Wat Phu Tok
After a good evening in Buengkan I set of early morning in search of Wat Phu Tok (coordinates N18.13272 E103.88135). Wat Phu Tok is also known as Wat Chetiya Khiri Wihan and in fact it was not really difficult to find as it is only about 40 km south-east of Buengkan and the temple can be reached by paved roads. What I did not know is that the area is a real water land with lots of lakes and reservoirs
Not sure if these palmoil trees will survive while standing in water
My first sight of Phu Tok on which the the temple is located. The rock can be see on the left side of the picture and probably formed part of the whole ridge extending to the north (right)
But first a bit of background info on Wat Phu Tok (source:
Wat Phu Tok : Website, Map & Magazine forum)
Wat Phu Tok is a sandstone outcrop that rises, impressively, 200 meters into the sky out of the surrounding plain. Access to the top is gained by climbing a series of wooden steps that have been driven into the side of the outcrop. However the construction of this stair way is not just simply to allow access to the summit it is also a physical representation of the Buddhist spiritual belief of the 7 steps to enlightenment. There are 6 wooden stages and the 7th. and final stage involves scrambling up the rocks to reach the reasonably flat surface of the summit.
The first three stages are a climb through the surrounding trees and are relatively easy although slippery if wet. The fourth level actually takes you through a passage within the rock to level five which ends in a cave containing images of Buddha. The caves floor is smooth and there is a wooden gallery at the front of the cave that offers a spectacular view over the plains below and of Laos in the distance. Also you can see a twin outcrop to the one you are climbing, but this one is uninhabited. In the gallery of level 5 there is also a glass case which contains the skeleton of a young man who is said to have died from cancer in his twenties and gifted his remains to the site to remind visitors of the impermanence of life. The final scramble over rocks takes you to the summit where it is possible to walk along overgrown paths through thick forests.
The site is currently home to about 50 monks who live there because the solitude and tranquility of the site aids their meditation. Monastic kùtì (meditation huts) are scattered around the mountain, in caves and on cliffs. So it is necessary to dress and act as if you were in a Temple, even when climbing and viewing. The site was created by the famous meditation master Ajahn Juan, a disciple of the fierce Ajahn Man who died in 1949.
Ajahn Juan left and Ajahn Man at the right - Copyright pictures of Ajahn Man and Ajahn Juan -
Forest Tradition | Vimutti Buddhist Monastery
Ajahn Juan saw the construction as a form of meditation. Tragically he died in a plane crash in 1980 along with several other highly revered forest monks who were flying to Bangkok for an individual's birthday celebration. In his honor an individual had a mausoleum built at the base of the site to commemorate Ajahn Juan's life and works. This mausoleum contains some of Ajahn Juan's possessions and bones.
By the way, foreigners are no longer allowed to stay overnight here, as one couple "acted improperly" and Wat Phu Tok is closed every year during the Thai New Year (Pii Mai) from 10-16 April probably to prevent drunk people falling down - or as someone on a forum said: Don't go when p!$$ed as it might become a scary place.
The mausoleum which contains some of Ajahn Juan's bones and possessions
Wat Phu Tok
Climbing the first three levels is relatively easy as there are wooden staircases which lead up the mountain till you reach level four which is a rocky outcrop with meditation kutis built along its sides. Actually you can bypass level 4 as there is a very steep staircase going up to level 5 with a short horizontal section but this is not for the faint-hearted.
The staircase to the left leads to Level 4 while the one to the right bypasses level 4 and this "junction" is signposted as "Easy" and "Difficult".
In fact there are quite a few different ways of going up to the next levels which is probably done to prevent that people get stuck on the mountain in case there are problems.
Several options on going up or down the rock
Problems do happen from time to time - here a falling rock has destroyed a small staircase going up to one of the kutis
Meditation kutis at level 4
Lots of bee-hives sticking to the rock at level 4
Views from Level 4
Staircase from level 3 to Level 5 with a short intermediate horizontal part clinging to the rock
To go to Level 5 from Level 4 you go through a natural passage through the rocks (picture copyright Jeremy Holton)
Once at Level 5 you reach Wat Phu Tok which is located inside a kind of cave in the rock
Inside the cave there is a skeleton inside a glass case
A picture of Ajahn Juan at the temple in the cave on Level 5
Stairs going up from Level 5 to Level 6. I did not make it up to Level 6 as my lungs just could not take it any more as I have chronic bronchitis which has drastically reduced the capacity of my lungs.
I did make it though to the Kuti on a rock outcrop at level 5 but once there, I went back down which took about 20 minutes while going up to level 5 did take me just under an hour.
Just some random pictures of Wat Phu Tok - Meditation kuti at the top of a rocky outcrop at Level 5 and the walkways at level 5 and level 6
Pictures copyright Graham Taylor / Udon Map
