CraigBKK
Senior Member
I met Michael at daybreak on a crisp Bangkok morning, which would turn into a long, cold and disappointing December day.
We headed due east on minor roads and dirt tracks, through the province of Chachoensao to Sa Kaew. The wind that brought a cold snap made putting a windbreaker jacket on necessary and a pleasant change from the usual hot temperatures of Bangkok.
Over a late lunch in Aranyaprathet we discussed for the first time crossing into Cambodia there rather than at Chong Chom as planned. We both knew of the bad reputation of Poipet, the Cambodian border town on the other side but thought it was worth a try. Unfortunately it turned out to be a frustrating mistake.
After passing without issue through both Thai and Cambodian Immigration, albeit with an additional 'charge' on the Cambodian side, we were denied entry with our Thai motorbikes at Customs. Appears that this is a common problem at this crossing where a permit needs to be applied for in advance. Defeated we re-entered Thailand and found a room for the cold night.
The following morning was as cold as the previous and the ride north along the border route 3446 was scenic and fresh, punctuated with army checkpoints and herds of cattle.
By early afternoon we had reached Chong Chom and crossed into Osmach on the Cambodian side without too much trouble (the Cambodian immigration officer wanted $35 for the visa but I showed him the one from the previous day and politely refused). We headed to the nearby town of Anlong Veng, the last stronghold of the Khmer Rouge, to spend our first night in Cambodia.
After staying at the night at the pleasant and cheap Monorom Villa ($8) and tasting Cambodian stout for the first time, the following morning we rode due south to Siam Reap.
Due to arriving in the afternoon and leaving the following morning we didn't want to purchase the rather expensive multi-day passes to the famous Khmer temples here. Instead we spent the evening riding around the ruins without entering until told to leave by officials claiming that a pass is needed to even ride the public roads in the area.
The following morning we left Siam Reap heading east on the historical Route 66 with the intention of looping round to join up with the National Highway 6 further south.
The track began with soft sand but was easy going. Once we had to divert due to a flooded paddy field and were turned around at one temple ruins because we didn't have a pass but by late morning we managed to find a ruin that didn't require a pass to visit.
The dusty track continued over several ancient Angkorian period bridges until it narrowed and became more and more rutted from the tractors that the locals use in the area. In one particularly heavily rutted section Michael and his bike's chain unceremoniously parted.
Finally, after losing each other and taking several dead-end tracks we decided it was best to cut our loses and turn around (N 13.40863 E 104. 57913). It was 3pm by now and we just didn't know how much more of the rutted tracks there were. We were already exhausted and water was running low.
About 12km back on the track was the small village of Khvao where we had eaten lunch. After rehydrating we turned left and followed the gravel tertiary road that lead us to the National Highway. Continuing on the highway we arrived in Kampong Thom just after dark.
The following morning we had a leisurely ride into the capital Phnom Penh as neither of us could check in to our hotel rooms until the afternoon. After my first Indian meal of the trip and the first of many happy hour draft beers I checked in to 'Le Grand Mekhong' hotel on the river front.
The next few days I had a great time exploring Phnom Penh for the first time and relaxing along the river front. The weather was sunny but still chilly and the Indian food and beer good and cheap; I enjoyed my time in PP.
After a few days of relaxing in the capital it was time to get back on the bike and head upstream of the Mekhong to Kampong Cham to see the famous long bamboo bridge. Rather than taking the more direct route we rode along the west bank, staying as close to the river as possible. The weather had changed and become grey and dull.
The weather had changed and so had the mood. I'd been involved in my first ever vehicle collision in the morning and spent a few hours at a local hospital with a teenage boy who was injured when our bikes collided. Hopefully he learnt to ride a little slower, but I doubt it.
It was raining and the bamboo bridge was no where to be found. To make matters worse we were staying at the prison like 'Mekhong Hotel'. Not at the top of my list of places to return to.
***
The following day we again rode the banks of the Mekhong, firstly up to the Khum Trea ferry, then along the east bank up to the old town of Krachie, famous for being one of the few remaining places to see the Irrawaddy (freshwater) dolphin.
We had originally planned to head East from Krachie but due to me wanting to get back to Bangkok for New Year's Eve we changed our plans and headed North to Stung Treng, close to the Southern Lao border.
Again we took the riverside option, which turned into an interesting single track at times, passing through some rutted areas, over wooden toll bridges (we never stopped to pay) and a detour off the GPS track, before connecting with the National Highway 7.
At Stung Treng we stayed in the excellent value and located 'Four Rivers Hotel', costing $15 a night for a riverside view, complete with it's own skybar. Stung Treng is at the confluence of two rivers which I know well from my time travelling in Laos, The Mekhong and The Kong, which gives the Lao province of Sekong it's name, Se, meaning 'river' in Southern Lao dialect.
From Stung Treng we began to head West. Although I had enjoyed the country and much of the riding I couldn't help think how flat and dusty much of the terrain we had seen was. Another unfortunate observation was the level of deforestation that was clearly evident.
The next afternoon we arrived in Preah Vihear and stayed at the recommended 'Home Vatthanak' Guest house (N 13.80463 E 104.97591). Finding food proved to be frustrating for a late lunch but eventually we came across the excellent 'Green House' Restaurant (N 13.802668 E 104.978696).
The following morning we again headed West with the plan of going to Choam on the Thai border to see if we would be allowed to exit there. If refused we would return to Anlong Veng where we spent our first night in Cambodia and exit at our entry point, Osmach, the following day.
The ride was again hot and flat, with the only mountains in sight, those that run along the political border of Cambodia and Thailand.
When we arrived at the border we asked the Cambodian Customs if exiting with our bike would be OK, the official seemed more than happy for us to do this and asked for no paperwork (we had none anyway). Before we crossed back into Thailand we paid a short and curious visit to Pol Pot's grave situated just a few hundred metres from the border. A rather morbid and bizarre way to finish this short ride to Cambodia.
We headed due east on minor roads and dirt tracks, through the province of Chachoensao to Sa Kaew. The wind that brought a cold snap made putting a windbreaker jacket on necessary and a pleasant change from the usual hot temperatures of Bangkok.
Over a late lunch in Aranyaprathet we discussed for the first time crossing into Cambodia there rather than at Chong Chom as planned. We both knew of the bad reputation of Poipet, the Cambodian border town on the other side but thought it was worth a try. Unfortunately it turned out to be a frustrating mistake.
After passing without issue through both Thai and Cambodian Immigration, albeit with an additional 'charge' on the Cambodian side, we were denied entry with our Thai motorbikes at Customs. Appears that this is a common problem at this crossing where a permit needs to be applied for in advance. Defeated we re-entered Thailand and found a room for the cold night.
The following morning was as cold as the previous and the ride north along the border route 3446 was scenic and fresh, punctuated with army checkpoints and herds of cattle.
By early afternoon we had reached Chong Chom and crossed into Osmach on the Cambodian side without too much trouble (the Cambodian immigration officer wanted $35 for the visa but I showed him the one from the previous day and politely refused). We headed to the nearby town of Anlong Veng, the last stronghold of the Khmer Rouge, to spend our first night in Cambodia.
After staying at the night at the pleasant and cheap Monorom Villa ($8) and tasting Cambodian stout for the first time, the following morning we rode due south to Siam Reap.
Due to arriving in the afternoon and leaving the following morning we didn't want to purchase the rather expensive multi-day passes to the famous Khmer temples here. Instead we spent the evening riding around the ruins without entering until told to leave by officials claiming that a pass is needed to even ride the public roads in the area.
The following morning we left Siam Reap heading east on the historical Route 66 with the intention of looping round to join up with the National Highway 6 further south.
The track began with soft sand but was easy going. Once we had to divert due to a flooded paddy field and were turned around at one temple ruins because we didn't have a pass but by late morning we managed to find a ruin that didn't require a pass to visit.
The dusty track continued over several ancient Angkorian period bridges until it narrowed and became more and more rutted from the tractors that the locals use in the area. In one particularly heavily rutted section Michael and his bike's chain unceremoniously parted.
Finally, after losing each other and taking several dead-end tracks we decided it was best to cut our loses and turn around (N 13.40863 E 104. 57913). It was 3pm by now and we just didn't know how much more of the rutted tracks there were. We were already exhausted and water was running low.
About 12km back on the track was the small village of Khvao where we had eaten lunch. After rehydrating we turned left and followed the gravel tertiary road that lead us to the National Highway. Continuing on the highway we arrived in Kampong Thom just after dark.
The following morning we had a leisurely ride into the capital Phnom Penh as neither of us could check in to our hotel rooms until the afternoon. After my first Indian meal of the trip and the first of many happy hour draft beers I checked in to 'Le Grand Mekhong' hotel on the river front.
The next few days I had a great time exploring Phnom Penh for the first time and relaxing along the river front. The weather was sunny but still chilly and the Indian food and beer good and cheap; I enjoyed my time in PP.
After a few days of relaxing in the capital it was time to get back on the bike and head upstream of the Mekhong to Kampong Cham to see the famous long bamboo bridge. Rather than taking the more direct route we rode along the west bank, staying as close to the river as possible. The weather had changed and become grey and dull.
The weather had changed and so had the mood. I'd been involved in my first ever vehicle collision in the morning and spent a few hours at a local hospital with a teenage boy who was injured when our bikes collided. Hopefully he learnt to ride a little slower, but I doubt it.
It was raining and the bamboo bridge was no where to be found. To make matters worse we were staying at the prison like 'Mekhong Hotel'. Not at the top of my list of places to return to.
***
We had originally planned to head East from Krachie but due to me wanting to get back to Bangkok for New Year's Eve we changed our plans and headed North to Stung Treng, close to the Southern Lao border.
Again we took the riverside option, which turned into an interesting single track at times, passing through some rutted areas, over wooden toll bridges (we never stopped to pay) and a detour off the GPS track, before connecting with the National Highway 7.
At Stung Treng we stayed in the excellent value and located 'Four Rivers Hotel', costing $15 a night for a riverside view, complete with it's own skybar. Stung Treng is at the confluence of two rivers which I know well from my time travelling in Laos, The Mekhong and The Kong, which gives the Lao province of Sekong it's name, Se, meaning 'river' in Southern Lao dialect.
From Stung Treng we began to head West. Although I had enjoyed the country and much of the riding I couldn't help think how flat and dusty much of the terrain we had seen was. Another unfortunate observation was the level of deforestation that was clearly evident.
The next afternoon we arrived in Preah Vihear and stayed at the recommended 'Home Vatthanak' Guest house (N 13.80463 E 104.97591). Finding food proved to be frustrating for a late lunch but eventually we came across the excellent 'Green House' Restaurant (N 13.802668 E 104.978696).
The following morning we again headed West with the plan of going to Choam on the Thai border to see if we would be allowed to exit there. If refused we would return to Anlong Veng where we spent our first night in Cambodia and exit at our entry point, Osmach, the following day.
The ride was again hot and flat, with the only mountains in sight, those that run along the political border of Cambodia and Thailand.
When we arrived at the border we asked the Cambodian Customs if exiting with our bike would be OK, the official seemed more than happy for us to do this and asked for no paperwork (we had none anyway). Before we crossed back into Thailand we paid a short and curious visit to Pol Pot's grave situated just a few hundred metres from the border. A rather morbid and bizarre way to finish this short ride to Cambodia.
