooky feel to it, almost feels haunted


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The wrecks of the Russian Migs on the left of the photo

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A golf course is being built on one side of the airport in Phonsavan, its going to be a huge development with lakes etc...


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Military look outs on the airport grounds next to the golf course development


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Back into town and hoping this doesn't fall off

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Some construction south of town


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A good night in Phonsavan at the new Cranky T restaurant. "Cranky" went to school in San Diego, USA, speaks perfect English.


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Great food & reasonably priced wine

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A good nights sleep in Phonsavan. The next day, first oil change on the KTM 1190 Adventure R.


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Off for a look around the morning market while this was completed.


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Watermelons

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Sticky rice in bamboo

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Root vegetables

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Fish


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Pond vegatables


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Sweet potato

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Masses of pork


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All oiled up and fed, off westwards towards the Thai border, Ed who came through Myanmar from India below


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Lots of armed soldiers stationed along the Kasi - Muang Nan road, no checkpoints though


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A beautiful, high elevation road


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What a huge job it must have been to cut this


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Nasty landslide section


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Caved in part on a nasty bend


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A road with amazing scenery

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Clouds blowing over the top


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Over the pass & down the other side towards Xayabouri



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A road with very unique scenery


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Passed Muang Nan & off towards Xayabouri, amazing deep greens with the 1 month old rice shooting

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Lovely twisties on R 4


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The new bridge in Parklay nearing completion


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Soon the ferry will be out of business

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Refill from beautiful pump attendant's & then breeze into Xayabouri

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The Saylomyen GH in Xayabouri is interesting in many ways & a good place to unwind and relax for the night with clean rooms


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Great restaurant 200 meters around the corner

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Amazing home made fries


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