Chiang Mai, Thailand to Vladivostok, Russia

So, now for some serious research before we hit the border area, as it looks very confusing. The Far East's version of the Golden Triangle, where Russia, North Korea & China all meet at one spot.


North Korea is the most private, secretive and strange country on the planet. It borders South Korea to its south, China to its west (& north) & Russia to its north, with ONLY 17km of international border with Russia!



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History of the North Korean border with Russia:


The border between Russian Empire and Korean Kingdom (then, a tributary state of the Qing Empire) came into existence as a result of the treaty between China and Russia signed in Beijing in November 1860. Under the agreement, the Qing Empire ceded to the Russian Empire the territories east of theUssuri River; the description of the border between the two Russian and Qing Empires included the lower course (the last 20 li) of the Tumen River as its southernmost section.[7][8]
Although the existence of Korea as a separate country was not even mentioned in the 1860 Sino-Russian agreement, Chinese influence in Korea waned, and Japanese grew, during the late 19th and early 20th century. The Treaty of Shimonoseki (1895) ended the Chinese protectorate over Korea, while the Japan-Korea Treaty of 1905 made Korea a protectorate of Japan; the Japan-Korea Treaty of 1910 finalized the annexation of Korea by Japan. Thus, the Tumen River border became a border between the Russian Empire (later, the USSR) and the Japanese Empire; this situation continued until the fall of the Japanese rule in Korea in 1945.
Regardless of who was in charge in Korea, the coastal strips of Russian and Korean territory completely separated China from the Sea of Japan.
To develop the natural resources of its coastal strip, and to protect its borders against a potential Japanese invasion, in 1938 the USSR began the construction of a railway line from BaranovskyJunction on the Trans-Siberian Railway to Kraskino. The 190-km long railway was completed in 1941. After the end of World War II this railway was extended from Kraskino to Khasan, on the Korean border, its total length reaching was 238 km. The Khasan station was opened on September 28, 1951.
Soon, a temporary wooden bridge was built across the Tumen River, and in 1952 the first train crossed from Russia to Korea.
In 1990, the Soviet Union and North Korea signed an agreement on the establishment of the state border along the fairway (thalweg) of the Tumen. The former Noktundo Island, 32 square km in size, was recognized by North Korea as part of Russa. This agreement was not recognized by South Korea, which continues to consider Noktundo as Korean territory.
In the second half of the nineteenth century, thousands of Korean refugees and displaced persons crossed the border. Their descendants live throughout the Russian Federation and otherCommonwealth of Independent States (CIS) countries to this day.





The so-called "terrestrial boundary" between the two countries actually runs along the fairway of the Tumen Riverand its estuary; the "maritime boundary" separates the two countries territorial waters in the Sea of Japan.[2]
There are several bilateral agreements concerning the North Korea-Russia border.[3] The principal border treaty currently in force is "The Agreement between the USSR and the DPRK on the position of the line of the Soviet-Korean border" (Russian: Договор между Союзом Советских Социалистических Республик и Корейской Народно-Демократической Республикой о прохождении линии советско-корейской государственной границы), signed on April 17, 1985.[3]
A special trilateral treaty specifies the position of the point of junction of the borders of Russia, North Korea, and China.[4] The China-North Korea border and the North Korea-Russia border runs along the middle of the Tumen River, while the China-Russia border approaches the junction point overland, from the north. Since the notional tripoint is in the middle of the river, and it would be impractical to install a border monument there, the agreement provides instead that the three countries install border monuments on the river bank instead, and the position of the tripoint be determined with respect to those monuments.[4]
On the Russian side of the border, the adjacent administrative unit is the Khasansky District ofPrimorsky Krai; on the Korean side, the City of Rason. The main Russian border guard station in the area is Peschanaya.



There is NO foot passenger or car / truck international border crossing between North Korea and Russia. There is an International border crossing train link that crosses the Tumen river from Tumangang, North Korea to Khasan, Russia which does carry passengers, a very strange setup.



Immigration clearance is only available to passengers on the train between the two countries

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There is one border crossing on the North Korea-Russia border: the Friendship Bridge on the Tumen River,[2] located 800 m southwest of the Russian station Khasan, in theeponymous town. On the Korean side, the border train station is at Tumangang.
This is a railway-only crossing,[2] used by freight and passenger trains. There is no border crossing for road vehicles or pedestrians.[5]
As of 2008, the passenger service over the Friendship Bridge includes a Khasan-Tumangan shuttle train, as well as aKorean State Railway's direct rail car for the Moscow-Pyongyang service. The direct car travels from Moscow to Ussuriysk with a Moscow-Vladivostok train, and then to Khasan with an Ussuriysk-Khasan train; it crosses the border with the Khasan-Tumangan shuttle train, and then continues to Pyongyang with a domestic Korean train. At 10,272 km total route length, this is believed to be the longest direct (one-seat ride) passenger rail service in the world.[6]
In 2008, two Western tourists succeeded in taking a train from Russia to north Korea via the Friendship Bridge. However, normally the crossing is only used by citizens of Russia and North Korea, and is not open to third-country nationals.[6]
On April 2015 Deputy Ministers of Transport of Russia and North Korea, Nikolai Asaul and Kwok Il-ryong, signed an agreement on developing a road connection between Russia and North Korea.[5]





Below is a photo looking north from North Korea. You can see the international border crossing train bridge across the Tumen River from North Korea, north into Russia and the "spit" of china coming down from the NW with its look-out tower looking over North Korea & Russia


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The map below is a top view of the same area trying to show this complicated border as China's border comes across the Tumen River


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Rob did some research on Khasan and it didnt look good. Some westerners in a truck got into the Khasan restricted area, were stopped by the Russian Army. They were told that they could be escorted out immediately or they would be detained and lots of paperwork.


For us, being adventurers, this was one chance to see the North Korea border, so off south towards Khasan we headed. We were a bit worried about Rob's chain, 21,000km and it was done.



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Pretty good road to start off with, 46km we;ll be there in no time


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We cross the train line that links Russia to North Korea


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20km before the North Korean border and the tarmac ends

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Its hard packed, 90km/hr wasnt a problem


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The Sea of Japan/ Pacific Ocean right on our left




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About 5km north of Khasan, Russia, the border with North Korea is the "Restricted Area" sign, stating that permits are needed to go further


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WE figure we have Russian visa's, there's no barrier or military, what harm could there be in continuing to the North Korean border?




..... more to come
 
Good to see you are being true ADV riders ??


Here is a Google Earth maps which shows the terrain better.

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On the Chinese side one is allowed to view the area around the "Golden Triangle" by way of viewing platforms.

some 4 years ago I done the China/North Koran border road from Dandong to Mount Paektu, Baekdu, or Changbai. (2744 m )


Loosed 100s of pictures due to a virus on my PC .

Link.......https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paektu_Mountain


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From the Mountain 2 rivers are created.



1. Going North called the river Tumen
2. going South called the rive Yalu



The 2 rivers are at most parts the Border between China/ NK and apart from very small area near towns it is mainly unmanned on the Chinese side with very few fences.



From the border town of Hyesan (NK) and Changbai (China) you can follow the river North to the Mountain of Changbai, when at times you are only separated by the river which at times was only 3 meters wide with no Amy/Police and fences, one could very easy hope across ? but run the risk of being shot by the army on the NK side.



The road south from Chanbai to Dandong is one of the top 10 best scenic roads in China and is never travelled by motorbikes but with close proximity of NK it's got to be a big must.



From the top to the bottom is about 3000 km of roads to travel along the border and I am planning to do the whole route (top never done ) next year.
For me when I have crossed over to Dalian by ferry Dandong is only 250km away and is the Start of the Great Wall of China.
 
We head south into Khasan at the junction of the 3 countries, still no sign of Russian military or checkpoints, very strange.


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We head as far west as we can, which should be the North Korean border. At the train track, the trail stops. You can see the Chinese look-out to the right on the tongue of Chinese land that comes south along the Tumen River. The white look-out to the left we think was Russian. The hills to the left are North Korea.


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Rob's photo


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Jack with North Korean hills behind him


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The map below shows where we were parked when the photo was taken

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Soviet Military map of the area


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Rob decides that he really shouldnt be around here and heads back off north outside the restricted area, Jak & I cant resist poking around further south, we really want to see North Korea


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Off we go south along the Tumen River, Nortk Korea is 200 meters away across the river

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We get about 5 km south of Khasan, along the Tumen River, suddenly there's a huge gate with a huge Russian soldier the other side of it with a kalashnikov rifle, I check and there is a magazine inserted, shit.


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Below shows you where we got to in relation to Khasan


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Army base on the Tumen River

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This guy doesnt look happy and he's on his 2-way radio. I say to Jak, lets get out of here quick, Jak looks back and see's he has a strap all caught up in his back wheel, he has to turn the bike off and deal with it. By this time the Russian soldier with his loaded gun has come out of the gate and told me to turn my bike off. I say "no its ok where leaving", he says "no no no".


Jak has this on his GoPro, I will get it from him.


2 minutes passes and a green Russian jeep comes from inside the Army base to the gate with 4x soldiers in it. They jump out looking very serious, we're not quite sure how much trouble we're in. They tell us to ride the bikes into the Army base.



In the base parked right by the North Korean border, the soldier in charge, he has 3 stars on his shoulder, is making lots of phone calls. I manage to get a Russian guide who speaks english on the phone, its explained to him that we are in an illegal area, we will be fined and held for about 3 hours.



They take our telephones and camera's, they then tell us to follow the jeep on the bikes back to Khasan town to the main Army HQ. We get to the gate of the Army HQ, jak's helmet with the GoPro on is freaking the boss out and they put Jak's helmet in the jeep. We are put into a training room and the soldiers all go off talking. Here's Jak in the Army HQ


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All our particulars are taken, they have taken our passports. They want to know have we had any military training and who are we married too.


There is then 2 hours of documentation, we have to write a statement why we were there, we wrote we wanted to see the most eastern and southern part of Russia and the North Korean border, that seemed to satisfy the boss.



We then had to sign the statement on every page, all in Russian, we didnt know what we were admitting. Were were told that a 1,000 Ruble / USD$ 15 had to be paid at the bank too

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Attached was a list of the Russian laws we had broken too


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We were then escorted back out of the restricted area





..
 
Well done Phil and Jack.

You done very well to get that close to the river and only cost $15 in a fine.

At the end of the day you dint see the warning sign you don't speak or read Russian and you must of been the first people on motorbikes to have been stop like this
The army guys won't want all the shit and people above will ask the question how did you get so far as you did.


Did Jack say what his real job is ???
 
The area around Khasan has some battle history for the Russians. In early July 1938, the Japanese intercepted some Russian intelligence from HQ in Khabarovsk, which was a directive to beef up the defenses in the unoccupied high ground west of Lake Khasan, most notably the disputed Changkufeng Heights, because it would be advantageous for the Soviets to occupy terrain which overlooked the Korean port-city of Rajin, as well as strategic railways linking Korea to Manchuria.[SUP][6][/SUP] Within the next two weeks, small groups of Soviet border troops then moved into the area and began fortifying the mountain, constructing emplacements, observation trenches, entanglements, and communications facilities.



At first, the Japanese Korean Army, which had been assigned to defend the area, disregarded the Soviet advance. However, the Kwantung Army, whose administrative jurisdiction overlapped Changkufeng, pushed the Korean Army to take more action because it was suspicious of Soviet intentions. Following this, the Korean Army took the matter to Tokyo, recommending that a formal protest be sent to the USSR.
The conflict started on July 15, when the Japanese attaché in Moscow demanded the removal of Soviet border troops from theBezymyannaya (сопка Безымянная, Chinese name: Shachaofeng) and Zaozyornaya (сопка Заозёрная, Chinese name: Changkufeng) Hills to the west of Lake Khasan in the south of Primorye, not far from Vladivostok, claiming this territory by theSoviet–Korea border. The demand was rejected.




The first Japanese attack on July 29 was repelled, but on July 31 the Soviet troops had to retreat. The Japanese 19th Divisionalong with some Manchukuo units took on the Soviet 39th Rifle Corps under Grigori Shtern (eventually consisting of the 32nd,39th, and 40th Rifle Divisions, as well as the 2nd Mechanised Brigade).[SUP][7][/SUP] One of the Japanese Army Commanders at the battle was Colonel Kotoku Sato, the commander of the 75th Infantry Regiment. Sato's forces expelled Russian troops from the hill in a night sortie, the execution of which became a Japanese model for assaults on fortified positions.
It was also reported that during the Changkufeng Incident the Japanese orchestrated frontal assaults with light and medium tanks which were immediately followed by Russian tank and artillery counter-attacks. In 1933, the Japanese designed and built a "Rinji Soko Ressha" (Special Armoured Train). The train was deployed at "2nd Armoured Train Unit" in Manchuria and participated in the Second Sino-Japanese War and the Changkufeng conflict against the Soviets transporting thousands of Japanese troops to and from the battlefield, displaying to the West the capability of an Asian nation to adopt and implement Western ideas and doctrine concerning rapid infantry deployment and transportation.[SUP][citation needed][/SUP]
On 31 July, People's Commissar for Defence Kliment Voroshilov ordered combat readiness for 1st Coastal Army; Pacific Fleet was mobilized as well.
The chief of the Far East Front, Vasily Blücher, arrived at the front line on August 2, 1938. Under his command additional forces were moved to the zone of conflict and from August 2–9 the Japanese forces at Changkufeng were subjected to very heavy attacks.
On August 10, Japanese ambassador Mamoru Shigemitsu asked for peace.[SUP][8][9][/SUP]
August 11, 1938, in 13 hours 30 minutes of local time conflict was stopped[SUP][10]




battle area.jpg




[/SUP]

More than 6500 Soviet officers and soldiers were awarded the orders, decorations, and medals of the Soviet Union[SUP][11][/SUP] (26 of them were awarded the title Hero of the Soviet Union,[SUP][8][/SUP] and 95 were awarded the Order of Lenin[SUP][12][/SUP]).
The Soviet losses were blamed on the incompetence of Vasily Blücher. On October 22 he was arrested by the NKVD and later thought to have been tortured to death.[SUP][13][/SUP]
The Japanese military, while seriously analyzing the results of the battle, would later engage with the Soviets once more, with disastrous results, in the more extensiveBattle of Khalkhin Gol (Nomonhan) in the Soviet-Japanese Border War of 1939. This second engagement resulted in the defeat of the Japanese Sixth Army.

Following the end of World War II, at the International Military Tribunal for the Far East in 1946, thirteen high-ranking Japanese officials were charged with crimes against peace for their roles in initiating hostilities at Lake Khasan.[SUP][14]



Russian soldiers advancing to the north west of Khasan



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Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Lake_Khasan




Memorial in Krasinko


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Well done Phil and Jack.

You done very well to get that close to the river and only cost $15 in a fine.

At the end of the day you dint see the warning sign you don't speak or read Russian and you must of been the first people on motorbikes to have been stop like this
The army guys won't want all the shit and people above will ask the question how did you get so far as you did.


Did Jack say what his real job is ???





When Jak told them he was a pilot, their eyes did open wide, then explained commercial passenger planes and they calmed down. On the way out of town, they had then posted soldiers at the start of the restricted area!
 
A few photo's from the North Korean border railway bridge


The train's passenger manifest being handed over by Russian military to the North Koreans as the passenger train crosses the boundary into North Korea


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North Korean fugitive captured in Russian territory across the Tumen River


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Being handed back to North Korean authorities, I dread to think what happened to him


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North Koreans on the border railway bridge. Notice the 3 different widths of track for the conflict in gauge.


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Photo's: http://forum.pogranichnik.ru/index.php/gallery/image/10959-peredacha-ngg-khasanskii-pogo/
 
Some way,the new posts are being added to page one.
Did they give the list for you to keep n frame?
Glad they don't read this thread,or maybe just post a few days later?
those communists sure work together well ,doing one way prisoner exchanges or are they just being good neighbors to find that poor lost Korean and return him home?
 
About 10km north of Khasan (North Korea border) is a west turn towards the China border


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The train track that heads across the Tumen River into North Korea


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WE head down and there's another restricted border area sign, this time the border is with China


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Down the next west turn towards the China border and another border sign


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With just being arrested for being in the restricted border area we dont push our luck and head back north. Back to Kraskino and there's a sealed road that leads to the China border, we decide to see how far we can get down this one.


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Just 3km west we hit the restricted area sign, we're still over 20km from the Chinese border


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Looks like the really dont want us near the Chinese border, we call it a day and head north


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Back to the cool hotel in Krasinko, Rob has been trying to call us for 4 hours. Russian Army confiscated our phones, so we had no way of calling him until we got them back


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..
 
Kraskino - Vladivostok, the last day of riding and we will have achieved what we had started to plan nearly two years ago, 12,000 km ride on one of the most unusual motorcycle tours you could do in Asia and maybe the world.

This will be the easiest ride of the trip, just over 250km following the Sea of Japan.


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WE'll take it easy, last day, I have a square front wheel, Rob has a drive chain that would fit a tandem, lets finish this


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What a glorious day for the last day's ride


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We havnt had rain in a month now, blue skies most days. Approaching Vladivostok city, good data coverage, the phone navigates pretty well


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We hit the outskirts of Vladivostok & there's a complete change in driving etiquette. Now aggressive, speeding, forced lane changes etc....



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The M60 bridge across the bay that links you onto the Vladivostok peninsula



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....more to come
 
Still more to come Phil ??? are you back in CM yet ...... and a big thanks for [FONT=&quot]taking the time to post one more great RR from you.[/FONT]
 
Manage to get back from spaghetti junction and off the bridge in the end




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First thoughts of Vladivostok is that its beautiful, a lot of thought had gone into the building design'



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A bank


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Downtown


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The big bridge that links Russkiy Island in the background


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An old sailing ship anchored


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Outer bay, Vladivostok



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The next day we meet the the Russuan Customs broker who arranges the Russian Customs clearance and the bikes go in a container (no fuel), we'll see them again in Bangkok.


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We did it.
 
We wanted to see some of the Russian Naval Pacific Fleet, we managed to find someone who knew where we could see it


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Black Russian submarine's


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Camera accidentally went off



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Around the other side of the bay a better view but further away


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Submarines


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Lots of communication hardware


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At least 4 subs were here



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A famous WW II Russian submarine is on display by the waterfront


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Just a few valves inside


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Bulkhead hatches


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Periscope


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Gyro compass


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Water ballast tank level measurers

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Breaker



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Communication



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Mess


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Radio room



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Leader


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Forward compartment, bunks with the torpedo's


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Very cool vessel


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Beautiful old Russian warship close by


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Vladivostok Port


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Beautiful buildings


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The Trans-Siberian Railway that heads west to Moscow


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Memorial to all the Russian seafarers that were killed during WW II



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great ride and pics Phil! *last pic looks spicy.... :drib
 
That was amazing, Phil. Thanx for all the photos and the downloading. Good to see you got away from the big Russki and his Kalashnikov. Central China is obviously an amazing place, while Mongolia seemed harsh. Is that where Genghis Khan came from? Was this a one-off trip, or is going to be done again? (A mate of mine who came back said he heard this could be a tour? Or was he dreaming?)
 
Great video and pictures what a trip wel done safe riding
paul
 
The ship with the motorcycles in the container left Vladivostok, Russia around 11th September & arrived in Bangkok 28th September. Congestion in Bangkok harbor, the ship had to anchor for a few days, the bikes came out of the container in Bangkok 2nd October.



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Photo: Robert
 
Thanks for the big report, a very hard tour :DD but interessting to read and look the exotic countrys
 
Phil, I'm gobsmacked!!
You've ridden and posted some amazing trips over the years
and each subsequent trip seems to tops the previous one.

Thanks for your efforts and as always amazing and pictorial reports.

jay
 
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