After a couple of weeks riding from London, through Europe, Ukraine, Russia, and Kazakhstan I arrived at the Chinese border at Korghas on June 27th, 2011.
I'm genuinely feeling sad to leave Kazakhstan this morning but equally excited about crossing into China.
The riding, the poeople, the country, the deserts, even the big bad scary roads have been one hell of an experience in Kazakhstan and I want to come back.
But for now I'm concentrating on China. I'm nervous about the border crossing hoping that all my paperowork for KZ is in order so I can leave without a problem and likewise that China is all OK.
I needn't have worried. The Kazakh border guards are all very friendly and helpful. I'm the first to arrive at the gate so end up chatting with the local Lieutenant who speaks some English. Then a quick look at my passport and away I go into KZ customs to clear the bike. All together it look about half an hour to complete the paperwork and formalities with the bike KZ side and I roll on the China.
I'm ordered by some very polite China border guards to park up in front of the immigration hall. A lady immigration officer comes out and with a big smile and handshake and welcomes me to China.
I'm being treated like royalty. My guide Mr. Fan (aka Frank) is with me and we get pushed to the front of every queue (much to the annoyance of everyone else trying to cross the border). That process takes about and hour then the bike is x-rayed, customs agent sorts the paperwork then one final customs search and we're through. The last customs officer looked at my passport and asks if I was really born in 1962. Yes, I reply. He puts his thumbs up and Mr Fan explains that he thought there was a mistake as I look so young! I like China already.
Then I'm in China! On a Britsih motorcycle! I can't stop grinning!
We head into Khorgas for the rest of the day as we need to pick up my temporary import licence, so we have some lunch, chat over tea before chcking in to a local hotel for a siesta. Dinner and an early night. Tomorrow Yining for my driving licence and Chinese number plate.
Frank also has a driver, Mr. Sh. Mr. Sh is a top bloke, Sh means stone in Chinese.
Next morning we have the import licence for the Tiger so we head off early to Yining to sort out my chinese driving licence and number plate.
Mr. Sh's sat nav is playing up so it takes a while to find the right police station. The driving in the town's is the worst I've ever known. You need eyes every where. There's almost no time at all to check out the local laydees! Almost. They're gorgeous.
After a couple of hours we find the first of two police stations. The boss and his right hand lady both come out to say hello and look at the bike.
Then we're off to the equivalent of the DVLA. After a couple of hours I have my Chinese licence. I'm thrilled skinny!
Then disaster. The computer system crashes as my number plate was being processed, so we adjourn for lunch to a roadside cafe for tea and the best noodles I've ever had and then back to the station at 4 to see what the latest is. Still no computer so instead Frank arranges for us to take a letter from the boss explaining that the procedure could not be completed due to computer error but all is OK, so hopefully I won't get arrested. I'm a little disappointed as I was planning this entire cockney ryhming slag gag about my old china plate so I can't do that now.
So, a lot later than planned we head off towards the mountains where we will be camping at lake Sayram Hu, which Frank tells me is stunning. But not before another minor hitch and argument.
I have to fill up with fuel before we leave. At the next petrol station I am told that motorcycles cannot fill up at the pumps because the engines will make the petrol explode. You are supposed to wait by the edge of the station and someone brings 2 litres at a time in a tin kettle. There are blokes everywhere with fags on the go!
I lost my temper a little and told them to put the f'ing fuel in the f'ing tank or I'm going to f'off somehere else. After a bit of negotiation they agreed and filled me up at the pump. Now we have a routine whereby Mr. Sh and Frank go into each petrol station first and explain that the Tiger is a special British bike that will not explode at the pumps. This seems to work.
So, fully fuelled we head to the hills.
The road to the lake is both dangerous and stunning. As soon as I can get video uploaded I'll post here so you can see for yourself.
And the lake it simply stunning. Frank tells me it is a plateau lake. Surrounded by snow capped mountains and pine forests, it's an impressive sight. Looks like You Tube is blocked from here so no video for now.
By christ it was cold last night. And my tent leaks like a sieve in a rain storm so will be looking for a Chinese replacement.
But what a way to wake up seeing the sun rise over the lake!
We're heading off at 7:30 to ride 700kms to Turpan. Turpan is also known as Fire City by the Chinese as it's the hottest place in China. Mr Sh tells me he was there last week and it hot 55 deg c! But for now I'm wrapped up in my warmest bike kit with the heated grips on as the lake is seriously cold and we're at 3,500m altitude as well.
Motorcycles are banned from using the motorways in China except for this part of the world. Which is music to my ears. The road surface is like silk (well we are on the Silk Route after all). Just a joy after the battering the Tiger and I took from the Kazakhstan roads.
So we're on the G30 tiwards Turpan and the weather soon warms up and we slip from mountains to proper Gobi desert. The express highway is a lovely curvy ride, until about 3 hours from Turpan. Then it starts to get really hot. The road starts to wind through hillsides that are very biblical looking. I fully expect to see a sign saying Noah's Boat Yard round every corner, or Moses bounding down a valley shouting "Oi lads, take a look at these scrolls …"
Then we're into the desert floor. Just rocks and stones and unvelieveably hot. As much as I'm enjoring the ride I'm glad to hit town.
Turpan's small by Chinese standards. I like the place. The hotel is great. A shower that works, hot water on demand, internet and a glass wall between the bathroom and the bedroom so presumably you can watch your loved one take a dump before a night of high passion. How romantic.
I'm starving as is Mr. Sh and Frank so we head out to the local square for mutton kebbabs, little pieces of mutton and mutton fat dipped in spices and chuecked on a pavement barbecue plus meat dumplings in a soup – washed down with some local beers and liquors. Best food ever.
Having a great time with Frank and Mr. Sh. Top blokes.
Song of the day – Mowin' Down The Roses – Jamey Johnson – coz it's a bloody funny song and I can fully identify with it the story having done something very similar myself a few years back.
I'm staying two nights in Turpan as Frank has organised a day's sight seeing.
First up we vist the Karze Aquafier Museum dedicated to the hand dug underground rivers built over 1500 years ago to capture water from rainfall and snow melt and channel it to the city where the same system is used to help grow grapes and cotton. Grape Valley produces the bulk of China's raisins, so next time you pick up a packet for your Xmas puddind down Tesco's see if it came from Turpan before you buy.
Later that day we visit Jiaohe Ancient City first settled 200 BC. I'll post the videos as soon as YT is unblocked.
That evening we head back to the main square in Turpan for more mutton kebabs.
The local square has a huge fountain with Vegas style lighting that synchs with music so we kick back, eat, drink and make merry.
Bit of a strange day today. It's two years since my dad passed away and also the 90th anniversary of the founding of the Chinese Communist party. Been thinking a lot about him on today's ride (my dad, not Chairman Mao).
The original plan was to hammer down the highway to Hami before sunsrise, but we got an earlky start and made Hami by earlt afternoon, so on Frank's advice we pushed on to Dun Huang on the basis that there was more to see there than Hami so total push today was abou 900kms of desert riad in about 13 hours ..knackered, but in a good way.
Mr. Sh warned me that there would be about 130 kms of bad road, and he wasn't wrong.
The dust was like talcum powder and was getting into everything; the road such as it was, was 2 foot deep in sandy dusty talcum powder stuff that was being stirred up by hundreds of trucks coming at me from all directions. So no option but the open up the Tiger and cane it with a Hail Mary and hope for the best and left Mr. Sh and Frank behind. Scary as f**k but the only option was to dawdle, get the front wheel stuck in the sandy dusty stuff and end up on the deck getting run over by a big Chinese truck.
We eventually got to Dun Huang around 11 and found a local place for more great food and a cold beer or 12
Frankie wasn't happy with the hotel so we moved up the street to a new one called Guanyuan. Way better.
Mogao Caves were carved out of the rock around 1500 years ago by early Buddhist monks. The caves include two huge Buddah Carvings. Very impressive.
Next up was the Cresecent Lake on the edge of the desert sand dunes which is a spring that popped up in the middle of the dunes and now attracts thousands of visitors every week.
I was a bit shocked at the entrance fees for both. On a par with UK prices but definitey worth a visit.
That evening was taken up with a Mongolian hot pot which is a big pot of boiling water on a gas ring, plates of different fish and meat pieces (including tripe), which you chuck in the pot, boil up and then mix in with different pastes and spices. Washed down with beer and Mr. Sh's 58% Chinese vodka. Lethal.
We finished the evening off with a proper massage down the road from the hotel. And before you say anything it was a proper massage, head to toe and no happy ending. Really needed it after the battering I've taken over the last few weeks.
Jiquan and The Great Wall of China 3rd July 2011
Leaving Dun Huang on fabulously flat and smooth road snaking through the desert towards Jiquan to visit the west end pass or gate of the Great Wall Of China.
I have been looking forward to this for years as the only other time I was in China was in 1999 working on a sports event in Tianjin. I was working stupid hours every day for the entire time so when the chance came up to have a day off and go the see the wall, what did I do? Overslept and missed the bus! So now I have another chance and grabbing this one!
The roads are great. Motorway all the way (still getting away with riding the bike on the highways and expressways).
Arriving at the West Gate at about 3, I dump the bike and head up the hill just in time to see a Kung Fu display depicting battles between General Gwan Yu's troops taking on the Mongols.
I'm told every city in China has a General Gwan Ju temple as he was the ultimate kick ass Chinese soldier and sorted out all the potential invaders.
The West Gate and the wall do not disappoint. The general's quarters are well worth a visit, complete with waxworks characters (I'm told they are made by Madame Tussauds).
After spending a couple of hours wandering around the gate, we're off to our next stop. Camping at the foot of the Great Wall!
Chairman Mao once said that you could not be a hero until you have walked the wall so I'm looking to get some hero points pretty soon.
We pitch camp an hour later, and I go for a walk up the hill along the wall. Not the best idea in bike kit!
A bunch of young Chinese tourists turn up at our camp site later that evening facinated by the bike. They all want photos of me adn the bike.
Picnic dinner and drink too much scotch! Then the skies opened and it hammered down all night.
Chinese Name and English Name 6th July 2011
Tonight over dinner and a lot of beer and apricot spirit, Mr. Sh and I have given eachother an English and Chinese name.
From now on Mr. Sh will adopt the English name Geordie on the basis that he is from the North East, is hard as nails, loves a laugh, is an honest, hard working fella and knows how to party.
He has given me the name Sheung Tchien which means Forward and was the name of one of Mao's main generals during the fight against Chiang Kai-shek. He thinks that I'm the sort of person who always goes forward and nevr back. He's not far wrong. I'm genuinely honoured. I feel a new tattoo coming on.
Quick Update From Xian 7th July 2011
Just a quick update. Am currently in Xian which is one hell of a city. Arrived in the dark late last night and managed to negotiate the traffic – frightening.
Spent today sight seeing including Bampo village – 5,000 year old archaeological site on the edge of the city, and the Cotta Warriors.
The pace has been relentless and been trying to cram in as much as possible so not had much time to update this blog and get new pics up but will "backfill" as soon as I get a few hours and a decent internet connection.
Just spent a couple of hours with Mr. Sh and Frank figuring out the best route south. The weather is still bad further south and floods, landslides and road washouts are still happening so it may mean either taking a big detour or possibly having to strap the Tiger to the back of Mr. Sh's pick up and taking the Expressway (I've been officially kicked off the Expressways after our little scam was discovered – more about that later) until we get to Kunming. We're looking at the CCTV news now.
Xian to Guangyuan, Sichuan Province 8th July 2011
We've come up with a cunning plan that will help us avoid any floods or landslides. I won't go into detail at this moment in time as I don't want to drop the lads in the doodoo if you catch my drift but it will allow me to keep a decent speed up for the next few days.
After a quick wash down, chain adjustment and chain lube, we run for the hills. The weather is superb, hot and sunny. Not what I'd expected. The 4 or 5 days before we arrived in Xian were awful. Rained solidly pretty much every day and managed to crash the bike in a tunnel on a patch of mud mixed with diesel.
But it's different now. And the mountains that separate Xian from Sechuan province are just breathtaking. I really am struggling to find words to describe how beautiful this is. It's the China that I've built up in my mind's eye over the years. Pointed, jagged peaks with rivers flowing down the valleys into rice paddies and orchards. Even if I had the wherewithall to film all this in 360/3D/HD/Widescreen it still wouldn't do it justice, so I tell you, if you've ever fancied doing this kind of motorcycle trip, just do it. Sell the kids, rent out grandma, get a bike and a visa and go!
Li Bai, China's most famous poet once wrote about the route from Xian to Sichuan
"It is more difficult to reach Sichuan than it is to touch the sky"
Maybe … but it's fun trying!
Guanyuan to Deyang 9th July 2011
I had to laugh this morning. As we're were leaving the hotel, 2 young lads started kocking seven shades of s..t out of eachother on the pavement. It went on for about 2 minutes by which time one was getting a proper battering from the other. A police car pulled up with 6 coppers and soldiers in it. They started shouting at the two lads which made no difference so they let rip with the siren. The two lads suddenly stood to attention, straightened their shirts and acted as though nothing had happened.
Riding through the mountains known as the 27 Peaks was stunning and a great ride.
We stopped off at a defensive gate halfway up to find that there is a monument to my new Chinese namesake, Marshall Shiung Tchien.
Later that day we take in the Sanxingdui Bronze Relics – more than 5,000 years old. The two baffling things about these relics is the quality of the casting and why do the figures depicted have big noses making them all look more modern. I guess we'll never know.
Panda Research and Breeding Base in Chengdu 10th July 2011
Took the short route from Guanyuan towards Chengdu which is only an hour down the road, stopping off at the Panda Research and Breeding Base near Chengdu. Proper title Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding.
It's great to see that so much is being done to protect these animals. They all seem very happy in their surroundings. The park itself is well organised and well run. Once inside it's hard to believe you are so close to a major city like Chengdu.
Sichuan Food 11th July 2011
The food all the way down through China has been great, but now that we're in Sichuan, I'm really loving it.
Last night we went into downtown Chengdu to the old part of town which has been renovated and is a great place to spend a few hours just hanging out … BUT ..,. the restaurants there, lovely as they are, charge London prices. One plate of food is £30! So we beat a hasty retreat to our usual type of establishment where the 3 of us eat very well for about £20 including a good few beers.
Geordie Sh always orders the food, and the man knows his stuff, last night was no exception. Outstanding food, fresh ingredients all washed down with some cold Tsingtao or Harbin (Geordie's home town brew).
Chinese takeaway in SW15 will never be the same after this trip.
World's Largest Buddha, Leshan 11th July 2011
Since the Taliban destroyed the Buddha carvings in Afganistan, the giant Buddha at Leshan has taken the title of world's largest Buddha.
I took a boat trip rather to look at it rather than climb to the top as I figured I'd get a better feel for the scale of the giant Buddha and I wasn't wrong, it's truly awe inspiring! I've just posted some pictures in the gallery.
I'm now in the Emei Moutains, the spiritual home of Buddhism in China visiting the temples. More tomorrow.
Mount Emei 12th July 2011
Up early this morning to ride up to the summit of Mount Emei to see the temples and the Golden Buddha.
Trekking up to the lowest temple on Mount Emei. The water in the stream is bright blue even though the sun's not out, so I guess it's due to some mineral. No one cantell me
It's raining hard-ish and the summit is wrapped in cloud but I'm not bothered. The road is spectacular again, following a mountain stream up the valley to the first stop off point at temples mid way up the mountain. And it's a bit of a trek in soaking wet riding kit, but well worth the sweat.
On the way back down I lost Mad Frankie Fan (as he has become known this week) for a about 10 minutes only to be acosted by some very young Chinese girls all wanting a picture with me … I'm old enough to be their grandad, never mind father. How come this never happened when I was a teenager?
Then further up the mountain towards the Golden Buddha and Golden Temple. A ride, short trek and a cable car ride to get there. The place is mobbed mainly with Chinese tourists but also dozens of old ladies on a pilgrimage who all out me to shame buy tackling the thousands of stone steps with ease while my knees and thighs are screaming "enough!".
There wasn't a great deal to see at the summit as the rain cloud had completely engulfed the Buddha and temples but there's something very special about this place.
While I was there I had a word with the big fella to see if he coould fix us up with 3 lovely young ladies to join us for dinner. We'll see what happens.
Leshan to Zhao Tong 13th July 2011
What a day!
Left Emei Mountain to head back to Leshan to pick up the main road towards Kunming stopping off on route for the night.
All started well enough, if a little damp – all my clothes are wet as it has been raining non stop for days and it's so humid, trying to get anything dry is impossible. It's definitely the rainy season. The Sichuan mountains were as stunning as ever. The towns and villages are a little scruffy and dirty; it doesn't look like the new market economy has reached here yet.
Then we find that the main road is closed. No reason is given, but judging from the heavy earth moving gear that's in the area there's been a big land slide. So we get shunted onto Chinese B roads. The sat nav and route maps are no use, so we rely purely on local directions. I spend the next 4 hours out of the saddle and on the pegs as we barrell along dirt roads through the mountains. The surfaces are unreal.
Old cobbles – covered in mud and gravel
Rock – covered in mud and gravel
Mud – covered in mud and gravel
A big ravine on my left and a solid red rock wall on my right. Scarey but loads of fun.
The mud is bright pink! I guess as a result of the red rock it's been ground from … and it's slippery as snot on a door knob (my thanks to Andy Lessels for that delightful analogy)
We finally hooked up with the express highway and I pulled my usual stunt to get past the barriers so the last two hours were a little more sensible.
Just ate a huge Chinese Hot Pot with the lads, washed down with a few beers and dog penis vodka (seriously). Off to bed. Knackered. Knees are shot after today.
Nice flat road tomorrow …. I hope
Zhao Tong to Kunming 14th July 2011
After washing off the half inch of pink mud off the bike I head for Kunming.
Blagged my way onto the Express Highway again so the road is smooth, fast and winds it's way thropugh more fabulous scenery. It's still cloudy but it's cool and dry, so I'm a happy bunny. My knees and arse are even happier.
On the subject of my arse (please note the correct English spelling), several people seems to be interested in the state of it. So, for my sis, uncle Dai, my brother and Peter, Barb and Marj (the 3 lovely New Yorkers I met at the Terra Cota Warriors), my arse is in fine fettle, thank you for asking
Arrive in Kunming early evening and dine on more great food before bed. Day off tomorrow so plan on going for a wander round Kunming.
Hanging out in Kunming 15th July 2011
A lie in this morning. Luxury. My room is on the 20th floor of a very strange hotel. Great views of the city, but the bathroom lights don't work and the bog's blocked! Sod it, I'm off into town.
Mad Frankie Fan decides we need to climb yet another mountain first to see another temple. This time though it is Taoist not Buddist.
Just what my knees and thighs need after the last too days, but I'm happy to go with the flow and the park that leads up to the temple is lovely and quiet so a nice easy morning.
Kunming is huge and expanding at a rate of knots. It's noisy, polluted and the traffic is mental but I like the place.
I spend the afternoon wandering round the shops with Frankie (all the big brands are here including B and Q!). Frankie fancies KFC for lunch so to my eternal shame I agree. I've counted at least 6 KFC outlets and they are all mobbed. Bloody shame. Globalisation! No one is immune to it.
Later we collect Geordie Sh and head for dinner. We find a restuarant that is run by people from Geordie's home town in NE China, a place called Harbin so we dine on Harbin specialities including a type of black pudding and a pork and cabbage stew that reminds me a lot if good old Irish boiled beef and cabbage. Great grub.
Kunming to Pu'er 16th July 2011
Yunnan Province seems to be a lost more laid back then elesewehere in China. I blagged my way on to the Express Highway again and no one seems bothered. I even got a tug from the old bill an hour from Pu'er and all he was really interested in was checking to see my paperwork was in order.
I crossed the Tropic of Cancer half way to Pu'er and suddenly the weather and scenery has become much more tropical … including the intense rain showers.
I also crossed what claims to be the world's highest bridge. Will find out more later. In the meantime here's a picture.
Mohan, Boten, Chiang Khan, Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai 19th July 2011
Am currently sitting with an ice cold beer and steak for lunch at Rider's Corner in Chiang Mai run by Phil and his wife. Great food, great company, cold beer, great music, comfortable room, bike mechanic, Triumph dealer and service centre next door. What more could I need? Even if you're not a biker come and stay here next time you're in Chiang Mai. Love it. And Journey on the juke box!
Here's the story of the last few days …
Got to the China/Laos border at Mohan without any problem. Mostly express highway all the way – getting shouted at by the toll gate guards everytime, but I just lift the front of my helmet so they can see I'm just an idiot tourist, I grin like a mad fool and shout "lovely to meet you too" – that seems to work most of the time. On the odd occasion it doesn't work, I load the bike onto the back of a pick up, hide in the back then a mile down the road, drop it off the back and ride on. Nice.
So, Mohan. Stange new town that looks like it was all built a week last wednesday. Everything is wet so I do my best to dry everything out to no avail. It's about 90% humidity so no chance.
A final dinner with Mad Frankie Fan and Geordie Sh, more donkey cock vodka, beer and apricot vodka.
Next morning (July 18th) breakfast is very subdued. I'm really feeling sad about leaving China and parting company with "the lads". We've had a real laugh, even on the days that were crap, we still ended up in a restuarant somewhere eating drinking and laughing. Good times.
The weather is foul again so I decide to take the advice I've been given and take the short route through Laos as I'm told some bridges and roads have been washed away in floods, so Vientienane will have to wait until next year. It's a shame as Laos is beautiful. I follow route 3 and 3A. The road is good (some rough patches), and the rain stops to reveal the scenery. Stunning.
A few hours later I'm at the border crossing over the Mekong which is a rusty barge/ferry full of trucks and me and the Tiger. Like a berk I managed to drop the bike on a slippery hill leading to the ferry slip road. Interestingly none of the dozens of westerners came to help, only the locals. Had a long chat to a Chinese trucker who spoke good English. He'd seen me about 200kms before the China/Laos border taking a pee!
Only takes an hour to check out from Laos and to enter Thailand at Chiang Khong. As always the customs and immigration people are very friendly and helpful.
And in no time I'm heading for my first overnight stop in Thailand. The Triumph Tiger's loving these roads and so am I. It's weird, I've only been to Thailand once before on a two week holiday and very nearly stayed. This time it feels a little like I'm coming home. Odd?
On the advice of Steve who lives in Pattaya I headed for The Red Rose Hotel in Chiang Rai. This place has to be seen to believed, it's Disneyland on drugs! I get the Star Wars suite and it is just like spending a night on a space ship! All for £10/night.
Regular readers will alreadt know, I love my food, and I love Thai food, so I head straight from the Death Star to a local restaurant for Tom Kar Kai soup, seafish and fried rice and half a dozen Singhas. Song of the day – If God Was A Woman – Ritchie Sambora.
19th July – up early and leave the USS Enterprise to head to Chiang Mai. Again the roads are superb. The weather's perfect, dry and a little overcast so it's warm but not hot. Hardly any traffic. I'm heading for Riders Corner in Chiang Mai to meet up with Phil who has given me loads of useful advice and help while I was planning this trip. As luck would have it a new Triumph dealer and service centre has opened up next door … which is timely as this morning both the front forks started leaking oil and need new seals and there's a horrible knocking sound coming from the back end, so it's straight in tomorrow morning for a full service and repairs.
Going to spend a few days here doing some short rides before heading south towards Bangkok and the coast. Don't want to come home, just want to keep riding round Thailand.
Today's song – Keep On Runnin' – Journey
I'm genuinely feeling sad to leave Kazakhstan this morning but equally excited about crossing into China.
The riding, the poeople, the country, the deserts, even the big bad scary roads have been one hell of an experience in Kazakhstan and I want to come back.
But for now I'm concentrating on China. I'm nervous about the border crossing hoping that all my paperowork for KZ is in order so I can leave without a problem and likewise that China is all OK.
I needn't have worried. The Kazakh border guards are all very friendly and helpful. I'm the first to arrive at the gate so end up chatting with the local Lieutenant who speaks some English. Then a quick look at my passport and away I go into KZ customs to clear the bike. All together it look about half an hour to complete the paperwork and formalities with the bike KZ side and I roll on the China.
Then I'm in China! On a Britsih motorcycle! I can't stop grinning!
We head into Khorgas for the rest of the day as we need to pick up my temporary import licence, so we have some lunch, chat over tea before chcking in to a local hotel for a siesta. Dinner and an early night. Tomorrow Yining for my driving licence and Chinese number plate.
Frank also has a driver, Mr. Sh. Mr. Sh is a top bloke, Sh means stone in Chinese.
Next morning we have the import licence for the Tiger so we head off early to Yining to sort out my chinese driving licence and number plate.
Mr. Sh's sat nav is playing up so it takes a while to find the right police station. The driving in the town's is the worst I've ever known. You need eyes every where. There's almost no time at all to check out the local laydees! Almost. They're gorgeous.
After a couple of hours we find the first of two police stations. The boss and his right hand lady both come out to say hello and look at the bike.
Then disaster. The computer system crashes as my number plate was being processed, so we adjourn for lunch to a roadside cafe for tea and the best noodles I've ever had and then back to the station at 4 to see what the latest is. Still no computer so instead Frank arranges for us to take a letter from the boss explaining that the procedure could not be completed due to computer error but all is OK, so hopefully I won't get arrested. I'm a little disappointed as I was planning this entire cockney ryhming slag gag about my old china plate so I can't do that now.
So, a lot later than planned we head off towards the mountains where we will be camping at lake Sayram Hu, which Frank tells me is stunning. But not before another minor hitch and argument.
I have to fill up with fuel before we leave. At the next petrol station I am told that motorcycles cannot fill up at the pumps because the engines will make the petrol explode. You are supposed to wait by the edge of the station and someone brings 2 litres at a time in a tin kettle. There are blokes everywhere with fags on the go!
I lost my temper a little and told them to put the f'ing fuel in the f'ing tank or I'm going to f'off somehere else. After a bit of negotiation they agreed and filled me up at the pump. Now we have a routine whereby Mr. Sh and Frank go into each petrol station first and explain that the Tiger is a special British bike that will not explode at the pumps. This seems to work.
So, fully fuelled we head to the hills.
And the lake it simply stunning. Frank tells me it is a plateau lake. Surrounded by snow capped mountains and pine forests, it's an impressive sight. Looks like You Tube is blocked from here so no video for now.
By christ it was cold last night. And my tent leaks like a sieve in a rain storm so will be looking for a Chinese replacement.
But what a way to wake up seeing the sun rise over the lake!
We're heading off at 7:30 to ride 700kms to Turpan. Turpan is also known as Fire City by the Chinese as it's the hottest place in China. Mr Sh tells me he was there last week and it hot 55 deg c! But for now I'm wrapped up in my warmest bike kit with the heated grips on as the lake is seriously cold and we're at 3,500m altitude as well.
Motorcycles are banned from using the motorways in China except for this part of the world. Which is music to my ears. The road surface is like silk (well we are on the Silk Route after all). Just a joy after the battering the Tiger and I took from the Kazakhstan roads.
So we're on the G30 tiwards Turpan and the weather soon warms up and we slip from mountains to proper Gobi desert. The express highway is a lovely curvy ride, until about 3 hours from Turpan. Then it starts to get really hot. The road starts to wind through hillsides that are very biblical looking. I fully expect to see a sign saying Noah's Boat Yard round every corner, or Moses bounding down a valley shouting "Oi lads, take a look at these scrolls …"
Then we're into the desert floor. Just rocks and stones and unvelieveably hot. As much as I'm enjoring the ride I'm glad to hit town.
Turpan's small by Chinese standards. I like the place. The hotel is great. A shower that works, hot water on demand, internet and a glass wall between the bathroom and the bedroom so presumably you can watch your loved one take a dump before a night of high passion. How romantic.
Having a great time with Frank and Mr. Sh. Top blokes.
Song of the day – Mowin' Down The Roses – Jamey Johnson – coz it's a bloody funny song and I can fully identify with it the story having done something very similar myself a few years back.
I'm staying two nights in Turpan as Frank has organised a day's sight seeing.
That evening we head back to the main square in Turpan for more mutton kebabs.
The local square has a huge fountain with Vegas style lighting that synchs with music so we kick back, eat, drink and make merry.
Bit of a strange day today. It's two years since my dad passed away and also the 90th anniversary of the founding of the Chinese Communist party. Been thinking a lot about him on today's ride (my dad, not Chairman Mao).
The original plan was to hammer down the highway to Hami before sunsrise, but we got an earlky start and made Hami by earlt afternoon, so on Frank's advice we pushed on to Dun Huang on the basis that there was more to see there than Hami so total push today was abou 900kms of desert riad in about 13 hours ..knackered, but in a good way.
Mr. Sh warned me that there would be about 130 kms of bad road, and he wasn't wrong.
The dust was like talcum powder and was getting into everything; the road such as it was, was 2 foot deep in sandy dusty talcum powder stuff that was being stirred up by hundreds of trucks coming at me from all directions. So no option but the open up the Tiger and cane it with a Hail Mary and hope for the best and left Mr. Sh and Frank behind. Scary as f**k but the only option was to dawdle, get the front wheel stuck in the sandy dusty stuff and end up on the deck getting run over by a big Chinese truck.
We eventually got to Dun Huang around 11 and found a local place for more great food and a cold beer or 12
Frankie wasn't happy with the hotel so we moved up the street to a new one called Guanyuan. Way better.
I was a bit shocked at the entrance fees for both. On a par with UK prices but definitey worth a visit.
That evening was taken up with a Mongolian hot pot which is a big pot of boiling water on a gas ring, plates of different fish and meat pieces (including tripe), which you chuck in the pot, boil up and then mix in with different pastes and spices. Washed down with beer and Mr. Sh's 58% Chinese vodka. Lethal.
We finished the evening off with a proper massage down the road from the hotel. And before you say anything it was a proper massage, head to toe and no happy ending. Really needed it after the battering I've taken over the last few weeks.
Jiquan and The Great Wall of China 3rd July 2011
Leaving Dun Huang on fabulously flat and smooth road snaking through the desert towards Jiquan to visit the west end pass or gate of the Great Wall Of China.
The roads are great. Motorway all the way (still getting away with riding the bike on the highways and expressways).
Arriving at the West Gate at about 3, I dump the bike and head up the hill just in time to see a Kung Fu display depicting battles between General Gwan Yu's troops taking on the Mongols.
The West Gate and the wall do not disappoint. The general's quarters are well worth a visit, complete with waxworks characters (I'm told they are made by Madame Tussauds).
After spending a couple of hours wandering around the gate, we're off to our next stop. Camping at the foot of the Great Wall!
Chairman Mao once said that you could not be a hero until you have walked the wall so I'm looking to get some hero points pretty soon.
A bunch of young Chinese tourists turn up at our camp site later that evening facinated by the bike. They all want photos of me adn the bike.
Picnic dinner and drink too much scotch! Then the skies opened and it hammered down all night.
Chinese Name and English Name 6th July 2011
Tonight over dinner and a lot of beer and apricot spirit, Mr. Sh and I have given eachother an English and Chinese name.
From now on Mr. Sh will adopt the English name Geordie on the basis that he is from the North East, is hard as nails, loves a laugh, is an honest, hard working fella and knows how to party.
He has given me the name Sheung Tchien which means Forward and was the name of one of Mao's main generals during the fight against Chiang Kai-shek. He thinks that I'm the sort of person who always goes forward and nevr back. He's not far wrong. I'm genuinely honoured. I feel a new tattoo coming on.
Quick Update From Xian 7th July 2011
Just a quick update. Am currently in Xian which is one hell of a city. Arrived in the dark late last night and managed to negotiate the traffic – frightening.
The pace has been relentless and been trying to cram in as much as possible so not had much time to update this blog and get new pics up but will "backfill" as soon as I get a few hours and a decent internet connection.
Just spent a couple of hours with Mr. Sh and Frank figuring out the best route south. The weather is still bad further south and floods, landslides and road washouts are still happening so it may mean either taking a big detour or possibly having to strap the Tiger to the back of Mr. Sh's pick up and taking the Expressway (I've been officially kicked off the Expressways after our little scam was discovered – more about that later) until we get to Kunming. We're looking at the CCTV news now.
Xian to Guangyuan, Sichuan Province 8th July 2011
We've come up with a cunning plan that will help us avoid any floods or landslides. I won't go into detail at this moment in time as I don't want to drop the lads in the doodoo if you catch my drift but it will allow me to keep a decent speed up for the next few days.
Li Bai, China's most famous poet once wrote about the route from Xian to Sichuan
"It is more difficult to reach Sichuan than it is to touch the sky"
Maybe … but it's fun trying!
Guanyuan to Deyang 9th July 2011
I had to laugh this morning. As we're were leaving the hotel, 2 young lads started kocking seven shades of s..t out of eachother on the pavement. It went on for about 2 minutes by which time one was getting a proper battering from the other. A police car pulled up with 6 coppers and soldiers in it. They started shouting at the two lads which made no difference so they let rip with the siren. The two lads suddenly stood to attention, straightened their shirts and acted as though nothing had happened.
Riding through the mountains known as the 27 Peaks was stunning and a great ride.
Panda Research and Breeding Base in Chengdu 10th July 2011
It's great to see that so much is being done to protect these animals. They all seem very happy in their surroundings. The park itself is well organised and well run. Once inside it's hard to believe you are so close to a major city like Chengdu.
Sichuan Food 11th July 2011
The food all the way down through China has been great, but now that we're in Sichuan, I'm really loving it.
Last night we went into downtown Chengdu to the old part of town which has been renovated and is a great place to spend a few hours just hanging out … BUT ..,. the restaurants there, lovely as they are, charge London prices. One plate of food is £30! So we beat a hasty retreat to our usual type of establishment where the 3 of us eat very well for about £20 including a good few beers.
Geordie Sh always orders the food, and the man knows his stuff, last night was no exception. Outstanding food, fresh ingredients all washed down with some cold Tsingtao or Harbin (Geordie's home town brew).
Chinese takeaway in SW15 will never be the same after this trip.
World's Largest Buddha, Leshan 11th July 2011
I took a boat trip rather to look at it rather than climb to the top as I figured I'd get a better feel for the scale of the giant Buddha and I wasn't wrong, it's truly awe inspiring! I've just posted some pictures in the gallery.
I'm now in the Emei Moutains, the spiritual home of Buddhism in China visiting the temples. More tomorrow.
Mount Emei 12th July 2011
Up early this morning to ride up to the summit of Mount Emei to see the temples and the Golden Buddha.
It's raining hard-ish and the summit is wrapped in cloud but I'm not bothered. The road is spectacular again, following a mountain stream up the valley to the first stop off point at temples mid way up the mountain. And it's a bit of a trek in soaking wet riding kit, but well worth the sweat.
On the way back down I lost Mad Frankie Fan (as he has become known this week) for a about 10 minutes only to be acosted by some very young Chinese girls all wanting a picture with me … I'm old enough to be their grandad, never mind father. How come this never happened when I was a teenager?
There wasn't a great deal to see at the summit as the rain cloud had completely engulfed the Buddha and temples but there's something very special about this place.
While I was there I had a word with the big fella to see if he coould fix us up with 3 lovely young ladies to join us for dinner. We'll see what happens.
Leshan to Zhao Tong 13th July 2011
What a day!
Left Emei Mountain to head back to Leshan to pick up the main road towards Kunming stopping off on route for the night.
All started well enough, if a little damp – all my clothes are wet as it has been raining non stop for days and it's so humid, trying to get anything dry is impossible. It's definitely the rainy season. The Sichuan mountains were as stunning as ever. The towns and villages are a little scruffy and dirty; it doesn't look like the new market economy has reached here yet.
Then we find that the main road is closed. No reason is given, but judging from the heavy earth moving gear that's in the area there's been a big land slide. So we get shunted onto Chinese B roads. The sat nav and route maps are no use, so we rely purely on local directions. I spend the next 4 hours out of the saddle and on the pegs as we barrell along dirt roads through the mountains. The surfaces are unreal.
Old cobbles – covered in mud and gravel
Rock – covered in mud and gravel
Mud – covered in mud and gravel
A big ravine on my left and a solid red rock wall on my right. Scarey but loads of fun.
The mud is bright pink! I guess as a result of the red rock it's been ground from … and it's slippery as snot on a door knob (my thanks to Andy Lessels for that delightful analogy)
We finally hooked up with the express highway and I pulled my usual stunt to get past the barriers so the last two hours were a little more sensible.
Just ate a huge Chinese Hot Pot with the lads, washed down with a few beers and dog penis vodka (seriously). Off to bed. Knackered. Knees are shot after today.
Nice flat road tomorrow …. I hope
Zhao Tong to Kunming 14th July 2011
Blagged my way onto the Express Highway again so the road is smooth, fast and winds it's way thropugh more fabulous scenery. It's still cloudy but it's cool and dry, so I'm a happy bunny. My knees and arse are even happier.
On the subject of my arse (please note the correct English spelling), several people seems to be interested in the state of it. So, for my sis, uncle Dai, my brother and Peter, Barb and Marj (the 3 lovely New Yorkers I met at the Terra Cota Warriors), my arse is in fine fettle, thank you for asking
Arrive in Kunming early evening and dine on more great food before bed. Day off tomorrow so plan on going for a wander round Kunming.
Hanging out in Kunming 15th July 2011
A lie in this morning. Luxury. My room is on the 20th floor of a very strange hotel. Great views of the city, but the bathroom lights don't work and the bog's blocked! Sod it, I'm off into town.
Mad Frankie Fan decides we need to climb yet another mountain first to see another temple. This time though it is Taoist not Buddist.
Just what my knees and thighs need after the last too days, but I'm happy to go with the flow and the park that leads up to the temple is lovely and quiet so a nice easy morning.
I spend the afternoon wandering round the shops with Frankie (all the big brands are here including B and Q!). Frankie fancies KFC for lunch so to my eternal shame I agree. I've counted at least 6 KFC outlets and they are all mobbed. Bloody shame. Globalisation! No one is immune to it.
Later we collect Geordie Sh and head for dinner. We find a restuarant that is run by people from Geordie's home town in NE China, a place called Harbin so we dine on Harbin specialities including a type of black pudding and a pork and cabbage stew that reminds me a lot if good old Irish boiled beef and cabbage. Great grub.
Kunming to Pu'er 16th July 2011
Yunnan Province seems to be a lost more laid back then elesewehere in China. I blagged my way on to the Express Highway again and no one seems bothered. I even got a tug from the old bill an hour from Pu'er and all he was really interested in was checking to see my paperwork was in order.
Mohan, Boten, Chiang Khan, Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai 19th July 2011
Here's the story of the last few days …
Got to the China/Laos border at Mohan without any problem. Mostly express highway all the way – getting shouted at by the toll gate guards everytime, but I just lift the front of my helmet so they can see I'm just an idiot tourist, I grin like a mad fool and shout "lovely to meet you too" – that seems to work most of the time. On the odd occasion it doesn't work, I load the bike onto the back of a pick up, hide in the back then a mile down the road, drop it off the back and ride on. Nice.
A final dinner with Mad Frankie Fan and Geordie Sh, more donkey cock vodka, beer and apricot vodka.
Next morning (July 18th) breakfast is very subdued. I'm really feeling sad about leaving China and parting company with "the lads". We've had a real laugh, even on the days that were crap, we still ended up in a restuarant somewhere eating drinking and laughing. Good times.
Only takes an hour to check out from Laos and to enter Thailand at Chiang Khong. As always the customs and immigration people are very friendly and helpful.
And in no time I'm heading for my first overnight stop in Thailand. The Triumph Tiger's loving these roads and so am I. It's weird, I've only been to Thailand once before on a two week holiday and very nearly stayed. This time it feels a little like I'm coming home. Odd?
Regular readers will alreadt know, I love my food, and I love Thai food, so I head straight from the Death Star to a local restaurant for Tom Kar Kai soup, seafish and fried rice and half a dozen Singhas. Song of the day – If God Was A Woman – Ritchie Sambora.
19th July – up early and leave the USS Enterprise to head to Chiang Mai. Again the roads are superb. The weather's perfect, dry and a little overcast so it's warm but not hot. Hardly any traffic. I'm heading for Riders Corner in Chiang Mai to meet up with Phil who has given me loads of useful advice and help while I was planning this trip. As luck would have it a new Triumph dealer and service centre has opened up next door … which is timely as this morning both the front forks started leaking oil and need new seals and there's a horrible knocking sound coming from the back end, so it's straight in tomorrow morning for a full service and repairs.
Going to spend a few days here doing some short rides before heading south towards Bangkok and the coast. Don't want to come home, just want to keep riding round Thailand.
Today's song – Keep On Runnin' – Journey
