From the Desert to Taiwan

2wheels

Community Manager
Joined
Apr 2, 2012
Location
Chiang Mai
Bikes
ROYAL ENFIELD CLASSIC
FROM THE DESERT TO TAIWAN

Intro and preparation

This ride actually began back in Central Australia in June 2016 when I met a young Taiwanese couple who had stopped their car beside the road to photograph Uluru.
Problem was they had stopped near Atila, thinking it was Uluru (a common mistake).

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No, they had another 147 kms to travel. However, they would have been driving into a setting sun and possibly into straying cattle, camels and ‘roos.

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So we camped the night and I had made a nice friendship with Mina and Paul, who were back-packing around Australia, picking up work where-ever they could.
They really enjoyed The Centre and after many jobs, including picking apples in Tasmania, decided to accept a job working in the store at the very remote Aboriginal community
of Kaltukatjara (Docker River), 230 west of Uluru.
They enjoy a challenge do young Mina and Paul.

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Sadly, their old Mitsubishi died along the way and I rescued them from that situation which resulted in an invitation for me to visit them in Taiwan. Why not?
From the desert to Taiwan.

I enjoyed doing some research and decided June was probably the best time to be riding there.

The best bike rental deal by far was from Max at 555 in Kaohsiung City. By incredible coincidence Paul lives in that very city!! Sadly, the largest capacity bike Max 555 could offer was 155cc.
I knew I’d be riding the mountain roads so that small capacity bike might be struggling.
However, that’s what I have booked. We’ll see.

I found that Thai International had by far the best flight schedule, with a direct flight from Bangkok to Taipei.

When planning my riding route I was aware that I would be riding on the right hand side of the roads, so I attempted to have the special sites on my right.

An International Driving Permit is required (well, all my research said so) and that involved a couple of frustrating visits to Immigration to obtain a Residency Certificate.
They are available upstairs at Promenada but that table is only open between 9am and 11am. The service will be free but they will require “one week” to process the application.
I was told that if I didn’t have one spare week then the agents at Tian will have the Certificate next day in exchange for 1,000 baht.

Here is what was required for the IDP.

1 Thai Drivers License (original and copy)
2 Passport and Non Imm Visa (original and copy) and extensions plus last entry.
3 Residence Certificate or yellow Residence Book or Work Permit. (plus copy)
4 Two photos “4cm x 6cm”.
Fee is 505 baht and Permit will be available next day. It was.

Having received and checked my IDP I noticed that “Taiwan” is not listed amongst the “Contacting Parties”, so I assume it has been thrown in with “China”.

Next I managed to obtain a hand-full of Taiwanese cash, some US dollars and, together with my credit and debit cards, I should be financially fluid for the duration of my visit.

Visa?
"The following passport holders are allowed a 90 day visa-free stay:
USA, UK, Canada, Australia (exp. 2018/12/31), Japan (日本), South Korea (대한민국), Germany, France, Andorra, Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Chile, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, El Salvador, Estonia, Finland, Greece, Haiti, Honduras, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Israel, Italy, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Nicaragua, Norway, Poland, Paraguay, Portugal, Romania, San Marino, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Vatican City State.


The following passport holders are allowed a 30 day visa-free stay:
Singapore, Malaysia, Belize, Dominican Republic, Guatemala, St. Christopher and Nevis, St. Lucia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines
Passports from Thailand (ประเทศไทย) and Brunei are visa-free until 31 July, 2018."


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Re-entry permit obtained.
Set to go.
But ......... I received a message yesterday that just as I arrive at Taipei so does a typhoon!!
Could be fun!
 
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Friday 8th June (Trains, Planes and Automobiles)


It was a three hour 15 minute flight from Bgk to Taipei, passing over Ubon, Pakse, Hue and along the deep channel in the South China Sea.
Hundreds of fishing or trawling boats were seen below us.

Into Taipei to be greeted by friendly Immigration folk, always a pleasant introduction to a new country.
Then a frantic taxi ride to the nearby Lutel Hotel/Hostel. Tiny rooms but convenient location and friendly staff.

I was knackered and needed rest.

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Well, I was quiet and sober. Thankfully, so were the other guests.
 
Saturday 9th June

A taxi ride to the nearby Taoyuan Train Station where the excellent fast train rushed me down to Zuoying near Kaohsiung in about 1 hour 40 minutes
where my Taiwanese friends were waiting to walk me to their home.
My Thai friend 'Golf' had accompanied me, so subsequent riding was four people on two small bikes.

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Taoyuan had good shopping. The speciality was apple milk. Yummy.

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We stopped to say hello to Paul’s 80 year old grandmother, who appears to be a sprightly 60 year old.
She climbs and descends 4 flights of stairs a few times a day and has done very well with her ice-cream business.
A delightful lady.
This is a major pine-apple growing area.

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Then a short cut, lugging our luggage behind us, through Paul’s old school yard where we spotted some lads playing basketball.
This guy arrived ‘packed’.

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Humid as a sauna, so freshened up and then I was initiated into riding on the other side of the road and following all the rules by going to the impressive
Fo Guang Shan Buddha park in Dashu District of Kaohsiung.
This place is massive and if you want to appreciate it all you will need 2 days and your walking shoes.

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On the way home to Dashu District it was a detour to the Zuoying Saturday Night Market.
Excellent snacks and more friendly people.

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Because Mina and Paul had lived a few months with the Anangu of Central Australia they had collected a few stunning paintings.

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Knackered again after that.
However, I'm gaining some very favourable impressions.
 
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Sunday 10th June

I just wanted to ride, so Paul gave me his little bike again and I took any road that I fancied and finished up back in Kaohsiung again!
But this time I discovered the lovely river that flows through the large city and watched a bit of rehearsal for next Monday’s Dragon Boat Festival.
We grabbed whatever looked delicious at a roadside restaurant and thereby discovered the excellent rice dumplings. Yummy.

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We also rode up into the cool mountains around the Zoo area for some relief from the sauna.

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Then that night back at ‘home’ we bought a few beers and celebrated the 2nd anniversary since we met back in Central Oz.
That’s when I became addicted to their honey beer!

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That night a powerful typhoon hit us and we had torrential rain through the night.
“Hmmm, bike riding for about one week might be a challenge”, we thought.
 
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Haha so far so good. Let's hope the rain doesn't last as long as forecast. I know your itching to get into the countryside.
 
Taiwan...... Not had many RR from that area.
Well done.

Please after you have finished this interesting RR.
I am very interested in more details about you getting the IDP.
Was this done in CM and were.

Thank you for your time.
Steve
 
Hope that the typhoon dies down soon so you can finally go that ride around Taiwan - thanks for posting these really nice pictures
 
Taiwan...... Not had many RR from that area.
Well done.

Please after you have finished this interesting RR.
I am very interested in more details about you getting the IDP.
Was this done in CM and were.

Thank you for your time.
Steve


Hi Prince666.
Yes, the IDP was obtained in Chiang Mai hassle free.
Taiwan is a superb place to visit for many reasons, most of which will become obvious during my RR.
Regards.
 
Monday 11th June

Back into Kaohsiung to collect the two bikes we had ordered.
Another train journey.

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The usual snacks and fresh fruit along the way to the 555 bike rental shop.

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That’s when the torrential rain hit us again. We had a difficult decision to make.
A hurtful one.

From now on this is not a ‘ride report’. I’m ashamed to admit that it is a ‘drive report’!
Readers have my full approval to turn off now!
But you’ll miss some sensational sights.

The long range forecast predicted 80-99% rain for the following week and the consensus of opinion was that it simply wouldn’t be worth
the misery of riding in a foreign environment and it would be risky in torrential rain day after day.

Would that be enjoyable? Am I a masochist? No.

Max and Justin at 555 are excellent people to deal with.
I’ll be back in Sept/Oct and weather forecasts will be ignored.

So, off to a nice beach past some great scenery.

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We happily headed out of frantic Kaohsiung towards Sail Rock beach in our Colt and booked into the classy Minimi Inn at Aruba Beach.
Not bargain basement but just what the doctor ordered and right in front of a lovely beach. Heaven on a stick.

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That evening a walk around the nearby street market for some snacks.
Trump is topical here right now.

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Further south tomorrow.
 
Thanks for the heads up and I think it is the right decision - I am leaving today for Laos for a few days and will stick to the paved roads as we have had the last few days also quite a bit of rain and dark skies. That Minimi Inn at Aruba Beach does not look bad at all and I see that it comes with a four-legged friend. I hope that you coming days are filled with great views and look forward to more of your beautiful pictures.
 
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Thanks for the heads up and I think it is the right decision - I am leaving today for Laos for a few days and will stick to the paved roads as we have had the last few days also quite a bit of rain and dark skies. That Minimi Inn at Aruba Beach does not look bad at all and I see that it comes with a four-legged friend. I hope that you coming days are filled with great views and look forward to more of your beautiful pictures.

OK Auke.
Take good care.
 
Tuesday 12th June

That’s an excellent Inn and beach. The esplanade needs a tidy up though.

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A massive breakfast was served.

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We headed along the coast on 26 past Kenting National Park to the southern-most tip of Taiwan and looked across towards Hong Kong.
(Hint: you can actually ride closer down towards the final 500 metre walkway than to use their carpark).

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Then up along the magnificent east coast towards Taitung where there was a lot of major roadworks in progress which slowed the traffic and disrupted many views.
However, when it’s all complete the road will be safer and more enjoyable.

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We stopped at Jialeshui Falls where an electric bus took us along the rocky coast.

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Hualien was our overnight stop.
A large earthquake shook this city in February this year and lives were lost.

2018 Hualien earthquake - Wikipedia

It seems to be a popular area for whale spotting.

We checked into the Ocean Lover Homestay B&B which had very friendly staff and was an excellent location near the Night Bazaar and easy exit from the city the next day.

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This was an attraction at the Night Bazaar but I don't know what it is. MIG?

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Wednesday 13th June

Another massive breakfast and a late departure from Hualien.

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And stocked up with something a bit different.

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Along this coastal area are many Churches and Christian cemeteries.

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The plan was to go through Taroko Gorge (bypassing the National Park).

This would turn out to be a day with some of the most stunning views I have ever seen.

It’s best to stay as close as possible to Taroko and fill the tank before tackling the gorge road along the magnificent Highway 8.
Some of the tunnels are narrow as are many of the bends. Extreme caution is required.
Thankfully, there are many parking bays where vehicles can stop to allow other vehicles to pass and for riders/passengers to alight and take in the views.
A lot of 8 was ‘head in the clouds’.

Here’s a sample from Highway 8.

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Take the turn to Tiansing.

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From 8 we turned left and enjoyed different but splendid scenery along Highway 14.
This road is a bit more risky in that mirrors aren’t yet erected at severe bends and trucks and buses don’t like stopping to allow others past.
‘Take it easy’ is definitely good advice.
Different scenery along here too.

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Here's a good idea.

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We decided to stop in the clouds at the splendid Formosa Inn at Qingjing with a 7-11 nearby, a Japanese Restaurant, a seafood restaurant and what appears to be a place that specializes in lamb.

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The ‘Chicken King’ opposite Formosa is an excellent and thriving venue, specializing in more than just chicken.
Very helpful and friendly staff too, with stunning views if there before dark.
This is a fascinating and very scenic part of the wonderful Highway 14.

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Vans available at a reasonable price, although accommodation seems to be generally about double Thai rates for the same kind.

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What a pity the Formosa bed was made of concrete; probably explaining why I got an easy and substantial discount.

So Highway 8 and 14 were definite highlights so far.
That and the east coast.
That’s why I’ll be back and that’s why I can recommend this fascinating place.
 
Very good report , that country is really rugged and fresh.Yes it makes one want to explore. Nice photos, can get a feel of the place.
 
Back in Qingjing ('phone pics).

At the excellent Chicken King.

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Found in the car-park this morning; not a bad way to tackle the mountain twisties.

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A Thai restaurant.

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Very good report , that country is really rugged and fresh.Yes it makes one want to explore. Nice photos, can get a feel of the place.

You would really enjoy it Kevin.
I think everyone here would.
Lots of feathered friends in the mountains too.
 
Thursday 14th June

After a decent breakfast at Formosa we continued along the 14 descending from the mountains to Sun Moon Lake.

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No, too touristy.

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So through small villages and into Chiayi where we happened upon an ‘old city’ set of buildings selling everything from specialty honey to home-made ice-cream.
This is Hinoki Japanese village.

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The Look Hotel gave a discount. It’s nearly opposite the train station and 5 minutes walk from a night market. And the bed is 100% better than last night.

We were lucky to find a delightful restaurant with friendly staff and delicious food.

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It's pouring rain tonight and apparently will be for the remainder of our Taiwan visit. (n)
Tomorrow? Don't know.
 
You are having the same luck with the weather as you did on your UK trip a couple of years ago Ron, too much rain.

Lovely scenery and photos that you are posting
 
A Facebook friend is also in Taiwan and also not so lucky: Taiwan day 4. Our rented big bike broke down even before our trip in the mountains had started. No replacement available. Bad luck. We rented a car and are hiking at 2000m +. Enjoying the beautiful nature and very friendly Taiwanese people.
 
Thursday 14th June

After a decent breakfast at Formosa we continued along the 14 to Sun Moon Lake.
No, too touristy.

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So through small villages and into Chiayi where we happened upon an ‘old city’ set of buildings selling everything from specialty honey to home-made ice-cream.
This is a Japanese setting named ‘Hinoki Village’. Quite an interesting visit.

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The Look Hotel gave a discount.
It’s nearly opposite the train station and 5 minutes walk from a night market.
And the bed is 100% better than last night.

A nearby restaurant provided excellent food and friendly service.

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Eating here is a gastronomical delight!
 
A Facebook friend is also in Taiwan and also not so lucky: Taiwan day 4. Our rented big bike broke down even before our trip in the mountains had started. No replacement available. Bad luck. We rented a car and are hiking at 2000m +. Enjoying the beautiful nature and very friendly Taiwanese people.

Wonder where he rented from.
 
Friday 15th June.

On the homeward leg now.

A short cruise along the freeway to Tainan, which appears to be a relatively modern and thriving city.

We found a new Hotel named, for some reason, 'The Colour Room' at a good location, surrounded by a Korean Restaurant, a Chinese Restaurant, two Hot Pot Restaurants,
a Japanese restaurant, “Six Thousand Beef Soup”, a “Sausage Museum”, a BBQ restaurant and a couple of Pizza joints.
So we’re OK for sustenance tonight then.

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Never heard of this before.

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We chose pizza.

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Really like this part of Tainan.
 
Saturday 16th June

An easy cruise down to return the Colt at Kaohsiung and have a chat to Justin at 555.
He's got the right bike for me for October.

An interesting thing at car return is that road tolls are paid then.
Each vehicle, except bikes, have a sensor which is activated when passing Highway and Expressway checkpoints.
I paid about 140 baht for all of my driving here.

Correct road behaviour.

Wait in the rectangle until the lights turn and only then can you do the turn.
Very orderly and disciplined.

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Back 'home' to find Paul pruning his pet rabbit.

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Sunday 17th June

Goodbye to my Taiwanese friends Mina and Paul and on to the fast train into Taipei for a couple of nights.
It really is a fast train.

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Something you don't see every day.

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I was told that if a can of this beer is not sold within 18 days it is sent back to the suppliers for a refund.

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A fair choice on the menu tonight.
I recommend the Orange Hotel only 5 minutes walk from the main Taipei MRT station.

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Monday 18th June

The last day in Taiwan and we headed for the capital Taipei.
I'm generally not a city guy but I do like this city.
We spent the day in and around the incredible 101 Tower.
508 metres and allegedly the fastest elevator in the world at 1010 metres/minute.

The red-line train, where passengers (as everywhere here) wait in an orderly manner for their train.

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Part of the 101 Tower.

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Interesting nearby architecture.

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Some views of Taipei from 101.

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Bit by bit the mountains are being encroached upon.

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Some observation from what I saw and heard.

Open, friendly, helpful, honest, polite people.​
Very good roads.​
Very Good driving behaviour.​
Orderly.
Ask for discount and it will most likely be granted.​
Accommodation and food is more expensive than in Thailand.​
Tipping is not expected.​
Generally very good accommodation everywhere.​
Outlets avoid using plastic.
Cleanliness.
No police hassles.​
East Coast, Hwy 8 and Hwy 14 were the highlights.​
555 best rentals.​
Best time to visit probably Sept/Oct.​
 
A final snack in Taiwan.

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Lots of food pics in this report which is dedicated to the memory of the recently departed Anthony Bourdain.
A complex man who appreciated simple, honest food.
RIP sir.

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But mainly dedicated to my dear friend Auke whom I'll miss greatly. Thanks for your friendship mate.
 
Nice report.
I rode there year before renting a scooter on west coast.
I found 555 on facebook now so will rent from them next time.
 
Iron Chef (excellent TV show that was too), Max is the man to talk to at 555 in Kaohsiung.
If he is unavailable the Taiwanese Justin is just as helpful.
Shop is an easy walk from the train station.
Plenty of accommodation there too.
Love Taiwan and will return to tour on a 555 Yamaha in 2019.
 
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