Adventures between a Cliff and a Wet Place. Brighty in Central Asia and Mongolia

DSCN7262DRZGSXRLoncinKyrgyz.jpg

Some (new) bag of sh!t Chinese Lonchin 125 thing. But nice stickers eh? A DRZ Gixxer. The ultimate Adventure bike?
Somebody on a different forum recons that the Lonchin company has, since 2008, made the engines that go into the BMW G 650 GS. Not my thing, either made in Germany or made in China. I do however still like the idea of a Gixxer engine in a DRZ chassis :)
 
Hi guys
Haven’t posted in a while. Been busy moving house, sorting matrimonial issues and riding the "parts donor" Transalp (an 87 shed: You'll recall the trip bike is an 88 model with a 98 bodykit)

Bulgaria1.jpg


Bulgaria2.jpg

from snowy Bulgaria (Doug's in Idilevo Riding, Fun, Adventures! | MotoSapiense ) to Istanbul/Turkey, where it was a bit less snowy, only just though! Met some great Turkish bikers from http://www.facebook.com/groups/kuzgunmotor/ also called http://www.facebook.com/groups/turkeybiker/ in Istanbul!

Anyway, I digress. After sorting the bike and enjoying the R and R time it was time to head through the Altai region towards the border with Mongolia at Tashanta. There’s quite a few pictures. Hopefully they give a flavour of this beautiful part of the world.

DSCN7414TruckOnBridge.jpg

Truck on a bridge

DSCN7413PrettyValley.jpg

Beautiful valley

DSCN7410DuctTape.jpg

I was impressed with myself! I managed to track down some real (Russian) duct tape. I needed it. The bike is held together with it and cable/zip ties :-)

DSCN7409ChipAndPin.jpg

The new Russian chip and pin reader

DSCN7406RussianCyclists.jpg

I met these nice Russian cyclists from Ekaterinburg on their summer vacation. The lady spoke good English and told me the Russian for tyre changer:

DSCN7408Tyrechange.jpg

This is where I probably was a bit heavy handed and blew out the sprocket carrier bearing which caused a few issues after I reached Ulaan Baatar.

DSCN7401DnyproutfitRunOutOfFuel.jpg

Spotted this outfit on the side of the road and pulled over. A couple of minutes later this young lad rocks up with a container of petrol, pours it in the tank, kicks the engine over and rides off.

[video=youtube_share;tpoxL8iqXs8]http://youtu.be/tpoxL8iqXs8[/video]
Russian Dnepr Outfit Altai Russia - YouTube

In the next village, I spot him again with 2 girls: One in the chair and one on the back. Bikes = babes?

DSCN7391EvenothertrafficinAltai.jpg

Wow, another road user, shortly before the checkpoint where I wasn’t permitted to ride my off-pavement “shortcut” any further. The Russian Army officer spoke Spanish (!) and mine was ok enough to be told I was riding too close to the Kazakh border. Bollocks, I had to ride all the way back to the main road!

DSCN4247AltaiHouse.jpg

Altai house

DSCN7385ClarksonWozEre.jpg

Clarkson/ Hammond/ May were ‘ere.

DSCN7377AltaiRiverScene.jpg

Altai river scene

DSCN7371RussianAfricaTwin.jpg

Overtook these Russian chaps on an Africa Twin. It had an eclectic mix of body panels. Why are they carrying a totally shagged rear tyre on the back?

DSCN4249Altaiwildcampsite.jpg

Wild camp.

DSCN4253AltaiCowsInRiver.jpg

Ok, looks like I’m riding the bridge…

DSCN4265Sunsetthroughfrontwheel.jpg

Sunset just before Mongolia border.

DSCN4267afteranotherwildcampnearborder.jpg

The next morning. I had just ridden 2 miles perpendicular to the paved road and pitched my tent, because I reckoned it would be better (and cheaper) than sleeping in the border town.


Will be in touch again much more frequently than since the last instalment.

See you later.
 
You can take a man out of brighty but you cannot take brighty out of the man !! ;)

Brilliant Chris, thanks for sharing.

Ally
 
Here's a couple more maps of my route between Almaty and the Russian/ Mongolia border at Tashanta with one or two comments of what happened (or didn't) en route.

summer2012map4.jpg

Almaty to Russian border

summer2012map5.jpg

The Altai region of Russia


Mongolia pictures coming next…
 
I really want to get my 990 up there for a month, thanks for the inspiration Chris.

You've got to do it. A superb riding part of the world. Mongolia is even more special...

You can take a man out of brighty but you cannot take brighty out of the man !! ;)

Brilliant Chris, thanks for sharing.

Ally

:G I'd rather be in Thailand at the mo than wet/snowy/stormy Blighty!:)
 
Chris - Those maps are really useful, gives a good idea of what to expect, if you've got more I'd love to see them so I can print them out.
 
Great pictures and map's Chris, i especially like the bikers bar theme and even more so your choice of subject matter of the female variety, any more pictures you would like to share.:LOL

Can't say i'm missing Huddersfield looking at the snow pictures.
 
Chris - Those maps are really useful, gives a good idea of what to expect, if you've got more I'd love to see them so I can print them out.

The base map is from OSM and the waypoints are kindly donated by Walter Colebatch at Siberia - Mongolia - Central Asia waypoints - Horizons Unlimited - The HUBB I can email you my track logs to give you an idea of where to go/or not (Cliffs etc. :-) )

Great pictures and map's Chris, i especially like the bikers bar theme and even more so your choice of subject matter of the female variety, any more pictures you would like to share.:LOL

Can't say i'm missing Huddersfield looking at the snow pictures.

There are 2 types of ladies in Central Asia/ Russia. The ones that live in the cities, where you like the pictures and the (predominantly) functional ones that live in the countryside, where photos aren't needed. My off-road trips lead mainly around the countryside, so I don't have as much eye-candy to share as I'd like. :-(

Up until end December I was living at a HD postcode, now in a BD postcode. Both cold.... I've got SE Asia penciled in again for a trip in December.
 
Can't say i'm missing Huddersfield looking at the snow pictures.

Just re-read your post: The 2 snow pictures were taken in Bulgaria just before Christmas. Although it was snowing here in W.Yorks. last week too.;)
 
Well it's persisting it down in Chiang Rai right now, god only knows whats going on with the weather these days, hope to bump into you if your over our end in December.

Ride safe
 
Sorry, muy tres sorry. Haven't posted in a while. There's a genuine reason: After entering Mongolia I attached a soundsystem to my bike, like this dude's...

Mongolian bike with sound system - YouTube

[video=youtube_share;uhzZkiJVgWY]http://youtu.be/uhzZkiJVgWY[/video]



went for a swim...

How To Not Cross A River In Mongolia - YouTube

[video=youtube_share;6maYFQEnokk]http://youtu.be/6maYFQEnokk[/video]



and became a cannibal... The human flesh gave me a bit of a funny turn :-(

DSCN7507madmongolcannibal.jpg


I've been sectioned, but they're letting me out next week, so maybe I'll be able to publish a bit more stuff then.

cheers!
 
Again, apologies for the late instalment of Brighty’s capers out east. Welcome to Mongolia.

Here’s the forcast: The weather was mainly Shiite with some Sunni intervals. This was allegedly the worst summer in terms of rain for many years. For us it was changeable. Everything from sun to cloud, rain storms, hail, sleet, snow, me and Moritz had it all.

I ended up riding with Moritz, whom I had already hung out with in Barnaul after it turned out that that Germans get on even less with les escargot –munchers than the Pommies. We got on well, I think.

I crossed the border from Tashanta to Tsagaannuur. Or rather, I tried to. I nearly never made it into Mongolia. I had a visa, but it wasn’t valid! Why? The Mongol matie in London forgot to sign it. So 6 hours at the border, with the head of the local immigration office uttering the words: “It is not the problem of the immigration service of Mongolia if the consular service of London is incompetent”. I was very lucky to be able to buy a new visa at the border.
DSCN7424mongolrallycarsatborder.jpg

Mongol “rally” cars at the border. They’d each be at the border for about 36 hours. The time it took to process their import papers.

DSCN7427inclkitchensinkA-1.jpg

In Olgi we saw this ridiculous shed. He made it to Ulan Bataar via the southern route. His mates had to do a lot of pushing.

DSCN7430inclkitchensinkB-1.jpg


Another pic of this monstrous beast. Not only did he buy the entire bling catalogue, but he could carry about a 1000 catalogues.

Mongolian bike stereo
A local biker with “attitude”

Myself and Moritz rode to Olgi then cut north to Ulangom.

DSC_1493Driedriverbed.jpg

Dried out river bed

DSCN4277matieandhisposse.jpg

There’s lots of horses in Mongolia. And horse men. They were friendly enough.

DSCN4282horseswmongolia.jpg

Personality goes a long way

DSCN7442walterwozere.jpg

Walter Colebatch woz ere.

DSCN4287eaglethatiwastakingapictureof.jpg

Near Walter’s sign, while taking a picture of this eagle I totally missed the pretty, not begging, polite girl looking at me:

smilinggirlwesternmongolia.jpg



DSCN7451changableweather.jpg

Changeable weather


Mongolian drunks on moped


A lot of the roads were like this. Some were worse, not many better

DSCN7453thefoodonlygotworse.jpg

Here we still had some Russian food. It tasted great. Mongolian food varies between sh!te and non-existent. Just as sh!te as the Korean H!te beer.

DSCN7456crossingpassinsnow.jpg

Crossing a mountain pass in the snow


Moritz crossing stream


DSC_1508erniejoinsthetrip.jpg

At a junction from the dirt road and the pavement, not that far from Ulangom we stop for comfort break. There I spot Ernie and he joins the trip.

DSCN7461tentthiefoncctv.jpg

We end up leaving Ulangom late because Moritz’s tent was stolen off the back of his parked bike. The hotel had CCTV. This is the moment they spotted the thief. Somebody recognised him. He was later brought to the hotel by the police with the missing tent. I can’t explain why, but the left side of his face looked rather mashed in. Police brutality? Of course not… I suppose he won’t be thieving stuff again in a hurry, nor meeting any women, with his now, Neanderthal looks.

We left at lunchtime, far too late, but…

There was this little river across the main road…

How not to cross a river… and when you’ve really messed up, how to sort it.
 
Nice pictures looks like your having a whale of a time
 
A day of dead ends north of Lake Khyargas…

After the little river incident (the Wet Place…) from the previous episode I checked the engine oil the following morning at the hotel. Well above max and that lovely milky colour we all dread. We managed to cobble together 2 ½ litres of oil and I was carrying a spare oil filter. I debated asking the hotel reception whether I was allowed to do an oil change at the hotel. As I wouldn’t necessarily like the answer, I did it anyway without asking! There was an old kettle around the back and I hid behind the laundry room.

Overnight I dried stuff including gaffer taping my gloves to the spotlight in the bathroom, narrowly avoiding burning the hotel down.

Some video footage filmed and edited by Moritz that give you a flavour of what we encountered.

Wild Mongolia - YouTube
[video=youtube_share;B4wKh_2msO8]http://youtu.be/B4wKh_2msO8[/video]

Funny camels at 2min... The post at 2.45 mins isn't a fencepost. We stuck it there to guide us after recceing the best place to cross the stream/terrain.


DSCN4308Hitebeer.jpg


The (S)Hite beer mentioned in the previous episode.


dayofmanyinterestingdeadends.jpg


Tracklog from Mapsource after spending a fun day trying to rejoin the Northern route from the Middle route because the Reiseknow paper map said there was one. We couldn't find it. All tracks lead to sheer drop-offs or dead ends.


DSC_0010cblakewmongolia_zps62c9c50d.jpg


What a view!



DSC_0021detouralleyNrLakeKhyargas.jpg


Lake Khyargas in the distance



DSCN7491anotherdeadend.jpg


No way through!


DSCN4320admiringtheview.jpg


A moment of contemplation?


DSCN7473probableknockingshop.jpg


I got the impression this was a knocking shop... The only building for 10s of miles around


DSCN4318beer3.jpg


Beer oclock?

DSCN4315beer1.jpg


Easy does it. Don't spill any!

DSCN4317beer2.jpg


Duff beer?


DSCN4312Abikewithout.jpg


A bike without a front wheel (nor forks) is only half a bike

DSCN7468funnylocal1.jpg


Funny local man who even spoke a few words of German


DSCN7469funnylocal2.jpg


:-)

DSC_0040anothergreatfreecamp.jpg


Another great campsite, although (yet another) storm blew up over night. My Vango tent held firm


DSCN4337erniemongolia.jpg


Ernie catching some rays


DSC_0033Mongoliansliketheirhorses.jpg


Mongolians do like their horses
 
Thanks for the report Chris some lovely pictures of the chilly Albanian countryside, think i will stick with the 36 degrees we have today LOL
 
Right guys
This is it. Finally, the final chapter. I need to get this out and get outta here. Too many nice Brit roads to ride, fun to have and this summer's trip to Siberia to plan, without having this ancient RR hanging over me any longer.

Hope you've enjoyed it. It's good to get feedback. I now appreciate how hard people work to produce a good RR.

These pics appear to be in no particular order and some are indeed a bit random, but the weather was very very changeable, although consistently shiite.

DSC_1521chillingbythefire.jpg

Chilling by the fire




DSC_1528creepycrawly.jpg

Creep crawley



DSCN7493girls.jpg

Young girls (stunned by Moritz's good looks? )



DSC_0089wildcampwmongolia.jpg

Mongolia is one big campsite... My fav pic of the trip


DSCN7502tellytubies.jpg

What's with the Telly Tubbies?



DSCN7506happydrunkmongolia.jpg

A happy Mongolian drunk



DSCN7507madItellya.jpg

Barkin'


DSCN4362iloveeandc1.jpg

The car that Russ Malkin, E and C's prat friend rolled?


DSCN4361iloveeandc2.jpg

It must be: Their names are on the door!


DSCN7514curiousdog.jpg

A friendly, curious dog


DSCN4370comeinguys.jpg

Come in guys...


DSC_0106sleepingbeautyinagerinrainstorm.jpg

Sleeping beauty sheltering from yet another rain storm


DSC_0108aftertherain.jpg

After the rain


DSCN4378fourseasonsinaday.jpg

4 seasons in a day


DSCN4383touristeagle.jpg

Tourist eagle


DSCN7538niceass.jpg

Arriving in Ulan Baatar: Mmmmm, nice definition


DSCN7542blokestolecopperstrunchion.jpg

The second bloke has just stolen the copper's trunchion!


DSCN7551beforeandafterstillugly.jpg

Before and after: but still ugly!


DSCN7558jeffreypolnaja.jpg

Jeffrey Polnaja from Indonesia on a charity RTW ride at the Oasis GH


DSCN7563shaggedandnewfronttyre.jpg

Shagged MT21 and new K69


DSCN4399strikingapose.jpg

Striking a pose



DSCN7635worth600bucks.jpg

At Customs convincing them my bike is worth only 600 bucks


DSCN7652storedforthewinter.jpg

Stored in the Oasis cellar for the winter in advance of a 2013 Siberian ride

Safe travels!

See you on the road
Brighty
 
Back
Top Bottom