Myanmar - 6 Day self guided motorcycle tour of Lashio Road

KTMphil

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Joined
Jan 11, 2011
Location
Chiang Mai, Thailand
Bikes
2007 KTM 990 Adventure Suzuki DRZ 400
Some route ideas from Zach out of Mandalay

"This is a rough guide of a trip up into Shan State from Mandalay. 6 days is about the minimum time I would like to take on a trip like this. The Mandalay Lashio Road is in very good shape for Myanmar so you can make good time. The trails north of Kyaukme are very bad and the road to Namhsan is in fair condition.
You are basically just allowed to go up to back on the Mandalay Lashio Road but you can take a few detours.
Some off limit areas are:
North and East of Lashio
Highway 43 and 44
Highway 312 (your allowed to go about 30 miles on this road before you'll be turned around)
The entire area around Mogkok
You can hire a guide around Kyaukme, at the A Yone Oo Hotel, who can take you to the villages north of Kyaukme. You can also hire a guide through any guesthouse for tours around Hsipaw on your bike.





A guide is not necessary in Pyin Oo Lwin. In Kyaukme they have a list
of guides you can ride with at the A Yone Oo Guesthouse. They all run
motorbike tours(they'll ride a 125cc step through) up into the
villages north of kyaukme. They can even arrange for you to stay in a
villagers house for the night.
When I was there, the road to Namhsan was closed due to gun battles
between rebels and the army but it may open up by the time you
arrive..........then again, maybe not.
The Kyaukme guides can ride with you to Namhsan or you can arrange
another guide through the only Namhsan guesthouse...or even Hsipaw(but
this place is a little too touristy now)
here is my map of my trip into shan state."










View attachment 9761
 
From Zach

Sliding around on the back roads and donkey trails of northern Shan State, Myanmar
I did a slow paced 5 day 737km trip up into Shan State from Pyin oo Lwin last week on my Jialing 150 and thought I'd share some of my pics and info on here. I didn't write a ride report on here before so I hope it is somewhat interesting.
Day 1: Pyin Oo Lwin to Kyaukme
I got a late start, 1pm, because I was in Pyin Oo Lwin all morning for the second anniversary of my wife's Grandfather's death.
They had a typical Shan breakfast and lunch and we all sat around and talked. A group of monks came and gave a speech and then that was it.
I stopped at a Peik Chin Myaing cave, Gokteik Gorge and many times along the road to take pics. I made it to Kyaukme at 5pm
Day%25201%2520Farm.jpg

leaving the house
Day%25201%2520Gokteik%2520Gorge%25202.jpg

Waiting for the truck to navigate the switchback at Gokteik Gorge
Day%25201%2520Billboard.jpg

literal translation: "Don't be the cause of accidents. The people who ride/drive better than you are in the cemetery"

Day%25201%2520Roadside%2520View.jpg

view past Gokteik
Day%25201%2520Lashio%2520Road.JPG

Well maintained Mandalay Lashio Road

Day 2: around Kyaukme and hotel in Hsipaw
The guide I wanted to hire had English teaching responsibilities to take care of so he decided to take some of his students
up into the mountains to show me around and have his students practice English to boot.
I rode with the students for about 2 hours, with plenty of stops, on the road to Mogok
until the guide showed me the dirt roads I could take to get back to kyaukme. With the guides hand drawn map, I split with the group and headed off solo onto the mountain trails.After some scary and fun times slipping and sliding on
the trails I made it back to Kyaukme at 4pm for lunch/dinner and into Hsipaw at 6pm to check into my hotel.
Day%25202%2520Escorts.jpg

I've been escorted by police before in Myanmar but never a group of teenage students.
Day%25202%2520Goodbye.jpg

The guide, Joy, and his students before we parted ways. He refused payment because he wasn't able to take me on the back roads with the students.
Day%25202%2520Mud.jpg


Day%25202%2520Taking%2520a%2520Rest.jpg

this road looked nice so I just sped up it. I didn't realize it was very slippery packed clay with moss. I even fell down when I tried to pick the bike up. You can also see my glasses at the bottom left, I forgot to pick those up.
Day%25202%2520Landslide%2520Trail.jpg

Narrow path partially blocked by small landslide
Day%25202%2520Donkey%2520Trail.jpg

Make way for Donkeys, The bushes are tea plants.
Day%25202%2520Stream.jpg

Stream crossing
Day%25202%2520Fake%2520Yamaha%2520DT.jpg

When I was back in Kyaukme to pick up my bags and head off to Hsipaw.I saw this Chinese bike dressed up like a Yamaha DT.

Day 3 Hsipaw to Namhsan
The whole reason for my trip was to go to Namhsam so nothing was going to stop me. I set off in the pouring
rain and drove north
until the junction town of Panglong where I head west to Namhsan. It was a very wet and cloudy ride but probably
one of the most beautiful rides I have ever taken in Myanmar. After arriving in Namhsan I just explored on foot.
Day%25203%2520Hsipaw%2520Workshop.jpg

Got my bike bent back into shape and chain tightened in Hsipaw before leaving town.
Day%25203%2520Muddy%2520Road.jpg

Road north of Hsipaw to Panglong
Day%25203%2520Bamboo%2520Boys.jpg

Bamboo harvesters
Day%25203%2520Second%2520Bridge%2520over%2520Doat%2520Hta%2520Waddy.jpg

Bridge on road to Namhsan
Day%25203%2520Road%2520to%2520Namhsan.jpg


Day%25203%2520Namhsan.jpg

Namhsan Town is basically one street along a ridge lined with houses on either side. It goes on like this for a few miles
Day%25203%2520Namhsan%2520Tea%2520Workers.jpg

Tea is the major industry in Namhsan
Day%25203%2520Namhsan%2520Cloud%2520Temple.jpg

If I had a better camera, this photo would have been awesome. Then again, if I had a nicer camera it probably would have broken in the fall on day 2.

Day 4: Namhsan to Lashio
Unfortunately there are soldiers everywhere and one of the policemen told me i would be unable to take the road
to Kyaukme from Namhsan because of some little war that was going on in the area. I saw soldiers everywhere
(none of them let me take a picture) in town and on the roads around town so I reluctantly went back
on the road I came in on. I was able to make a short detour to Ruby Mountain on my way back. Instead of going back to Hsipaw I turned north, then west, to take the back road into Lashio, one of my favorite cities in Myanmar.
I pushed the bike to my hotel, after I got it washed and it failed to start,and went into the room for a hot shower. No hot shower and I realized I was running a fever. By the end of the shower I knew I was getting quite sick.Didn't sight see at all, went to bed at 8pm.
Day%25204%2520Namhsan%2520Guest%2520House.jpg

Namhsan Hotel.
Day%25204%2520Ruby%2520Mountain%2520Road.jpg

road to ruby mountain.
Day%25204%2520Ruby%2520Mountain%2520Paya.jpg

Pagoda at the top of Ruby Mountain. Over 1800m up!
Day%25204%2520View%2520of%2520Road%2520to%2520Namhsan.jpg

Namhsan road view from Ruby Mountain road
Day%25204%2520Mansan-Lashio%2520Road.jpg

The back road to Lashio has so many blind curves like this which can limit your speed.
Day%25204%2520Lashio%2520Dump.jpg

Dump outside Lashio. This thing burns 24-7.365.
Day%25204%2520Downtown%2520Lashio.jpg

Lashio City.

Day 5 Lashio to Pyin Oo Lwin (the zombie-ride)
I could barely drag myself from bed to check out and leave the hotel.I woke up in the middle of the night in a pool of sweat, I think the hotel must have thought I wet the bed it was so wet even after I left.
Unlike the bed, the bike dried out well overnight and started without issue. The ride back felt more like a mission than a nice cruise like I originally intended. I was squinting a lot because I was sensitive to the light, I was shivering and my whole body was in pain. I stopped to take a few photos, eat some roadside pineapple and fill up with gas but that was it. About 230km after leaving Lashio, I arrived home at 3:30pm and stayed in bed the rest of the day where my wife could take care of me. I rode the egg truck into Mandalay the next day. I had a fever of 103 for about 3 days. I am glad to be over that and I am looking forward to the next time I can go back up into Shan State.
Day%25205%2520Lashio%2520Paya.jpg

Blurry photo lwhile leaving Lashio and trying to get home ASAP.
Day%25205%2520Gokteik%2520Gorge%2520West%2520Side%2520View.jpg


Gokteik Gorge view on the way back.
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Train crossing Gokteik Viaduct (Goteik Viaduct) which is over 100 years old!



Day%25206%2520View%2520Toward%2520Mandalay%2520from%2520Egg%2520Truck.jpg

Photo from the egg truck looking down toward Mandalay the day after I arrived home. I was too sick to drive back so I left the bike at our farm.
 
Some more photos from Zach


Some more pics
Day%25203%2520Foggy%2520Banyan.jpg

Fog near Namhsan
Day%25202%2520Wrong%2520Turn.jpg

Wrong Turn. This trail led to a rock face that could only be done on foot so I had to push the bike backward down the trail until there was room to turn around.
Day%25203%2520Sharing%2520Gas.jpg

Sharing some gas. I think this guy ingested half of the 200ml, or so, of gas while siphoning it with a pump hose.
 
Phil, Thanks for putting these pics up. I was going to do it now after sending you another lengthy email about your upcoming trip. Glad I saw it now so we don't have a double post.
I plan to go out around mandalay next weekend so I'll try and get some more good pics up for people who want to ride around here
Thanks for all the interest guys!
 
Very interesting Zach, gives me ideas.
BTW, isn't a sudden fever something to take very seriously in case it's malaria?
Tim.
Gnasher, You are right.
when I went back to mandalay I went to my doc and he gave me a bunch of antibiotics to take for a week but when i went off them I got sick again . he tested me for malaria which came up negative. but they put me back on antibiotics and malaria meds just in case the test didn't catch it. they said I either had malaria or gastroenteritis
A week later and I come down with a lung infection. Just getting over that one now and if I get sick again I think I may have to make a trip over to Thailand
Lesson? DOn't get sick in Myanmar. The hospitals don't have the equipment to fully test or diagnose a medical problem. if you break a leg or something they can fix it but if anything serious happens here they just don't have the resources to give you proper care. Someone could make a killing (no pun intended) over here if they opened an internationally accredited hospital. So many of the burmese and chinese rich people fly to bangkok or singapore for medical treatment instead of getting it here.
 
They're not much better here. After suffering with headache and fatigue all 'summer' and four visits and three doctors later I had to research the net and tell them it was most likely a sinus infection and a short term of antibiotics won't do the job. I got month of antibiotics and it seems to be working. Interesting you say your symptoms returned, mignt need a longer treatment to really clear out the bugs as well.
All the best, Tim.
 
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