Thailand ride from Hua Hin to Laos by Burma side, Chiang Mai and 1148

pib

Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2011
Trying to end the english version of my trip report...
:roll:
http://www.rideasia.net/motorcycle-forum/thailand-ride-reports/1461-arriving-thailand.html


All Thailand Pics:
https://plus.google.com/photos/1093...uthkey=COL1kfjvgcanwwE&banner=pwa&gpsrc=pwrd1

My blog in french ( a bit too much detailed I know). Day by day, in english in this post. Thanks to google translate... sorry if I miss some stupid automatic translation sentences. I have tried to correct them, but not sure I got all of them!
http://pib-voyages.blogspot.hk

All GPS and road done day by day
http://pib-cartes.blogspot.hk/#!/
 
09/11 - The city of King, Hua Hin: The tour begins!
Weather: sunny, hot and dry, 30deg

I arrived from Hat Yai to Hua Hin by train. Bike also
Chilly night on the train, rather restless and noisy, but I still slept. The AC should be set to 10-12deg!

~ ~
The journey really begins now! Until this morning, the goal was to reach the south-west of Bangkok as soon as possible. 4 days, perfect. Let's roll!

My bike did not travel on the same train, 1 train ahead. Actually I am a bit worried... and yes, at the end of the dock on the other side, my bike is waiting! In perfect condition. I install my stuff and go in the direction of Kanchanaburi and Bridge Over the river Kwai. Not so easy to get out of the train station... there is no exit actually!

Quickly, I realized that the roads are approximate GPS and / or may be incorrectly positioned. My GPS track forecast turns when there is no road or turn etc. ... But I know when I continue my azimuth while losing myself a bit, deserted roads followed with wider roads in vegetation green but very dry. It was supposed to be completely flooded or almost ...

If the small country roads are very friendly, wider roads are not: trucks raise a lot of dust.
Finally, I arrive in Kanchanaburi, directly to the street "to" guesthouses and sit Pong Phen GH. It will be ready for tomorrow morning 9am.

Tomorrow, I expect a big day for Mae Sot to join Tek better or if it's too far: 400km better.

Already in Hua Hin, I saw some Thai-Thai but Kanchanaburi seems to be a popular place for old men on vacations looking for some specific kind of tourism.

Carnet de voyages: La ville du Roi, Hua Hin: le tour commence !

GPS: Cartes des voyages
 
10/11 - Azimut western Burmese border
Weather: Sunny interrupted by a downpour to Klong ~ 28-29 deg

Big day ahead because I have to reach Mae Sot (450-500km?). Standing at 7am, I am ready to 9am, lock and roll.
I pass very quickly see the Bridge River Kwai before deciding my route (rather disappointing as attraction ...).

Three options: through country roads, through parks or on the motorway.
I decide that it will not be the highway. I lost myself and turn around. It solves part of the problem, I can not go through the parks because I lost too much time. I will do 120km parks and then I'll find Route 70. Of 9:30, I'm on a good road, straight, clean and quiet (road 3086 by Nong Prue). Rice fields along the road, with the distant mountains to the West only interrupted by the cities or villages. They are almost all the same: a very wide main street (2 x 3 or 2 x 2 channels) on either side of shops of all kinds and then again the rice fields. Many stray dogs roam, not so great while riding a motorcycle ...

A little further, crossing a village is blocked by a procession of young women carried on "thrones". Will they get married? I wait and watch the parade, but I get a few drops of rain, the dark clouds away! Immediate halt to store camera and takemy raincoat. I had not finished looping the zipper: downpour! I spent 30 seconds downpour. Inevitably, the rain stopped after 5min and it's hot sauna ...

It is 16.30 and I am still far away. Pity for the scenery, I decided to draw on the motorway. I pester against myself because all the benefits of trying to cut through the county roads is almost lost, I took it towards the northeast to Tak. In Tak I could get the road Tak-Mae Sot. Highway (Route 1) is very average, but not very busy. Anyway kilometers keeps counting but Tak never arrive!

l have to decide if I sleep in Tak or if I take the mountain road at night because it is 17.45 when I get to the intersection (Route 105). Mae Sot is 70km, an hour away, but it is night. Decided I rush. Refueling done, headlights on, mask on, I take the road to Mae Sot. The beginning is a beautiful road then gradually as it shrinks, I find that the oncoming traffic is growing ... They overtake in the turns and I still do not see far enough.

I pass several police barrages and / or the army that make me waved through without stopping: obviously I dont have any interest for them. On a hill, I found myself behind a truck. It carries men! Over 2 floors! Those below are crammed into a floor 80cm, sitting like animals. A smuggler? I doubt with all these army barrages... but I meet some groups of people merchants along the road, I approach areas of Karen refugees who fled Burma and so tolerant democracy.

It is 19.00, rather flat when I come into town. Mae Sot is a great border bazaar, full of small markets, etc. ... I am lost for a good 30 minutes before finding the road where I could find a guesthouse. Once installed, I go into town for dinner try something, and comes in a nice restaurant, without doubt held by refugees: pictures of Aung San Sukyi, posters etc ...
But what a day I have done: beautiful but too long and even my mistakes without navigation, I was too optimistic lesson!

Carnet de voyages: Azimut Ouest, frontière Birmane


GPS : Cartes des voyages
 
11/11/11 (a number one day :kboom)

Burma? Just on the other side of the river
By leaving I talk to an American who goes on a journey. He lived there for five years and asks if it is possible to visit the refugee camps. I have carried all over with some packs of old clothes to give them directly to those whom need them...

So I asked the daughter of the owner of my guesthousemy way, she talks to me about an "highway" ... it becomes an obsession! I want smaller roads, not "highways". Anyway, there's only one way. The road is very pleasant to Mae Samat, wide, winding or straight, a little shady (and many snakes on the road ... dead or alive!). Little or no traffic. That's the way I expected.

There are numerous police stops, I'm going through without slowing down or almost. I cross or rather runs many camps: villages like in the movies of the Dark Ages ... the earth by way of walkways without a car or motorcycle, straw houses without electricity with smoke billowing from the roof , animals in the middle of the kids etc ... all surrounded by fences. It's nice, but what happens to these villages and lives during the rainy season??

The road narrows again in the forest, and I pass an orphanage turn to give the clothes I have left.
The road is wider, but the rampant vegetation cover and are only 2m either side of the center line! Empty Road. Construction works are on going to wideen it. But immediatly after it is a small small road, almost a one way road, mountain, non-maintained for years ... branches, potholes etc. ... I really wonder if I am on the right track because the contrast is violent with this morning! GPS and maps confirm that I am on the right road. So I continue the road and displays impressive slopes! how other vehicles? No problem for me, but the steep are 15% and also steep descents.

Then again work on the road, so I think to find a more "normal" way. Nay, I am now on a small mountain road! I meet two bikers touring like me, but it is 16.00! Where do they go?

The road is beautiful, with a muddy river on the left. This is the border with Burma.

Suddenly, the horizon widens and is arriving in a plain plateau. Until now, rice mountains, small, were stairs. There were only a few buffaloes and villagers lost in the mountains. The tray provides greater ranges and is the arrival in Mae Sariang.

And here I thought may be to go to Mae Hong Song by the famous "highway."

I found my way up Northwest GH for 400 baht, AC and hot shower. In the same GH, discussions with two Canadians working six months of the year in the Yukon (border with Alaska) and six months in Southeast Asia to walk and ride motorcycles! Logical imagining the winter months in the Yukon ...

Carnet de voyages: La Birmanie ? Juste de l?autre côté de la rivière

GPS: Cartes des voyages
 
12/11 - To the west of the Golden Triangle
Weather: Exceptional, big blue sky, 25-26deg

I get up early and I found my two Canadians. We talk, we talk a lot even. I gleaned a lot of advice on the northern Laos and they invite me to push up Wang Xai. To Mae Hong Song or Soppong / Tam Lod.


The road is good, shady, sometimes a little too much so I can not take beautiful pictures, but through the branches, the outlook is beautiful: mountains or hills of sight and nothing else! Not much higher or lower, the road passes from top of the hill to an other top and from valley to valley. this almost deserted road. The slopes are just enormous.

Some small potholes require me to not watch only the scenery! I travel 160 km in 3 hours on the road that gently away from the Burmese border.

Here I am in Mae Hong Son at 14.30. Rather pleasant little town, despite the fresh mid-day. After a good lunch, I decided to continue on Tam Lod, not without assuring myself a room was available at Cave Lodge (SOPPONG-LOOKING FOR THE BEST ACCOMMODATION TREKKING, CAVING, KAYAKING, RAFTING AND WILD NATURE IN THE SOPPONG-PAI-MAE HONG SON AREA?).
It seems to me that the road is more curvy than this morning! And it is because it will take me 2 hours to travel the 60km: have to make several pauses, because the bike is still a minimum 300kg aircraft carrier!

From both sides of the road, many small roads and tracks are strung in the mountains. I'll think if I come back here! In Africa Twin, impossible to venture there, but ... one day ... For now I'm just focusing on pothole and road damages...
I arrived at the lodge without a problem, a small road through the forest. Finally I chose the most expensive room because the others are a little too brief for my taste.

The owner, a German I believe, lived here for 30 years and tells me a place for the sunset before going to see the 3000 or 4000 birds out of the cave Tam Lod. They just come out after sunset but before dark. I rush quickly.
On foot, while I hurried on, a group of young Europeans tell me that it is closed and you need a guide! Well here it is, I missed the sunset and birds ...
Indication: The Boss told me out of the cave ... you need a guide to get through the cave but there is a way by the outside! In short, if I had continued, I would have still been able to see my birds! Too bad.

I am overloaded, I have to alight some in Chiang Mai

The evening and the night are very cool, I can say cold!

Carnet de voyages: A l'Ouest du Triangle d'Or

GPS: Cartes des voyages
 
13/11 - Chiang Mai, the northern capital
Weather: perfect blue skies, 25-26deg

Same game, same road! A good road, which still runs as with sharp turns that go up or down to add a little sport. I'm not alone on the road, few cars lurking there. I guess the scenery through the trees, but as soon as a hole would allow me a beautiful picture, a power line ruins everything. Anyway not a lot of pictures!

The valleys widen gradually as I get closer to Chiang Mai. Rice fields become larger with a yellow top and rice ready to be harvested.

A small road should allow me to get to Chiang Mai without taking the motorway for 20km. I missed it. I find myself on a 2x2, fully loaded and cops everywhere. Certainly a personality or a member of the royal family should be in the corner. Driving is a bit sexy... I meet a group of bikers who go to a light off-road touring. I'll have to come back!

I walked without hesitation to GH where I stayed 3 years ago. Full... I landed in the Annah GH. After a quick shower, I go to the Riders Corners to buy GPS map of Laos, and ask if there is a mechanic in Chiang Mai. A strange sound worried. The boss, Phil, sitting chatting with a guy, a German. It turns out that it is mechanic ... look at my wheel, and think that there is nothing serious though. Every time we talk together, they recommendent my 1148 drive to the Laos (land border crossing and ferry south of Pak Beng).

:DD Special mention to Phil, the owner/manager etc of this forum: Thanks a lot Mate for everything (advices, maps, talks, etc...).


By the way Phil, the GPS map of Laos can not be transferred to Mapsource, damn! It is a shitty software :boxing, but the computer screen is still nicer than the screen of my GPS (2.5 x 3.5cm)... especially to plan tracks.:RE

Chiang Mai has changed. All the bars are full or almost young Thai girls (working ...) and white old man. The main street and night market are just a huge tourist trap for a city become rather lame...
I am looking for two things ... a good massage and a pizza. Zeros across the board ... no massage and no good pizza.
My business is ready for early tomorrow morning. I think I can try to join Pak Beng, Laos: reservation is essential before you get there. We'll see tomorrow how fast I go.

Carnet de voyages: Chiang Mai, capitale du Nord

GPS: Cartes des voyages
 
14/11 - To Laos, LA Route 1148!
Weather: Exceptional ... azure sky, 23-25deg

The road through the plains of rice, with sparse traffic. A relatively straight road, through some hills and largely sunny.

As expected, I go through the R1 road for a few kilometers before finding myself back in the middle of the countryside. Noon already, I stop in a large desert restaurant.

I take the road and attack the 1148 road becomes more curvy, hills, then steep slopes and hard cruves!
At a turn, when I stopped to take a picture, I parked as a noob and the bike slipped ... I softened the fall and here it down! In the middle of nowhere, I'll have to put it back up, loaded! It is an Africa twin, I am just 1m75... serious matter! The gravel does not help, but I put it back on its wheels! I'm pretty happy.

It He is 14.00 and still a long way to go. No way to cross the border, I will sleep tonight in Thailand. At the end of the road, I had to miss the small road that goes north, so I do 20km closer to Nam before returning to the road leading to the north and Chaolem Phra Kiat.
Mechanical point: A full tank 17.46l for 5.05l/100km is 346.5km. pretty good comsumption!

1080 road is rather straight, flat, before turning east and find the mountains and slopes around 20%! top of hillsides are out of sight. Several fields: it seems that it is corn ... or maybe high rice. In any case, with the exception of 2-3 overloaded trucks coming from Laos, nobody. I go through a small town and saw a hotel / GH. I could come back if I find anything further. I continue to be closer to the border, but I'm tired. The day was long but beautiful ...

Finally, the border town where I want to sleep is 5km away. Finally the city ... the village: Chaloem Prha Kiat! 200m long, three houses and one shop. I found a resort! 700Bahts for a concrete bungalow, but in the middle of a rice field. It will, though being the only resident of the hotel that night, cheaper rooms should be available. The owner pretended not to understand when I asked him ...

At 18.30, and the dark night 3 shops are closed. nothing to eat tonight.
Back at the hotel, I look at my maps and then plan my trip to Phonsavan and inspects roads that go to the Vietnamese border. It seems to me that there are many paths and river crossings. A walk why not ... but with Africa Twin? Not very confident in the idea, even though I feel very good after the bike already 3000km!

Carnet de voyages: Vers le Laos, LA Route 1148!

GPS: Cartes des voyages
 
You kept your promise and did this ! Thank you.

Ill have a good read of it tonight on the computer (if the internet works here).
 
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