bsacbob
Administrator (Retired)
- Joined
- Jul 1, 2012
- Location
- Chiang Rai
- Bikes
- Honda CRM-AR 250, Honda CRF 250-L, Suzuki V Strom XT 650 Honda XR250 Baja BMW F650GS
The rains have still to make a serious impact on the state of the dirt trails around Northern Thailand so we planned on a nice looping ride out of Chiang Rai in search of some of the sandy sections in case of disaster.
GPX for those wanting at the foot of the post.
Making our way along the 3186, the skies looked promising.
A few dark clouds but we decided to chance it.
First stop Pha Khong cave.
Always a nice camping spot and have a dip in the river.
But not today, the river that runs through the cave almost dry.
Nearby is another deeper cave.
Will have to return one day with a headlamp and explore further.
At Ban Ngiu Thao we make the turn west towards the 118 and the nice shaded dirt section.
Parts are being paved but its still an enjoyable double track you can get a squirt on.
There are a couple of ways over the Doi Luang NP towards the 118 we decided to take the northerly section out and return (hopefully) on the southern section.
Lot's of fruit plantations in this area as we reach the higher elevations.
So nice to have some nice clear views at last, the smoke now a distant memory.
Descending down towards the 118 just outside Wiang Pa Pao.
Briefly on the 118 heading north and turning onto what used to a nice graded dirt trail of the 3053 sadly now paved, but presented with some spectacular views.
Stopping for a drink at Ban Doi Ngam, which i think is a Mosuo village, this lady doing some ritual burning all around the village.
Not seen this before but whatever she was burning quickly dispersed some light ash everywhere, when she finished she went off and did the same again.
Locals are always curious about our GPS.
Heading to the village of Huai Nam Khun, this very Chinese influenced village reminded me of a mini Mae Salong.
From here finally onto the dirt as we pass the terraced fields below.
Some small ruts, i guess they have been having rains already in this region.
Coming into pines trees marking 1000m elevation.
This area is a spiderweb of trails heading in all directions, but we stayed to the trusted route i had done before.
I stopped to take this shot, unaware of the lady below me, she thought we had got lost and signalled the trail top centre of the picture.
Several small villages along here of different minorities.
Des needed gas we dropped down into the Akha village of Huai Sai in search of fuel.
As is usually the case the locals gave us the runaround, no gas to be found here.
Although it did give some interesting picture opportunities.
Lovely old Akha lady, not impressed by our presence.
I guess not much doing in this village we did give them a talking point for the day.
A few km further, a small Lahu village, all the smiling locals out doing another ceremony i had not seen before.
Anxious for us to investigate what they are doing.
My Lahu, not so good but sign language always works.
I had seen these garlands before but never understood the meaning.
The pace of life very slow around here.
From what i could understand it was some kind of food blessing, each structure had candles at its base and the head man prayed before it, on which was food for the people. Maybe some sort of good luck ceremony for a good rainy season and rice crops for the villagers.
As we turned away from the village the clouds grew more threatening.
It looked like we are heading to a storm, fingers crossed the trail would lead us away.
Not looking so good.
Prepare to get wet, very wet.
The storm hit but we pressed on, luckily the sandy rocky terrain saved the day, if this had been clay it would have been a long wet night.
Des still getting a grip with his Mitas tyres.
Like drowned rats we came across another Lahu village, and the same ceremony taking place.
Having both been anointed with lucky string, i reciprocated, much to the interest of the locals.
They offered us food which we politely declined and asked for a gas pump.
This was a pretty large village with some paved roads within it.
But more importantly a gas drum.
Not so friendly in this village, a total contrast to the early stopover.
Gassed up and good to go.
Sun breaking out we hoped to be drying off, it was pretty cold up here.
Soon onto the black stuff and the 1150.
A quick lunch stop at our favourite watering hole
Then back onto the trail heading towards Phan in an easterly direction.
After an exchange of smiles, the ranger opened the barrier to allow us through.
Normally this is the fun part riding through the stream, today almost dry.
This trail similar to the one we had done this morning, partly paved now, but prone to landslides in the thick of the rains.
This still unfinished wat marks the halfway point before we drop down once again to Ban Ngiu Thao
So it was a good day, but like so often memories of fantastic dirts trails, now sadly gone, but this area offers som much, maybe enough time to get out once more and explore a little further.
GPX viewer
GPX for those wanting at the foot of the post.
Making our way along the 3186, the skies looked promising.
A few dark clouds but we decided to chance it.
First stop Pha Khong cave.
Always a nice camping spot and have a dip in the river.
But not today, the river that runs through the cave almost dry.
Nearby is another deeper cave.
Will have to return one day with a headlamp and explore further.
At Ban Ngiu Thao we make the turn west towards the 118 and the nice shaded dirt section.
Parts are being paved but its still an enjoyable double track you can get a squirt on.
There are a couple of ways over the Doi Luang NP towards the 118 we decided to take the northerly section out and return (hopefully) on the southern section.
Lot's of fruit plantations in this area as we reach the higher elevations.
So nice to have some nice clear views at last, the smoke now a distant memory.
Descending down towards the 118 just outside Wiang Pa Pao.
Briefly on the 118 heading north and turning onto what used to a nice graded dirt trail of the 3053 sadly now paved, but presented with some spectacular views.
Stopping for a drink at Ban Doi Ngam, which i think is a Mosuo village, this lady doing some ritual burning all around the village.
Not seen this before but whatever she was burning quickly dispersed some light ash everywhere, when she finished she went off and did the same again.
Locals are always curious about our GPS.
Heading to the village of Huai Nam Khun, this very Chinese influenced village reminded me of a mini Mae Salong.
From here finally onto the dirt as we pass the terraced fields below.
Some small ruts, i guess they have been having rains already in this region.
Coming into pines trees marking 1000m elevation.
This area is a spiderweb of trails heading in all directions, but we stayed to the trusted route i had done before.
I stopped to take this shot, unaware of the lady below me, she thought we had got lost and signalled the trail top centre of the picture.
Several small villages along here of different minorities.
Des needed gas we dropped down into the Akha village of Huai Sai in search of fuel.
As is usually the case the locals gave us the runaround, no gas to be found here.
Although it did give some interesting picture opportunities.
Lovely old Akha lady, not impressed by our presence.
I guess not much doing in this village we did give them a talking point for the day.
A few km further, a small Lahu village, all the smiling locals out doing another ceremony i had not seen before.
Anxious for us to investigate what they are doing.
My Lahu, not so good but sign language always works.
I had seen these garlands before but never understood the meaning.
The pace of life very slow around here.
From what i could understand it was some kind of food blessing, each structure had candles at its base and the head man prayed before it, on which was food for the people. Maybe some sort of good luck ceremony for a good rainy season and rice crops for the villagers.
As we turned away from the village the clouds grew more threatening.
It looked like we are heading to a storm, fingers crossed the trail would lead us away.
Not looking so good.
Prepare to get wet, very wet.
The storm hit but we pressed on, luckily the sandy rocky terrain saved the day, if this had been clay it would have been a long wet night.
Des still getting a grip with his Mitas tyres.
Like drowned rats we came across another Lahu village, and the same ceremony taking place.
Having both been anointed with lucky string, i reciprocated, much to the interest of the locals.
They offered us food which we politely declined and asked for a gas pump.
This was a pretty large village with some paved roads within it.
But more importantly a gas drum.
Not so friendly in this village, a total contrast to the early stopover.
Gassed up and good to go.
Sun breaking out we hoped to be drying off, it was pretty cold up here.
Soon onto the black stuff and the 1150.
A quick lunch stop at our favourite watering hole
Then back onto the trail heading towards Phan in an easterly direction.
After an exchange of smiles, the ranger opened the barrier to allow us through.
Normally this is the fun part riding through the stream, today almost dry.
This trail similar to the one we had done this morning, partly paved now, but prone to landslides in the thick of the rains.
This still unfinished wat marks the halfway point before we drop down once again to Ban Ngiu Thao
So it was a good day, but like so often memories of fantastic dirts trails, now sadly gone, but this area offers som much, maybe enough time to get out once more and explore a little further.
GPX viewer
